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What I Have Been Up To Lately


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Here are a couple pics of a project I have been working on. I have been interested in moving to a lattice bracing config from my double X. I think the lattice is kinda complex to work out, but it seems to be tightening up the mids as I am looking for. Anyhow here is a pic or two.

DSC_0015.jpg

pic2

pic3

pic4

pic5

Peace,Rich

Sweet looking Rich,

BTW how are you going to approach the bridge plate or is the lattice supporting that as well?

Mike

Edited by MiKro
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Mike,

My bridge plates are very thin and sometimes I don't even use one(if I apply a coat of shellac). I don't need a bridge plate structurally with my bridge, that really only leaves the issue of shrinkage rates between the bridge wood and soundboard. My bridge design is pretty different than most, and it really changes the bracing requirements.

Peace,Rich

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Wow, thats really coming out well Rich. That inlay just blows me away, aside from being an amazing design of shell, the practically flawless inlay job is amazing. The partial overlapping of the design into the sound hole is awesome and to really seal the deal, that zircote is beautiful, I love the flecking at the bottom side edges, gives a cool effect.

What are the plans for the binding? Are you adding any more shell to the top in the purfling? I'm excited to see this thing all finished and I bet moms is too. Keep us posted on the progress and best of luck, its really looking amazing. J

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carousel182, I have been doing this for a while (about long enough to realise how much I don't know). You will figure out the radius thing, as soon as you start working on the bracing and sand the rim it will all make perfect sense :D .

Jason, I am going for Lyptus binding with BWB lower purf, and will have shell purf around the board as well. Rose vine up the fretboard and a rose on the headstock. A lot of shell, but that is what my mom likes.

Erik, Crackwood bends like butter. It splits like no other though. To ensure I had prevented any factures that I could not detect, I saturated the wood in CA (that is something we do outside :D ), and believe me there where little fractures I did not see. Then I surface sanded all the parts. The tape is binding tape soaked with HHG and placed about the sides to prevent or limit any potential crack migration. I figure this is a wood that you want to take no chances with if you want it to last.

Mattia, Thanks my friend. I checked with David to see what he was using for his flying buttress reinforcements, and will be adding those before I close the box. Rims are going to be very rigid on this one.

Lance, Thanks mister! Man, we should keep in touch more often. how have been?

Peace,Rich

P.S. I should point out that, I still have several little things I need to add before closing the box. Even that extra bit at the sounhole needs a little extra backing. I will post up a shot before I actually close it up.

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That would be cool Dan! If I make a trip your direction I will remember to toss it in the back of the car. As far as the bracing dims. Starting with the top thickness, it is right at .100", The main X braces are 1/4" wide and 1/2" tall at the main X crossing. The Lattice is all 3/16" at the point of attachment and tapered as it gets taller, fingers are similar. The heights of the lattice vary quite a bit, I don't believe any of it is more than 3/16" at a peak, same with fingers. The only braces that are inlet are at the tips of the upper X braces, everything else tapers to nothing or a wisper of a brace. When I first attached the bracing my main X crossing was at 5/8", the lattice and fingers were at about 1/4". I carved from there till the board loosened up and had balance, then made a few more adjustments after attaching it to the rim. I will probably check and make any final adjustments right before I close the box.

Peace,Rich

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I just love the inlay work, nice job.

I am wondering about the lack of a bridge plate also. Do you use bridge pins or some other method to hold your stings down to the soundboard?

I am not super sharp with the inlay, but I try to take it slow and do the best I can. As far as my bridge, it is a pinnless design.

Drak,

Thanks mister, hopefully I won't give the WOD a reason to start giggle :D . Slow and steady, slow and steady :D

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Rich, I don't know squat about building acoutics, and not much about building electrics. But, I have always had a decent sense of aesthetics i.e. I know what I like. And I like this guitar very much. Form and function I suspect.

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Rich, that is one sweet guitar.I know mom will love it.One day I mite try to build a acoustic,I have a billit of spuce just waiting to be used.Your bracing is cool and I like the way it covers all areas,really solid.Looking forward to seeing your bridge system.I think you've done this for a little while. :D

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  • 1 month later...

any progress on this baby? I'm really interested in seeing how this turns out. I've seen a couple of lattice designs like this but not as pronounced.. How'd the thought come about using this (lattice bracing) rather than beefing up the lower face braces? Interesting carving on your x-brace..

L8er

Scab

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I haven't updated in a while mainly because I have been busy and have not made much progress. Usually I spend a fair bit of time building over my Christmas break, this year I spent more time with the family. Here are a few pics. The box is closed, I have attached the binding, but have not scraped it clean. The neck is waiting for me to finish the inlay in the fret board, I don't finish my carving till after I attach the board. I was hoping to make headway after my break, but work has been getting busy, and time is really hit and miss.

The Back

DSC_0001.jpg

Front of Box

End (sorry it is not cleaned up)

Back of headstock

Front of headstock (I am pretty happy with the inlay)

Scab,

The Lattice interested me mainly because I wanted to see what I could do with it to focus my mids and also give me a little broader footprint with my braces. My braces may appear to cover a lot of ground, but much of what you are seeing is paper thin transitions. It took a bit of doing to get a nice even responce, but it got there. After I had the top attached it took a couple very small adjustments and it came back where I wanted it. Now that it is closed I am very excited (I think it has the best tapped responce I have ever built), and can't wait to hear it strung up. The odd carve is something that came about from my experience with my bridge design (it is a wrap around with a forward tail piece *oddest duck around LOL).

Peace,Rich

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:D

As per usual, just amazing work! As a whole that is going to be such an impressive guitar. The further I get along in my own work, the more and more I can appreciate the work of others. You guys always build such wicked guitars and they turn out so well, one might think building is easy. For example your back strap, wheew not that easy of a task in my opinion(when you have a volute), especially considering the thickness you have there in ebony. What was the thickness on that backstrap 2mm? Anyhow, it is truly impressive Rich. Are you going straight FP all around for this one? I think thats what you prefer for finish right? If so, what flavor of shellac do you prefer(color)? Well, best wishes and keep those pics rolling in. J

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Thanks Jason, You must be one of the nicest fellows around (always have nice comments). I can't remember specifically, but I believe the backstrap was close to .07" ( about 2mm). I probably will Zpoxy then French polish (I enjoy that process more than spraying), but if I am finding it very hard to get a good window of time I will spray laquer. I like the hint of warmth you get with very pale shellac. I generally try to buy the clearest I can get (if I want more color I can add a bit to tint). To me FP is very relaxing, because it is absolutely the most forgiving finish you can apply. If it goes south you can remove most of it or lightly sand and melt new shellac right ove the area (good as new).

Peace,Rich

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