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PRS Single cutaway (or Tremonti)


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there is nothing wrong with a set neck...a les paul has less sustain and tone transfer because of a poor fit in the neck pocket,NOT the glue.i say this all the time .an alphetic resin(titebond) glue joint ,done properly,has almost NO glue in it.most of it sqeezes out during clamping if the fit is right.a deep set tenon actually has more glued surface than a set neck.it just has a larger mating surface for tone transfer.

this type of glue creates a bond,not a large glue line.epoxy,on the other hand requires a larger glue line,which imo will cut down on tone transfer.so use titebond or an equivilent and make a snug fit and all will be well.

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there is nothing wrong with a set neck...a les paul has less sustain and tone transfer because of a poor fit in the neck pocket,NOT the glue.i say this all the time .an alphetic resin(titebond) glue joint ,done properly,has almost NO glue in it.most of it sqeezes out during clamping if the fit is right.a deep set tenon actually has more glued surface than a set neck.it just has a larger mating surface for tone transfer.

this type of glue creates a bond,not a large glue line.epoxy,on the other hand requires a larger glue line,which imo will cut down on tone transfer.so use titebond or an equivilent and make a snug fit and all will be well.

Standing Ovation!!!!!

Well Said Sir.

I hate it when people blame bad sustain on a certain method of building. when done right, any method will give good sustain. Bolt on, set neck,deep set tennon, neck thru will all sustain very well if the tolerances are kept to a minimum at the neck joint. Gibsons sound bad because the tolerances are very loose in the neck joint.

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While 'on paper', the deep-set tenon neck looks to be a superior transfer device (and for all I know it probably is) I wholeheartedly agree with Wes and Scott, and I'll take it one step further than that...

My '73 LPC has as much sustain as -anyone- could ask for. I mean, past a certain decent point of sustain, what does any more really matter???

And I build nothing but bolt-ons myself, and I'd love to hear someone tell me any of my guitars lack in the sustain dept. I usually build the pocket so tight you have to work the neck out slowly and carefully, else you chip off some paint around the edges. Every one of my hand-builts has a very very tight neck pocket. I don't think mine suffer any in the 'transfer' dept.

My bottom-line acid test is the 10th row rule:

If you couldn't hear the difference with a full band playing from the 10th row, it probably ain't worth the extra trouble...Just me...

And personally, I don't even really 'shoot for' major sustain, I just build 'em as best I can using common sense and experience, and let the chips fall where they may, sustain-wise, tone-wise, resonance-wise, etc...

I think there are so many interactive elements going on in a guitar, it's actually very hard to pull just one element out and say this one is better than that one because of just one element.

Chambering a body (usually) reduces sustain a bit, as the hollowness eats up some of the transfer, but, isn't that what your shooting for to begin with? A slightly 'hollowness' to the tone? So aren't you purposely sacrificing a bit of sustain to gain more in the 'overall tone' dept.?

So if someone dogged that guitar in the sustain dept., it might well have a richer, superior tone in the end than another with 'endless sustain'?

I really think a lot of this stuff gets put under a microscope too often to really matter much in the end... :D

PS, an old friend of mine had a vintage solidbody Rickenbacker guitar.

That thing had endless sustain (solid Maple body) but was severly lacking in the 'tone' dept. It was pretty lifeless, but with (Hey!) great sustain...

AFAIC, if it's built *well*, any 'normal' neck mounting method will work just fine for sustain.

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My bottom-line acid test is the 10th row rule:

If you couldn't hear the difference with a full band playing from the 10th row, it probably ain't worth the extra trouble...Just me...

And personally, I don't even really 'shoot for' major sustain, I just build 'em as best I can using common sense and experience, and let the chips fall where they may, sustain-wise, tone-wise, resonance-wise, etc...

i don't really agree with the 10th row rule there :D but for me tone is more of a personal thing, i'm a solo player and i just play along with a backing track cd thru the PA system, so the only thing i'm really "feeling" tone wise is the sound in my hand gets on a certain fingerboard, and on my chest/stomach (body), along with what my amp produces, althought to me woods sound so unbeleivably different, some spectators ya play for or people new to playing can't really notice any tonal differences especially distorted, it's something u almost have to try and listen for to notice, or just notice over time. Course i'm always the last one to catch on to things so maybe it's just me.

on the other hand i like to agree with drak, it's a guitar, not a percision built satelite from nasa, althought it does have to be built well in order to sound good, spending overly amounts of time worying about gaining 10ms more sustain for a chord is kinda foolish.. plus diversity is fun and sometimes delightlfully suprising B)

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You can get a blue print from Stewey-Mac's for a 50's LP:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/P...uitar_Plan.html

This is the plan I'll be using for my guitar. It should be in the mail now -- I'll let you know how it is when it gets here. I'd also recommend going down to your local book shop to get any book that might show the wiring and bridge assembly in a bit more detail. I scored a Gibson LP repair book at a yard sale for $5.

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as far as the neck joint thing, build the thing good anyway, it takes no more time to build it perfect than it does to build it sloppy. and in the end you will be proud of what you build and not curse yourself out for being impatient and just slapping it together. "its a guitar not a nasa satalite" i take great offense to this comment derek because a guitar is way better than any sattalite nasa builds! music is what the world revolves around not no stupid satalite! and besides nasa is just another avenue that the government launders our tax money!

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This best example in the pictures you posted is the teal one in this picture:

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/...9/417925_20.jpg

It's also in the brown one below, but more obvious in the teal. Contoured heel is when the cutaway is sanded down a bit... Allows better access to the higher frets. Maybe countoured heel isn't the right word for it..

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Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

They all have it. Even the Tremonti has it...just harder to see in pics.

Speaking of the tremonti, the girls at the front counter that think Im cute let me trace a tremonti body (not the SE) with a sharpie!...I'll find a way to post a template....

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