maikman Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Amazing build, the scalloping is just awesome, and to add to the last two replies, I've imbibed a little too much also, haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Dude, some of us are making extra comments to give Perry the 'buffer' post he needs. Chill out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Pro, take your propaganda elsewhere. Thanks mate. Body and neck, 3lbs 14oz. I guess you could call that light weight. Wez, the shape this guitar was supposed to be was very similar to the one you just showed. I was going to use the shape for the next one (finally building a guitar for me!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 That's quite the target weight to shoot for! Very impressive. And I thought my V was something to smile about at just under 5lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 (edited) Pro, take your propaganda elsewhere. Thanks mate. Oops. Sorry about that Perry....i'm not even sure where I was going with that one! It must have been the magical pear cider fairies. Edited May 24, 2008 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Wez, the shape this guitar was supposed to be was very similar to the one you just showed. I was going to use the shape for the next one (finally building a guitar for me!). and i thought i was being original!! the original design brief was warmoth Z meets SG and thats how it came out after a few ugly sketches that really didnt work.. I'm going to have to get a picture of it on the scales when its a bit further along... it wont be less than 4lbs since it mainly consists of bubinga, wenge and maple anyway, thanks for taking the time to do all the videos... its a great learning resource. You should consider doing some instructional ones to sell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 That's quite the target weight to shoot for! Very impressive. And I thought my V was something to smile about at just under 5lbs Of course, the guitar and neck were weighed before the control cavities were cut, so take a small amount off for that. If you listen to most people, they'll say it wont sustain because its too light weight... Recessed control knobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 anyway, thanks for taking the time to do all the videos... its a great learning resource. You should consider doing some instructional ones to sell They'll be included with the book, when its done. If all goes to plan, there will be a major announcement soon (not the book, something else). We are going to 'chop' things up a bit some Wenge, thicknessed down for the tops and guts of the humbucker bobbins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Obligatory buffer post I wish my lumber place carried wenge. It's such a pretty wood, I'd love to work with it. The grain patterns you got when you carved out the neck were killer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Great stuff Perry! You actually ask your customers what they want in guitars and build what they are asking for, what a strange approach to designing guitars . A really stiff neck and light weight body How could that have any sustain Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Right on Rich. I speak to many "custom" guitar makers that only build bolt-on neck strats, in particular colours. Whats custom about it, well, nothing... What a boring job Control rout. Cut a little large to reduce body weight, and allow for possible inbuilt wireless system later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 buffer post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Right on Rich. I speak to many "custom" guitar makers that only build bolt-on neck strats, in particular colours. Whats custom about it, well, nothing... What a boring job Surely customs take so much more time to make than "standards"? In that respect, those builders are perhaps in a different bracket? Fender did a great job of making boring instruments with no custom options, plus they all look the same on a black and white TV :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I have a guitar in the workshop right now, in for a snapped headstock. Its an Epiphone CUSTOMSHOP Silver burst. Customshop Epiphone? I mean, seriously.... Recessed knobs. I see a lot of people recommending grain filler on every guitar. The white you see here is the only grain filler i used (but i did use primer later), to make it easier to get a nice smooth recess for the knobs. To bring us up to speed with the videos... Here is the YouTube video Here is the YouTube video Be sure to subscribe to the YouTube videos. I have many more coming in the future, and i wont always be posting up links to them. Some will also only be up for a few days, and deleted, to get comments and reactions. You never know what you'll miss out on. Subscribe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 perry would u mind if i barrowed your scallop idea for a guitar im making for myself, sorry hijack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I have a guitar in the workshop right now, in for a snapped headstock. Its an Epiphone CUSTOMSHOP Silver burst. Customshop Epiphone? I mean, seriously.... Recessed knobs. I see a lot of people recommending grain filler on every guitar. The white you see here is the only grain filler i used (but i did use primer later), to make it easier to get a nice smooth recess for the knobs. I wonder if the reason it is a custom shop is because it's a silverburst. I didn't think Epis did silver. shrug. In any case, it's pretty amusing. I see what you mean about the grain filler. Some of the curves on my V are so porous (combination of the angled bevels and endgrain) that they singlehandedly would have convinced me to grain fill it. But why not do a grain filler anyways if you're doing an opaque finish, if only for extra security? I mean, maybe not on that alder, because it is so even, but on others. I might dig out my youtube password if it means the possibility of semi-exclusive videos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 perry would u mind if i barrowed your scallop idea for a guitar im making for myself, sorry hijack I would rather you didnt, but im not going to stop you. Setting the neck. I remember seeing recently a guy who had a couple necks being glued in. He had string run through the machinehead holes and down to the body, so he could check the alignment of the neck while it was being clamped. How sloppy are the neck joints if you can twist the neck in the pocket to 'get it all straight'. Ouch. Make them tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I wonder if the reason it is a custom shop is because it's a silverburst. I didn't think Epis did silver. shrug. In any case, it's pretty amusing. I see what you mean about the grain filler. Some of the curves on my V are so porous (combination of the angled bevels and endgrain) that they singlehandedly would have convinced me to grain fill it. But why not do a grain filler anyways if you're doing an opaque finish, if only for extra security? I mean, maybe not on that alder, because it is so even, but on others. I saw a recent thread where someone recommended (over alder and poplar) to sand to 400grit, then grain fill (alder and poplar dont need grain fillers), then shellac (why?), then stain (stain doesnt absorb through shellac), then sand back (removing both the stain and the shellac), restain (which will be blotchy because of the soaked in shellac), sanding sealer (with IS a grain filler), lacquer. What an amazing waste of time. Of course, this is for a clear finish, but still... One coat of primer, no grain filler. One grey guide coat. One thin coat of primer. One black grain coat. Watch the video to see why i use the grey/black guide coats (90% thinners, 10% paint, 20% of normaly coverage = thin thin thin) Watch the YouTube video < covers the sanding and paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 How much do you pay for all that air you use blowing the debris away from the guitar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 There is so much hot air in our factory, its free. After primer, comes Arctic White base coat. Two ultra thin coats, just enough to provide coverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Very nice work Perry! I always enjoying seeing what new concepts and creative ideas you can think up. Whether using crumbled MOP for wicked lightning inlays or your new scallop concept, always a treat to see. Keep those pics coming! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Candy Pearl White over the Arctic White. Two ultra thin (almost dry) coats. I dust on the pearl, rather than put wet coats on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I saw a recent thread where someone recommended (over alder and poplar) to sand to 400grit, then grain fill (alder and poplar dont need grain fillers), then shellac (why?), then stain (stain doesnt absorb through shellac), then sand back (removing both the stain and the shellac), restain (which will be blotchy because of the soaked in shellac), sanding sealer (with IS a grain filler), lacquer. What an amazing waste of time. Of course, this is for a clear finish, but still... Was that the one on an Australian woodworking forum that started out asking what his B.C.Rich Gunslinger was made of? If so, I saw that one too. For your amusement: Sand down from 120,180,240,320 until it is completely blemish free Apply shellac (weak) to raise the grain can be wiped on generously Sand with 320. make sure you sand all shellac if you want to stain Stain with a dark tint (to enhance the grain lines). Sand back until only the grain lines have a hint of stain Stain again with your chosen "honey colour" Apply shellac Apply grainfiller (tinted to suit stained timber) Sand grainfiller back Apply grainfiller again Sand grainfiller back Apply Shellac Apply sanding sealer/base Apply topcoats Sand and buff This was the suggestion for a poplar or alder body. Use shellac to raise the grain, then sand it all off? Uh.... NO. Grainfill after staining? Shellac (sealer), then sanding sealer on top of that? This, my friends, is why y'all told me I HAD to buy Flexner's book, which I did. For that, you have by gratitude. There's way too much finishing misinformation floating around out there. Finishing isn't really that hard - it's just time consuming and easy to get monkeyed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 I saw a recent thread where someone recommended (over alder and poplar) to sand to 400grit, then grain fill (alder and poplar dont need grain fillers), then shellac (why?), then stain (stain doesnt absorb through shellac), then sand back (removing both the stain and the shellac), restain (which will be blotchy because of the soaked in shellac), sanding sealer (with IS a grain filler), lacquer. What an amazing waste of time. Of course, this is for a clear finish, but still... Was that the one on an Australian woodworking forum that started out asking what his B.C.Rich Gunslinger was made of? If so, I saw that one too. For your amusement: Sand down from 120,180,240,320 until it is completely blemish free Apply shellac (weak) to raise the grain can be wiped on generously Sand with 320. make sure you sand all shellac if you want to stain Stain with a dark tint (to enhance the grain lines). Sand back until only the grain lines have a hint of stain Stain again with your chosen "honey colour" Apply shellac Apply grainfiller (tinted to suit stained timber) Sand grainfiller back Apply grainfiller again Sand grainfiller back Apply Shellac Apply sanding sealer/base Apply topcoats Sand and buff This was the suggestion for a poplar or alder body. Use shellac to raise the grain, then sand it all off? Uh.... NO. Grainfill after staining? Shellac (sealer), then sanding sealer on top of that? This, my friends, is why y'all told me I HAD to buy Flexner's book, which I did. For that, you have by gratitude. There's way too much finishing misinformation floating around out there. Finishing isn't really that hard - it's just time consuming and easy to get monkeyed up. Exactly. This whole finishing thing is much easier if you want it to be. Ive never used shellac. I very rarely grain fill. Ive never stained black and sanded back. And i can assure you no guitar factory ever does either. For the record, this finish, from final timber sanding up and applying the primer, to buffing, took 5 days. Clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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