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New inlay material


Hotrock

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I've just found a new material for inlays that is going to look the absolute business on my new guitar. B)

Not telling any of you what it is though :D:D:DB)B)

How much you want to bet it's already been used?

Why post something like that and then not even say what it is? This is a forum to help people dude, it's like if you posted asking a question and somebody said "I know the answer, but I'm not telling you"

Lame :D

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Yeeks! B)

No, I didn't start the thread and don's know what rsera is talking about but

I don't cut inlays (something to work on for the next project...). I just thought that it was quite useless for that hotrod/hotrock/whatever guy/girl to post that without telling people what it was. I guess he just doesn't get that this place is about helping each other out.

Sorry if I pissed some people off :D

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Yeeks!  :D

No, I didn't start the thread and don's know what rsera is talking about but

I don't cut inlays (something to work on for the next project...).  I just thought that it was quite useless for that hotrod/hotrock/whatever guy/girl to post that without telling people what it was.  I guess he just doesn't get that this place is about helping each other out.

Sorry if I pissed some people off :D

lgm guitars is also named jeremy... B)

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My guess it's this stuff... :D

Inlay sticker

Tried the dots and they stick up too high. When bending I always felt them and sometimes the string would ride underneath them and move them around. Good idea, but if you bend alot it might not be adventageous to use the dots. I am not sure about the larger pieces. But, there is still the possibility of catching a sring on them>

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Chill out guys, of course I'm gonna tell you all what it is. Just teasing.

I was going to wait until the samples came through the post and give them a test before I let anyone else waste their time or money. BUT, as you lot obviously think I'm a dickhead - it's a material called Dichroic Glass and is very hard when fired. The dichroic coating is on the back so will not rub off. Providing the fired glass will not wear down with the strings and the back of the inlay is painted black it should look the absolute business (I got my girlfriend some dichroic glass jewllery for her birthday which got me in her good books).

There you go then, now you know and you can go and spend money you haven't got trying something new.

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Nobody was trying to be a jerk, but your first post could have been made a lot more diplomatically by saying,

I've found this new material that I think will work for inlay called Dichroic glass, I'm going to experiment with it and will let you know how it works.

Explain what it is, what it looks like, etc. Discussion on a new material is wonderful, but when it becomes a top secret post like that it's irritating, specifically on a site where so many people go out of their way to help others out. for all you know somebody on here has experimented with this Dichoic glass in inlay already.

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it's a material called Dichroic Glass and is very hard when fired.  The dichroic coating is on the back so will not rub off.  Providing the fired glass will not wear down with the strings and the back of the inlay is painted black it should look the absolute business.

I have been a lighting designer for nearly 15 years. I have worked with Dichroics for most of it. I can tell you first hand that it will scratch (quite easily in fact). I would also recommend that if you want to get the most out of it you should put a light source behind it... like a white LED. Then it will change color depending on where you stand. Panting the back black will basically make the glass look black. You could get the same effect with any glass if that is your intention

The basic principal of the Dichroic filter that is fired onto the glass is that it deflects all other wavelengths of light.

So in essence...

If you have Dichroic glass that is rated at 525 nanometers (which is red by the way) and you shoot a full spectrum light (white) at it, every other color other than 525nm will be reflected back away from the glass while allowing the one chosen wavelength to pass through.

People that design Dichroic lighting fixtures usually use a reflector kit behind the light source so that all bounced back light from the Dichroic filter gets re-used. This makes the light appear to be brighter.

Back to the color changing aspect...

Since Dichroic glass only allows one wavelength to pass though when you look at the glass from different angles you can see other colors of the spectrum on the surface of the glass even though the light emanating is only one color.

Here is a chart to know what nanometer to choose for custom colors:

http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/java/po...ght/michellevy/

Good luck! :D

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General purpose polyester lay-up resin.

( from 1kg)

Lay-up/laminating resin, thixotropic, pre-accelerated, Used for laminating glass fibre, also for impregnation of timber in boats and roof sheathings, this most commonly used resin lends itself to 1000s of repair and construction applications e.g.: roofs, boats, cars, canoes, surf boards, fishing boxes, trays, etc

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Clear resin

Anybody think this stuff would work to just route out your inlay and then fill in with the clear or tinted stuff? Seems like it would cut a lot of work out of vines and pyramids if it dries clear.

There are a couple problems with using plain resin.

1. When you use pure resin your routes have to be perfect or of course your inlay will look jagged.

2. Pure resin typically develops bubbles when mixed, these can be alleviated by heating the resin with a hair drier or something but this makes problem number 3 even more dramatic.

3. The resin will not stand up above it's natural level same as water, but it will cling to the sides of the inlay route due to surface tension creating the wet appearance of being full, however, as it dries, you will see that there is actually a dish, if you warm the resin as in problem 2, it becomes even more runny and will sink even more.

4. 99% of resins shrink a little as they cure, this means you will have to add more resin.

5. VERY few resins actually dry clear, or stay clear over time, most epoxies will yellow over time even if they dry clear.

6. Using a paper pattern under the resin for your inlay coloring and image is difficult for a couple reasons. first the resin often will cause the ink to run or smear. Secondly, the resin will saturate any part of the paper that is not sealed or is left exposed and darken it. Third, if you heat your resin the paper will actually try to float to the top

How do I know this? well, I tried experimenting with different resins and the ONLY one that stays clear and bubble free is casting resin, but it is to thin to build up something like the fretboard radius with.

Oh yeah, one other thing, all component resins heat up when they cure, if you are using thin plastics or paper underneath, the heat can also be damaging to the inlay.

There is alot of reasons why these methods aren't in use today, they've been tried, but usually, if something seems to good to be true, it typically is.

Jeremy

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Panting the back black will basically make the glass look black. You could get the same effect with any glass if that is your intention

Cheers funkdefino,

I was just going on what the bloke on the other end of the phone said. I was hoping to fire it like the dichroic they use in jewellery, which he said is harder.

BUT, I bow down to your superior knowledge and trust that it won't work (might keep it in mind for a headstock inlay though).

Sorry if I knicked the jam out of anyones donut with the first post, really wasn't my intention. (Or the second for that matter, had a really bad morning and fired up the net to be called a jerk, got on my goat a bit - sorry my bad) :D

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