Woodenspoke Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 A while back I did a review on several Fingerboard leveling bars I owned, These were bought ready to go. Afterward I realized that having a real long massive bar may have its uses. But no one makes one. 24" bars are expensive and still the bar will not hang over the edge of a 36" bass scale fingerboard. The object is to have paper sanding on the fingerboard at all times without coming off the fingerboard. That was my goal. The material I choose was a 1" x 2" x 36",1/8" thick steel bar. This is what Stumac uses for its leveling bars. The weight is enough to not have to add additional pressure to the stroke when you use it. You can also buy aluminum of the same dimensions but get a thicker walled tube. This is easier to work but probably more expensive. Also may be too light for the job without adding some weight to the center of the bar. This is a cutoff from my 36" bar. This bar had a ding in the end as you can see above. This ding is enough to warp the 1" edges so I had to cut it off using a mini grinder and a cutoff blade. I could have also used a hack saw. My bar weighs 6 Lbs exactly at 35", a heavy sucker. The bar also came with a nasty black coating for rust protection and it was easier to sand it off rather than try to strip it. After sanding and grinding off the coating on my belt sander using a Zirconia belt (blue belt) I was ready to level the edges. Now you can try doing this with just a file but it is not as easy. I used a piece of 1/4" glass (tempered shelving from a store) 48" long with some 60 grit peel and stick paper attached. Make sure you do this on a flat surface. Mark both edges with a colored grease pencil so as you sand you can clearly see the high and low spots as you work, A rough cut file will help remove the high spots as you work or any abrasive material. You want to try an just move the bar across the sand paper do not add additional pressure. The bar should be heavy enough to allow the sandpaper to cut using its own weight. When you believe you are close, all the grease pencil marks are sanded off its time to take out your reference straight edge and start checking for any high spots. If you don't have a reference straight edge get one. The finished bar next to a 18" leveling bar. This project does take some time so don't expect to make it work in only a few hours. Plan on several sessions over several days as premature giving up on the leveling of both 1" edges is a no no. They must be flat or you have wasted your time. Also remember to remove any sharp metal from the edges and round off the ends so the level doesn't gouge up any wood. Of course this procedure can also be applied to smaller bars as well. Also taking the bar to a local metal shop who has a surface grinder will make it a much easier process (but not as fun). But it does add to the cost. However you cannot find a 36" fingerboard/fret leveling bar sold commercially. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Your patience and your bench amaze me, Spoke. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 Your patience and your bench amaze me, Spoke. :-D The bench was actually one of my first woodworking projects. You have to start somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 I'm of the opinion that if you can't make yourself a bench then I guess you have to seriously consider taking up knitting or line dancing. I haven't made myself a bench yet, but I did make myself some natty furniture for the music room :-D Back on topic - what was the approximate cost from a machine shop for grinding the faces flat, for reference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Back on topic - what was the approximate cost from a machine shop for grinding the faces flat, for reference? I have no idea since I didnt use one. Maybe someone who has access or has used a shop can quote costs as I am curious as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 I would get more use out of a long radiused bar, although it would be outside of the scope of this article. Perhaps a req, Spoke? :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) Stu (Oztradie) had a great tutorial to get a radiused bar (wood, not metal) as long as you want with a Safe-T-Planer. It works brilliantly. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=25182&hl= Edited February 18, 2009 by brian d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Yeah, i've seen that but an ellipse is not a true section of a circle although it's close enough in most instances if you can adjust out the eccentricity. Anyway - i'm sure that's been discussed well enough on that thread and elsewhere on this board :-D Back on topic. Apologies WS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 I would get more use out of a long radiused bar, although it would be outside of the scope of this article. Perhaps a req, Spoke? :-D I got it; a PlayDought extruder with a custom radius die and then use Autobody filler as the extrusion material (Bondo). LOL Hey it many work?? I will have to look into using a table saw with blades the same size as the radius. I can always chuck a 12" blade on my 10" saw, use a 5/8 to 1" adapter, and feed the stock at 90deg. Its the larger sizes that may be a problem 14" and 16". A 7.5" blade should fit. Wow I got it. The how long can I make a radius block contest. For an on topic discussion I looked up the aluminum stock for this project and it only comes in a 1/8" walled rectangle. Not sure on the weight of that solution. The aluminum was actually cheaper than the steel on onlinemetals.com by a few dollars. So I was incorrect. I did notice aluminum I beams but they were very wide and would need to be cut down. But they looked like a cool looking solution. As far as wood goes on this project I would rate that at easy and quick but the wood will never stay accurate. I gota go set up my tableaw. Radius blocks, radius blocks Hummm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Aluminum would be far superior...steel has that nasty habit of rusting every time you polish it...and you can't oil it because of the wood you are using it on. But maybe I just hate steel because I work it for a living... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 steel has that nasty habit of rusting every time you polish it...and you can't oil it because of the wood you are using it on. Rust is one of the main reasons I decided to bond 1/4" thick glass on mine. I wanted to make the damn things and be done with it (no annoying rust removal later on, etc. Plus the glass surface is so easy to clean and I can tell right away if there's some unwanted debris stuck on the glass. Believe it or not, I got the metal tube for that leveler off of this. My neighbors just don't realize what an idustrial supply they end up being for me. haha When I ran out of metal from that gate, I then used metal tube legs off a glass topped coffee table I ended up breaking by "accident". Nice to have a bunch for different grits. 19" is the longest I've made any and the 1" x 1" hollow steel seems plenty strong for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 steel has that nasty habit of rusting every time you polish it I was thinking about that very thing when I finished. The beam already has my greasy fingerprints all over it. I was contemplating spraying the sides with a quick drying enamel. Maybe fire engine red or high vis Yellow so I can find it. Oh, and drill a hole so I can hang it where I cant find it. Then Ill just add sand paper and leave it on to keep the edges from rusting. The other thing is I moved to Colorado so moisture and rust is less of an issue in my new shop. Just harder to breathe (altitude). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Rust Proofing OK So I couldn't bring myself to buy a red can of spray paint. I chickened out at the last minute. I kept looking at the gold. Matches the guitar I always wanted. The Rustoleum paint cost $8 in the new space age spray can, had to try it. I still have enough left over to ruin a guitar finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I will have to look into using a table saw with blades the same size as the radius. I can always chuck a 12" blade on my 10" saw Errr - that would work if you wanted a 6" radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I was thinking about making a convex sled for my radiusing jig, for making radiused sanding blocks... someone mentioned the idea a few months back and I thought it was a great idea. Here's the radiusing jig as-is, with a concave sled built for radiusing fretboards: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Just an idea, could you use a section of 12" id PVC Pipe and mount it on some wood to keep it stiff?. Schedule 80 (the black stuff, not schedule 40 the white stuff) is fairly stiff and strong. The id is actualy 11.38. I don't know if the difference is to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 But finding true straight and radiused pipe is a nightmare. Pipe is never perfectly round, nor perfectly flat. I have to deal with that issue atleast 3 times a week. If we a puting pipe throug a piece of plate you have to cut the hole at least 1/16" big and then it still needs grinding some times. The tolerances are just not there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 But finding true straight and radiused pipe is a nightmare. Pipe is never perfectly round, nor perfectly flat. I have to deal with that issue atleast 3 times a week. If we a puting pipe throug a piece of plate you have to cut the hole at least 1/16" big and then it still needs grinding some times. The tolerances are just not there. I got it a 12" iron pipe cut into 3" strips. Just sand for two weeks and add a handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Don't ignore what Erik said...a 12" diameter pipe would make a 6" radius...unless I am missing something...which I sometimes do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Don't ignore what Erik said...a 12" diameter pipe would make a 6" radius...unless I am missing something...which I sometimes do.. Yep got caught up in the nonsense radius not diameter , Uh duh. A 24" pipe. Not something youll find in your Big Box harware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Believe me, i;ve seen suitable drumw which are candadaites aroubnd Licoln for tap-ing paper to and making radiusd vars from. Oh pooo....beer etc 680mm is as good as super alat. Oh, i'll go anway noiw. Find a big boiler or gass tank!! Poop. Apologies tomroow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Allow me to translate! (I speak drunkish, albeit with an American accent.) "Right! Use a water heater tank--tape some sandpaper to it, sand away, and you'll have your radius sanding block." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Many thanks Rick. Those nightschools in learning drunkish are paying off nicely now. I don't think my wife would appreciate me taking all the insulation off the copper water boiler tank just to make a radiusing bar unfortunately. That and water barrels aren't all straight along the sides :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 No problem, just having a little fun. What was that bit about 680mm though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 I'm pretty sure I once took my radius gauges and found my hot water tank at home to have a 10" radius. But right now, I'm staying at an enormous house that has water heaters (yes, 2 of 'em) that appear to be 24" across, which would put a 12" radius on the outside. Guess I should have brought some sandpaper and wood blocks, but that would take away from time spent raiding their well stocked Liquor cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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