avengers63 Posted June 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 Wow, I can picture 3 custom bloodwood pkp covers cut and oriented from the same bloodwood top like Myka does it, surrounded by a custom made 1-piece black bezel, that would look SA-MOKIN! ...Or, maybe a custom made wooden cover that would cover all three pickups at one, one big-ass cover that was some sort of cool custom design, maybe carved...hmmm... ...don't mind me, I'm just thinking stupid stuff out loud... I'm there dude. I can see it too. A big plate made from ebony with bloodwood covers or just the ebony cutouts as covers... Overlays made from the bloodwood cutouts... The body is an actual semi-acoustic, probably ebony... Lindy Fralin pups instead of Airline repros... Ebony TP with a dragon inlaid into it... Holly & ebony multi-layer binding... He probably would have been able to find figured bloodwood somewhere. I've seen it, but it's rare. Too bad I ain't even half the luthier Myka is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 All I can say is thank you for not being afraid to hurt my feelings by telling me the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 I think that doin' a big ebony plate would be awesome. And you could use your scroll saw and make a cool design on the outside of the ring to accentuate the shape, or make it like a pickguard maybe. Definitely go with the black though, I think it's a lot better than the white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJE-Guitars Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 The black rings look WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better! As for all the above about control positioning - I think people need to remember it's a big bodied guitar and squeezing them all up close to the bridge just wouldn't look right on the body. On the controls though have you not considered some slightly 'classier' control knobs? Such a metal cap bell knobs such as these at Stumacs: I think they'd suit the design far more. I bought 3 pairs of those speedknob things and I think they have either been slung or are gathering dust somewhere in my workshop, for me they just look really cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 This thing needs chicken head knobs.... ok no more posting after drinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 looking really nice again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) Definitely better with the black rings. I have to say though - is that blotches of dye or something I can see through the holes in the body? Edited June 5, 2009 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Looks heaps better with the black rings John. Im wondering if you have a airbrush to blacken the inside of your dragon holes. It will really make them pop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 SJE: I cave serious consideration to those knobs. The whole piece is a mix of traditional and aggressive. In the ned, I felt the metal-topped knobs were to traditional. Yours aren't a BAD option, just not the right one in my mind. Thanks for the input though. Prostheta: I'm not sure what you're seeing. Chops: That's been suggested before. No air gun, not thrilled with sticking the tip of a can up to the holes. I honestly think that the holes are being highlighted by the flash. This just brought up a thought - when it's all done and the control side is covered in shielding foil, that will really reflect light and show through. CRAP ON A STICK!!!!!!! Can the foil be painted? I'm not getting black shielding paint, so please don't suggest it. If spray painting the foil will work, that might just be the route to take. On the other side of the body, maybe I'll have to tape the edges of the dragons and spray into the holes anyway. Without an air brush, does anyone have any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) SJE: I cave serious consideration to those knobs. The whole piece is a mix of traditional and aggressive. In the ned, I felt the metal-topped knobs were to traditional. Yours aren't a BAD option, just not the right one in my mind. Thanks for the input though. Prostheta: I'm not sure what you're seeing. Chops: That's been suggested before. No air gun, not thrilled with sticking the tip of a can up to the holes. I honestly think that the holes are being highlighted by the flash. This just brought up a thought - when it's all done and the control side is covered in shielding foil, that will really reflect light and show through. CRAP ON A STICK!!!!!!! Can the foil be painted? I'm not getting black shielding paint, so please don't suggest it. If spray painting the foil will work, that might just be the route to take. On the other side of the body, maybe I'll have to tape the edges of the dragons and spray into the holes anyway. Without an air brush, does anyone have any other suggestions? As long as you connect the shield foil to ground it'll shield regardless if there's paint on it or not. (.. to clarify; the paint should not act as an isolator or break the electrical connection between foil and ground. ) Edited June 5, 2009 by Cactus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 i thought i could see drips of lacquer insider your dragons - i think prostheta is seeing the same thing i have also seen this on pro level instruments with narrow f-holes so didnt think it was worth mentioning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAI6 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) I believe this is what you guys see: Edited June 5, 2009 by RAI6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Those ARE drips from the poly. There aren't any "stalactites" of finish hanging there, but there are two drip spots on the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 Inflating balloons in those holes wouldn't work to protect the inside from overspray :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 That DEFINATELY looks better with black pickup rings. If you don't have an air gun, dont' forget about rattle cans. They may be cheep, but they do the job, and when done properly, the result can look pretty sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 That's how I paint everything - rattle cans. The tricky part would be getting the tip right against the hole and NOT getting paint on the surface. Clearly, I'd be taping the heck out of the surface. Another thought I had that would be a LOT less risky would be to pour some black paint into the chamber through the back, then "rolling it around" while looking through the f-hole for coverage. It might be easier to funnel it through the dragon. I COULD try to stick the spray can through the back and spray in that general direction. I still gotta think about it for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 I would say you should just tape off the holes, then mask the rest of the guitar, and spray it with spray paint. I think that putting paint in and swishing it around would take forever to dry for the amount of paint you'd need to move it enough to cover. I think it would be a good idea to do it (make SURE to mask as well as possible). It would look really nice with the black in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 What about using a nozzle off of a new can of CRC that comes with the straw to penetrate small areas. Just a thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kully Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 i have done the nozzle thing before it works well but it takes along time and its hard to get the coat even Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 I would just leave it as-is, the project is going fine, and if you make a wrong move trying to blacken your interior in, you will go backwards and possibly in a big fat greek way. Not all ideas need to be acted on, some are fine to just drift in one side of your head and exit the other side leaving you unaffected. If you were going to paint the interior, it should have been done before now. As far as your control cavity, you don't need to tape the backside of the cover. You can make a plastic cover box that will shield the controls and put your tape over that, it will be mostly hidden, better than taping the backside of the cover for sure. Have you ever seen the metal control shielding boxes LP's had? You can 'fake' that by making one out of plastic and taping it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 That's how I paint everything - rattle cans. The tricky part would be getting the tip right against the hole and NOT getting paint on the surface. Clearly, I'd be taping the heck out of the surface. Another thought I had that would be a LOT less risky would be to pour some black paint into the chamber through the back, then "rolling it around" while looking through the f-hole for coverage. It might be easier to funnel it through the dragon. I COULD try to stick the spray can through the back and spray in that general direction. I still gotta think about it for a while. You could try some black tinted shellac and add some to the cavity using a Hypo needle. Then slosh it around in there until it coats the back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Weekend's over, new black pup rings made, painted, and finished... let's get back on track. Time to show off some WIP on the neck. I took the tape off, wiped it thoroughly with mineral spirits, and gave the F/B a coat of teak oil. This is really more for the bloodwood than the rosewood. Unfortunately, the pics are poorly lit so it's not showing up very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Now let's fret this SOB. Here's my highly advanced, precision tools & setup for cutting the frets and nipping the tangs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 (edited) And chance of a tight shot sighting down the fingerboard? I don't know whether it's the photo resizing or whatever, but it looks dipped somewhat. I'm sure it's probably not. Edited June 9, 2009 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 I'll hook ya up tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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