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Iceman


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I finished off the headstock too. I scraped the binding flush, then buffed it up to 1000 grit. Putting the tuners on is a no-brainer. Just a little measuring and some recessing for the nuts & washers. The TRC took a little effort, but it's all good in the end.

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A small crack happened, probably during the routing. You can't see it from too far away, and even then only at the right angle. I can't do anything about it anyway...

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NOT SCRATCHES!!!! It's lint from the windex-paper towel.

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Behold the maker.....

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I finished off the headstock too. I scraped the binding flush, then buffed it up to 1000 grit. Putting the tuners on is a no-brainer. Just a little measuring and some recessing for the nuts & washers. The TRC took a little effort, but it's all good in the end.

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B)

Be proud man... be very proud.

That looks sick! don't know how those shots slipped by me......

...the forum needs a little green envy smileycon ..... that'd be me right now.

oh well , here's a :D and a :D that about sums it up.

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Are you meaning the top near the binding or the edges you can see THROUGH the top?

Someone mailed be a package of puppies the other day. I put their collard on, but they have to stain in the kennel for a little while longer. But it won't be long before they can run and bark.

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Yeah, it's the problem of being able to see through to the sides of the mirror top. I've considered this thing about mirror before for inlays.

Don't use too much mirror on it though, otherwise the guitar will have a nasty habit of blending into it's surrounding and auto-camouflaging itself. You'll never find it again!

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I'm cheap. There's no real getting around it. I'm also virtually broke. There's no getting around that either. Not destitute, but not a lot of disposable income to spend on expensive tools.

Without a proper spraying setup, I brush on most of my finishes. I've actually become pretty good at it. If that's what you have to work with, you either learn to use it well, accept poor results, or quit.

Still, spraying is the best option. So I invested $15 in a kitchen oil sprayer.

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It's meant to spray olive oil with air pressure that's pumped in with the cap. If it'll handle straight olive oil, it'll handle water-based poly. Do I reallyknow if it'll work well enough in this application? Not a clue, but I'm going to go for it anyway.

Here's the body all painted white and with 5-layer binding.

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I really should do some test sprays, but what the he11. The worst that will happen is the finish is uneven and has air bubbles that need to be sanded out.

I know that if you want a smooth brushed finish you need to dilute the can about 50%. I've read that spraying needs it even thinner, so I went to +/- 75%. If it's too thin, it's too thin. I need more coats. OH WELL.

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Here's the body with the first coat on.

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When it was sprayed on, the surface was absolutely inundated with air bubbles. I feared this was a waste of time & money as well, but nothing to do but see if they popped or not. These pics were taken about 2 minutes after spraying. That was about 20 minutes ago. It's looking promising so far. We'll see what happens with additional coats.

FWIW: I chose matte water-based poly for multiple reasons.

1) It won't give the white a yellow tinge that oil-based would.

2) With a rattle-can paint, you HAVE to use poly.

3) Clean up with the sprayer. I just empty the finish back into the can and run hot water through the sprayer and it's done.

4) Matte because I just want it matte. The neck is matte/natural wood, so it'll match up better in my mind.

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so ...... :D

how'd them bubbles come out ?

BACK ON TOPIC! Thanks.

They actually all popped out without an issue. I've sprayed 6 coats so far without any sign of runs, drips, sags, or unusual buildup. It's looking pretty promising so far. Tomorrow will be another 3 coats, then Friday will be a leveling wetsand. I'll be sure to give a report on it then.

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