wizardfire Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 (edited) Hello, I was advised on this site to use Titebond to fix a laminate front to a guitar. All went well until it came to staining. Even though I sanded the whole guitar with great care, every little spec of remaining Titebond has resisted the stain resulting in an appalling finish. I will not be using Titebond , ever again, but will revert to good old PVA. Wizardfire Not a happy man! Edited May 6, 2010 by wizardfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Which titebond did you use? Two and Three are watertight, if I remember correctly, whilst One isnt, and I think thats the one everyone uses. Personally I use PVA as well, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 you have to used tite bond original that has been stated on this site oh about 35,987 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samba Pa Ti Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 i like titebond, never had a problem with it, and yes i use the original because i cant find the others locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Take it as a lesson learned, re-finish it and move on. Builders here have stripped off a a finish they weren't happy with and started over. It depends on your idea of whats acceptable. I happened to learn this while reading Melvyn Hiscock's book, he shows squeeze-out while gluing up a set-neck and has a damp cloth at the ready to clean up the ooze. He mentions that finish/stain won't adhere to the glue and will give poor results. Bob Flexners's Finishing book goes further and recommends a scraper to ensure all glue residue is gone. Thanks Bob & Melvyn Ive made mistakes all over the place while building, its part of learning. The tools are usually not the problem, WE ARE !! -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizardfire Posted May 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 you have to used tite bond original that has been stated on this site oh about 35,987 times. Thanks for the prompt Tim37...I think you will find that the total count is actually 35,985....and yes, I did use Titebond Original! Anyone want to buy a nearly full bottle of the stuff. Wizardfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 I will not be using Titebond , ever again, but will revert to good old PVA. Polyvinyl acetate..PVA..Like titebond original..?????? I thinks you are very confused. 3,000 million times it has been mentioned. Everyone here uses the same stuff and stain almost everything so I would be hard pressed to blame the glue. Looking to blame something so why not the glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Dave Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Hello, I was advised on this site to use Titebond to fix a laminate front to a guitar. All went well until it came to staining. Even though I sanded the whole guitar with great care, every little spec of remaining Titebond has resisted the stain resulting in an appalling finish. I will not be using Titebond , ever again, but will revert to good old PVA. Wizardfire Not a happy man! Poor workmanship is to blame here. Next time be more careful and wipe all extra glue away with a wet rag. But there wont be a next time. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 I was advised on this site to use Titebond to fix a laminate front to a guitar. How thick of a laminate? Tightbond and other pva glues should not be used on thin veneers as it can soak through. With a veneer, its best to use a veneer glue. Even though I sanded the whole guitar with great care, every little spec of remaining Titebond has resisted the stain You can take all the care you want, but not getting the glue sanded off is hardly the glues fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 +1 i dont know any glue that takes stain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shredforbread33 Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 I let mine freeze over the winter and now it's a big hunk of rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted May 6, 2010 Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Poor workmanship is to blame here. Next time be more careful and wipe all extra glue away with a wet rage. But there wont be a next time. :D I also often wipe the excess off in a wet rage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 titebond is awesome... in that i can take two pieces of wood - apply titebond, clamp for a while and i essentially now have one peice of wood . . . . what could be better i have had issues with it soaking through thin veneers but thats down to the wood and the water in the glue. it is solved by not using direct stains with thin veneers. i have also had issues with is wicking up wenge or paduak veneer through about 4mm of wood. damn annoying, but its still more the wood fault that the glues... and it is still not a problem unless direct staining now i wouldnt usually direct stain those woods - i would only ever really direct stain maple - which has no pores to wick through in that way and the glue will never go far into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 To blame, condemn, and crucify w/o a fair trial is unjust and shows an unreasonable attitude to learning the trade of building good guitars. No good thing will come of this kind of attitude I tell you the truth. I would like to see a pic of this repaired laminated top guitar and understand what your application procedure was exactly before condemning Titebond to Eternal Hellfire. I would also like to read the original thread for questionable usage of terminology, such as possibly substituting the word laminate for veneer or something along those lines, to be sure we are all talking about apples and not you saying apples and actually meaning paranormal nebulizers. There is no good or bad, right or wrong, there is only knowledge ...and Kabuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 I love Titebond, because it doesn't stick my fingers to the neck whilst binding it. Although it's not very good at binding Ivoroid, admittedly. I call Titebond to the stand to face it's accusor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Titebond I Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 Herro. I so ronery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Aaron Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Some sources suggest that HIDE GLUE (the granular kind) might take stains well, but I've never tried it myself. Also, hide glue sets up too fast to be an easy-to-use veneering glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 if your so inclined to save money by using veneer and also wanting to colour it, yu have to spend the money on a tinted laqcuer; thats how i sees it anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Indeed. My Ibanez Prestige S is veneered but with a sunburst using tinted clears. It's 1-1.5mm thick at most, so I have no idea whether it would look "patchy" if it were stained but the tinted clears make it look perfect and don't ruin the chatoyance ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Gluing: you're doing it wrong Titebond Original works fine, even for thin veneers, but in those cases you need to be particularly careful with amounts (thin, even spread) and pressures (not too much, not too little). Also Titebond is a PVA glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Titebond I Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Also Titebond is a PVA glue. I so am Despite my watery emulsion nature, keep me out of the reach of children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samba Pa Ti Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 AHHH ITS GARY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mender Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Also Titebond is a PVA glue. I so am Despite my watery emulsion nature, keep me out of the reach of children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Also Titebond is a PVA glue. I so am Despite my watery emulsion nature, keep me out of the reach of children. Dude, I love you,man ! Tite-bond *@&^!ng RULES. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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