Jump to content

Quilted Maple Satriani


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The deep green ripples look great against the gold Floyd. Digging the matching clamps on the fretboard gluedown :D and the paint scuffs on the handles, been tightening those with multi grips?

Yep. Little small pliers to get a hold of them. There is not always enough room to fit my fingers in between clamps when i do a board so I use a little pliers to turm em :D Not over tight. still only hand tight you know.

sometimes I use a set of jaws I have, 36 inch long things for a vice. Just put it in & put the pressure on. but it stained a board a while ago, so I need to make up new facings for it. Anyway, I like doin the clampasarus rex method. So screw it B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. Little small pliers to get a hold of them. There is not always enough room to fit my fingers in between clamps when i do a board so I use a little pliers to turm em :D Not over tight. still only hand tight you know.

why not just alternate the clamp direction?

half facing forwards, half facing back - just so you can get your hands on them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. Little small pliers to get a hold of them. There is not always enough room to fit my fingers in between clamps when i do a board so I use a little pliers to turm em :D Not over tight. still only hand tight you know.

why not just alternate the clamp direction?

half facing forwards, half facing back - just so you can get your hands on them

B) eh ? ok. never even crossed my mind. B)

Ill do that next time. its amazing, you make **** loads of necks over the years & a little thing like that never clicks :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha, good points wez..

One thing that i never understood, is why people use 394830948394 clamps, along EVERY CENTIMETER of fretboard surface... when you could just get a 1.5" thick flat board the same width and length as the fretbaord to use a caul... then it distributes pressure evenly, and you dont need like 39483094834 clamps. It wont work if you radius first... but ive never had a gap gluing it that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i use a caul and quite a few clamps too - just not over tighetened too much

tbh though the elastic band was probably enough... i have a stew-mac kit acoustic that had the fretboard glued on with just an elastic band as clamp, as the instructions suggest. its still on there 5 years later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ha ha ha, Why is it we all have so much to say about the enchanted forrest of clamps. :D:D

Iv tried most things over the years for putting on fretboards. even down to figuring out the precise locations, foot dimeters & exact numbers required for clamping necks of various sizes (used to be an engineer) Tried the clamping with a caul & 3 clamps aswell. I even made up a clamping jig to glue up to 3 necks at once.

But in the end you always end up going with what feels natural, most comfortable to you.

Wez is correct, the elastic banding does work on its own but I always use the clamps aswell - Just in case.

Killemalls clamp / caul treatment is fine also. but like you say. not for a radiudes board.

Speaking of clamping up necks. I just got handed an acoustic for a repair. broken neck job. Ill put up some piks this evening for the horror fans among you. Nasty B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check this thing out. Was asked to have a go repairing it. Seen this thing first about 8 monthe ago when it was a lot worse. Aparently his kid jumped on it & that hammered the **** out of the neck. the strings were never tensioned off after the break, instead the guitar was put into a shed out his back yard for storage - for 3 years :D . when I first saw it the break was much wider, I had him bind the neck up in surgical tubing & keep it indoors in a consistantly dry - warm room since then.

DSCF1719.jpgDSCF1718.jpgDSCF1724.jpgDSCF1721.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Holy crap! Whatchagonnado? That thing is crying for a whole new neck or at least a new headstock and top end scarfed on so you can get some meat back under the truss rod.

SR

Yea, My crappy photography doesent show the full extent of the damage.

On the bass side the crack goes to the 6th fret, But on the treble side it goes all the way up to the 11th. That second crack, The one that looks like a failed scarf is a killer aswell. as for the missing chunk, lets just not mention that

But the real problem is that the worn patches on the treble side (looks like ring damage from playing Id say) those are soft. Kinda spongy. & a lot of the fretbaord is still kinda fluffy/raised grain in texture. It seems to have warped to one side aswell. Maby it was leaning more on one side in his shed. Against an un-insulated block wall in ireland for fook sake. the centre line of the nut end of the board is off by 2.25mm from the body line.

I rekon it needs to dry for a long while yet, then maby a new neck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyway. Back to the gitir being built here. Got some more done on the neck.

Cleaned up the face of the headstock to take the quilted veneer. Got the shelf cut for the nut aswell. Cant decide if I should bookmatch the veneer here. I dont think I should as it may look a bit funny on a 6 in line head. Any toughts ? :D

DSCF1730copy.jpg

Started putting in the side dots. Tried clear epoxy for the adhesive, with UHWMPE Nylon for the dots.

DSCF1725copy.jpg

Started the carve on the back of the neck aswel. My usual thing here, Go at it with a heavy rasp to make big scallops along the area to be carved, Then use the rasp to level it all out. once its all level I shape the curve with - you guessed it - the rasp. has to be my fave tool :D

DSCF1735copy.jpgDSCF1734copy.jpg

No piks of the carve process, not that im an idiot & forgot to take any - I Swear !!!!! just get so into carving necks that everything else gets lost in the background noise. I doubt im the only one here like this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the back of the headstock roughed out. I think I will be inlaying my logo in here, Thinking about it anyway. Enough meat here to compensate for the floyd nut bolts & still be stronger than a standard ultra slim necked shredder axe.

DSCF1737copy.jpg

Side dots worked out fine. Nice clean little jobbies, stand out a mile against the rosewood. The oil finish should deepen the wood colours around then & make them stand out a little more. Which is goo as there will be no markers on the face of the board.

DSCF1738copy.jpgDSCF1731copy.jpg

Im realy diggin the grain on this board. Glad I kept this piece for myself, streaky as hell :D . buff, polish & a fret job needed now.

DSCF1739copy.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with you with bookmatching the veneer on the HS. No point on a 6 by. Perhaps on a 3 by 3, but even on those I think it gets lost in everything else going on in the HS. I think the grain showing in the headstock right now looks pretty damn nice and goes well with the fretboard. Then maybe you could put your logo on top.

I've been thinking about the acoustic. I think you might just salvage the strap buttons and the tuners and build a new guitar around those. :D

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with you with bookmatching the veneer on the HS. No point on a 6 by. Perhaps on a 3 by 3, but even on those I think it gets lost in everything else going on in the HS. I think the grain showing in the headstock right now looks pretty damn nice and goes well with the fretboard. Then maybe you could put your logo on top.

I've been thinking about the acoustic. I think you might just salvage the strap buttons and the tuners and build a new guitar around those. :D

SR

You may not be too far from the truth there, I rekon the acoustic is dead. Maby ill salvage the body aswell as the tuners, Make up for there only being one strap button :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah baby, those photos have a guitar envy inducing factor of 10, I saw your neck shaping technique in a previous post and used that on my guitar, great way to do it, cheers for that. Yep joined veneer on the headstock might not look so good because the join doesn't have things to break up the line like pick ups on the body, I would go for one piece.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK. Im starting to freak out here.

I have a funny feeling the green is fading. a few days ago i notaiced that the wood was almost showing thru when the light caught it at certain angles. I usually rub a colour back to be very light on areas to realy make the grain work, but this seems to be getting lighter by the day.

this dye came from stewy mac & they swore blind it was fade resistant. They were so confidant about it they said it even says it on their site. Its under 5 coats of UV resistant clear at this point. realy realy tiking me off :D

I realy hope to fook im just imagining this :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...