jaycee Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 Here I go again. This will be my 4th build but this time a Bass for my brother. 34" scale length 5 piece neck Sapele/Ash/Sapele/Ash/Sapele. Not sure of the rest of the woods for the body yet but they may be the same. I am thinking of a Maple fretboard with Wenge inlays, he really liked the Roman numerals on my last build so I may put those on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 (edited) Neck lams joined and scarf joint done I bought some digital calipers from Lidl's the other week, thought they may come in handy, now I find myself checking the thicknesses on everything i.e. both sides of the headstock, I think they will br a great asset to the builds. Edited September 7, 2010 by jaycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 (edited) A few more progress pics. Body blank Clamped the one half of the body to the work bench with a piece of mdf underneath to get it off the work surface and planed the same way you would if it were a shooting board. this way I got the sides nice and square 122 holes drilled for the chambers Edited September 21, 2010 by jaycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Bit more done today. chambered body and half a bin bag of shavings There is still more to come off the center piece but I don't know what style pups my brother wants, so I haven't drawn those or the bridge onto the plans either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padbug Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Can I ask what tool you used to finish the inside of the cavity? I'm halfway through chambering my build and I'm struggling to finish the process with all my fingertips in tact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 I'm going with a router with a straight bit of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 (edited) I'm going with a router with a straight bit of some sort. Yup, I used a template bit. First of all I chisled away all the remaining wood, then put the template on and routed the sides. As the base of my template wasn't wide enough to reach the middle of the "chambers", I removed template, used the same thickness mdf to bridge the gap and removed the middle section with the same bit ( I don't normally use a template bit for hogging out but it needed to be replaced) and the router marks were cleaned up with sandpaper. I have made an extra wide base for my router but in this case I couldn't use it as I don't have a 1/4 shank bit which would have reached the bottom. I can find 1/2 shanks 2" long but nothing in 1/4 Edited September 22, 2010 by jaycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 This is going to have a Spalted beech top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenggg Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 ืnice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 ืnice job Thank you. Rough cutting out of the shape. I drilled lots of relief holes to comensate for the jigsaw blade wandering to close to the body outline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 These came today. If they sound as good as they look and the presentation, then they should be good. I am going to use the neck/middle pup only and keep the bridge for a future build. I now have to get a soapbar type for the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 I used a 14 and 10mm bit for the holes and a jigsaw with a new bosch blade, quite a narrow blade to allow for corners. Very pleased with the result. Cleaned it up with sandpaper and a drum sander attatchment in the cordless drill. I am putting 10mm tigers eye dots in the fretboard which is Birds eye maple as is the veneer on the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 I love the f-hole(s). This is going to be nice. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 Yeah that f-hole is killer and a great choice in woods too.Can't wait to see how this turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted December 13, 2010 Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 I'm working on a chambered bass right now myself... I hope it turns out anywhere near as good as this one is looking. Love the drilled relief holes for the body cut out too. Thanks for sharing. Even if I don't use it on a whole body, the inner horn radii and other tight turns will definitely benefit from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2010 Thanks guys. I'm working on a chambered bass right now myself... .... Love the drilled relief holes for the body cut out too. Thanks for sharing. Even if I don't use it on a whole body, the inner horn radii and other tight turns will definitely benefit from this. The relief holes were great especially as I used a jigsaw to cut the body out with as it stopped the blade from wandering off the vertical axis for to long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Quick update, the route is just underneath the bridge for earthing purposes, and the top is rough cut just before gluing onto the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) Haven't got a drum sander, or made a jig for the router for thicknessing / flattening the top so heres how I do it Mark the top with a pencil ..... Put face down onto sanding bed..... After a few cans of elbow grease.... Quite happy with the result and a nice tight joint. I used 60 grit and will tidy it up using an orbital sander to 220 and then go through to 320 before the finish goes on. The small scratch at the bottom has been sanded out, I noticed it after the pic was taken. Edited January 2, 2011 by jaycee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Neck pocket and pickup routes done Very pleased with the look of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirge for november Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Nice build! Just wondering, how do you rout straight cornered pockets? (as a router bit has a radius) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Anderson Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 how do you rout straight cornered pockets? (as a router bit has a radius) chisel? I did neck pocket like that it was PITA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 how do you rout straight cornered pockets? (as a router bit has a radius) chisel? I did neck pocket like that Yes, I used a Chisel. Get it nice and sharp take a little off at a time and it won't take long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirge for november Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hmm thanks!! Never thought of that.. wonder why. I'll use that method! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Progress on the neck has been slow, I am waiting for the dots I want to be re-stocked. I will do a partial carve of the neck because I like to have a flat section when the frets get installed. Taking a rasp to a perfectly good piece of timber is scary The heel opposite the neck pocket is being half profiled for easier access to the upper frets, which means the neck pocket is only half the width of the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Better pics of the control knobs. A flush mounted electro socket, and a profile shot of the half shaped heel of the neck which is not completely finished. I also put threaded inserts into the heel which you can just make out 4 on one side and one on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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