hittitewarrior Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 I think I may know the answer to this question (the answering being to use a router and then rasp/block sand/etc.) however, I'd be interested if anyone else has had any positive experiences with other tools, or whether I just picked the wrong tool for the job... I started cutting out my 1/4" jig for the body outline (to use for "precision" routing the final 1/2" jig for the body outline) using a band saw and noticing that I was not going to be able to get it into the cutaway, decided to do the detail cutting later. I just tried using a coping saw, which I really expected to work, but had a horrible time with it binding in the MDF. I decided to heed the advice I've seen on here about using the right tool for the job and stopping when you start to get frustrated... Is my assumption about using a router and then fine tuning the outline by sanding, the best way to go about shaping MDF? Has anyone tried any other methods with success (i.e. scroll saw? something else?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Personally I used a jig saw and coping saw for my mdf headstock jig to bring it within about 1/16th of the outline and then used a drum sander in my drill press to finish it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 if you have access to a scroll saw they work good but your always gonna have to finish it up with sandpaper and files (atleast i have had to) this is your chance to get it perfect if you screw up on the template your guitar is gonna be screwed up so just take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pullshocks Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 For making templates, the oscillating spindle sander is the best $150 I ever spent. It lets me get very close to the line very quickly. It is perfect for inside curves but works surprisingly well with outside curves too. With the right touch, you can pull the work past the sanding drum and get very smooth curves. I still do the final fairing with sandpaper stuck on thin strips of wood, that follow the curves and take off the high spots. 1/16th thick for tight curves, maybe 3/32 inch thick for sanding the lower bouts. I have not tried MDF, but I think the same methods would work, but would be a lot dustier. For some reason I find files really effective working on plexiglass templates, not so much on baltic birch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 I can't agree more about using oscillating spindle sanders for MDF templates. They are the best moulding and shaping tools for this kind of work, however extraction is of paramount importance as the dust buildup can easily obscure your view of the working lines. Chris Verhoeven authored a fantastic tutorial on template making which is stickied. The important additional step he uses is to make a thin template which is easily tuned by hand (hardboard, Masonite, etc) at which point that can be transferring to the working template material (1/2" MDF, etc) and then from that to the workpiece. Given that master templates are usually referred back to in production environments, fragile materials can be transferred to thin Perspex/Plexi/acrylic to create a hardier "working master" template. For handworking MDF, elevate your workpiece parallel to the workbench by a few centimetres on scrap or whatever, then use squared-up blocks/cylinders/bottles with coarse sandpaper to ensure you are keeping the edges perpendicular to the face. A rasp will happily tear your MDF to bits so I wouldn't use them unless it is for very rough work, and by that point a coping saw or bandsaw is more appropriate for stock removal. Good call on the "stopping when you get frustrated" point. For my own part, my biggest problem is trying to do too much work too quickly either because time is pressing or because of the natural urge to see results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Wear a mask while sanding MDF. Bad things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Yes. The Urea-Formaldehyde glues used to manufacture MDF have all kinds of health implications from the immediate nausea, choking and irritation of nose/eyes/throat to the longer term stuff. Another plus point for good extraction, but this goes without saying really. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 I will add another side effect. When I was working with it last the sawdust that landed on exposed skin caused immediate itching. It did not let up until after I had showered (which did not take too long trust me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shad peters Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I use a spindle sander as well, they are the best money you can spend for that type of work and super handy for other stuff as well. that in conjunction with an edge sander or disc sander work wonders. I used a drill press spindle sander kit for a year or two before I got an actual spindle sander, those work really nicely for the money. spindle sander wont work well for the upper and lower bout though, you can either sand those by hand with a block, or if you don't have access to a disc or edge sander but have a hand held belt sander turn it up on its side and rig yourself up a little edge sander. I have done that a couple times in the past as well. what type of blade were you using with the band saw that you weren't able to get through the cut-away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Band saw blades: When I was using a 1/2" bandsaw blade I could not even dream of cutting inside the horns. Now that I'm using a 1/4" blade on my bandsaw, I can cut the curve of the horns in one smooth easy cut. Follows the line whichever way I turn it. Then the sander that everyo9ne else is mentioned is the absolute best tool for inside horns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hittitewarrior Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Oh, it was at least a 1/2" bandsaw lol... maybe even larger. Machine shop at work. I'm just starting, so I obviously do not have much in the way of power/carpentry tools. I'll definitely take a look into the spindle sander. I have a family friend with a woodworking shop, so I'll have to see what he has and if I can spend some time in his shop. The MDF I'm working with to start is 1/4". Saving the 1/2" MDF for the working template. I second getting itchy on MDF dust contact... made sure to wear gloves the second time. Thanks all for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shad peters Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 if you really work it you might be able to do it with a half inch blade, I have made some pretty tight cuts with one before. If you have access to something more like a quarter inch you'll be able to cut that puppy no sweat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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