Maiden69 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Ah, got it. Yeah, I know what you mean about those little things that probably nobody will notice, but you know they are there... I'm the opposite when it comes to deep carve bodies, I think that it gives another dimension to figured tops. I definitely need to finish this turbo project I'm doing on my car to start building some guitars again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Well you know...this is a 3/8" deep carve.I don't know why you guys act like it's shallow.Any deeper would be ridiculous. In all seriousness,i think carves should be subtle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 What?! 3/4" carves are the bee's knees! That said, and sorry if this is already known or if it's an optical illusion... but it doesn't look like things are centered. Bridge "center" looks way farther to the upper bout than it should. Either way, I'm all for it! If you're not happy witht he work it's your perogative! Give that bad boy a burning, cutting, or whatever it is you like to do to instruments that don't make the grade. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 You are correct,it is not centered at all.I mentioned it on the first page I think.I had the bandsaw get away from me while I was daydreaming and I redesigned the whole thing in the middle of the project. I'm still finishing it and stringing it up.if nothing else I want to know if the limba I have left is worth all of the trouble.I have enough to make another entire guitar or possibly two bodies..if it sounds half as good as everyone says I'll use what I have to get it right next time. Right now the guitar is hanging with the second application of wipe on poly.Every day i scuff it with 220 and wipe on as much as it'll hold,then let it sit and repeat until I think it's enough to make me happy..then it will sit and cure while i start my next project.... On a better note,i finished up the twin for my buddy and handed it over to him yesterday.I let him try every guitar I have and he still said(and I agree) that the one I gave him sounds the best.I let it sit for a month strung up and it really seemed to help it settle in.He is happy with it even though i think the neck joint could have been tighter..it was my first bolt on and I overestimated how much room to leave for finish by just a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 name='westhemann' timestamp='1350336213' post='516194'] No. Well, Thas told me ha ha. Ah fook it. if its realy bothering you then mangle the krap out of it, It is kinda theraputic to just strap one to a tree & tear it up with an axe if its being a dik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 (edited) its easy to beat yourself up over this kind of stuff and destroy a guitar that doesn't meet your preset notions as to what it should be put it together string it up and remember all the stuff this one taught you - use it as an office beater or whatever for a few months and see if it holds together - if it does, move it on for a reasonable price - i am sure someone will love it to death for reasons you can't imagine - or even better find a young player who needs and cant afford a decent guitar and give it away - i bet this one will be a long way better than the crap hanging on the wall of the local music shop btw maybe you should forget about the limba and move it on - Edited October 23, 2012 by ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 It is slowly being assembled right now.This guitar will never be sold because I will not have a guitar out there that I don't feel represents the type of guitar I myself would want to buy,and i don't think I am being unreasonable. Most likely it will be one of my personal guitars for it's entire life.If I have guitars to play that I could never ethically make a dollar from,then that works for me.It seems like it will play perfectly and it should sound great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 It is slowly being assembled right now.This guitar will never be sold because I will not have a guitar out there that I don't feel represents the type of guitar I myself would want to buy,and i don't think I am being unreasonable. Most likely it will be one of my personal guitars for it's entire life.If I have guitars to play that I could never ethically make a dollar from,then that works for me.It seems like it will play perfectly and it should sound great I hate those guitars... I have a few. Most die in a Trash Can Fire after a few years of mocking me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Okay,so...done...as far as it is going.I used mostly old,blemished parts since it is going to be my new main guitar(since I sold my KXK) pics This is a cheap ass locking nut from an '80s crapocaster I turned into a super crapocaster before it ended up in my closet gathering dust.It keeps the string spacing over the zero fret.The truss rod cover is an extra Doug sent me when I bought those multiscale necks and fretboards.Since this guitar will never belong to anyone but me I figured it's fitting Chinese TOM/Tailpiece set If you look very closely you can see the piece of maple veneer I used to fix where my template slipped on the neck joint rout..I think I can hear it screaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 The back.Cavity cover is temporary,I want to use thinner stock on this one Grover tuners from a Gothic Epiphone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 So..the "scoop" on the limba is that the tone is awesome...perfect...paired with the maple this guitar sounds like an LP studio on steroids.It could not possibly sound better. Playability needs a bit of tweaking.I need to level the frets and dress the ends...now that I know it's won't be going in the burn pit... And I suppose when i use the rest of my limba I need to up my game Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Oh..I just realized the pics don't show what is happening with the zero fret It is a little confusing when positioning my hand on open chords..I think I need to blacken the fretboard above the zero fret to stop my eye from misinterpreting the end of the playing surface 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 there you go mate - now you got a decent office guitar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Well,what i really discovered with this one is that my mini LP shape can balance properly even with a 25.5" scale by shortening the portion of the body where the neck joins and pushing the neck further towards the waist,which also pushes the bridge back,so I can redesign the control cavity to be smaller so I can use the center of the body as a centerline and have a viable design that is more comfy than a Gibson I am trying to zero in on a couple of designs that resemble existing and well loved(by me) guitars that don't have the parts of those guitars that I don't like.Then I can focus on making a bunch of them with different woods,paint schemes,etc. For example in this case,I like the tone and looks of an LP,but I don't like how thick they are,how heavy they are,and the fact that most of them are unbalanced...also they don't have a gut cut,which also makes them feel unwieldy when strapped on. I am working on a V,too...Taking the Gibson V and shrinking it in every direction and sharpening the points,which really looks a lot like a BC Rich speed V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Oh..I just realized the pics don't show what is happening with the zero fret It is a little confusing when positioning my hand on open chords..I think I need to blacken the fretboard above the zero fret to stop my eye from misinterpreting the end of the playing surface Did you use the same fretwire for the zero fret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Did you use the same fretwire for the zero fret? Yes.Why wouldn't you? It is just another fret.No reason for it to be different from all the others.Only reason you cut a nut higher is to give it a little room for wear before having to replace the nut. Think about it like this...What happens when you use a capo?The fret in front of the capo becomes the "nut"...same exact thing here. The whole "slightly larger zero fret" is only going on the theory that in time the strings will cut a groove in the zero fret faster than the others because of the constant pressure,but I feel like at that point you need a fret redressing anyway.Of course,this is my first zero fret...I think I like it though...the open tone is just like the fretted tone...it sounds smoother and open chords seem better tuned 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 Did you use the same fretwire for the zero fret? Yes.Why wouldn't you? It is just another fret.No reason for it to be different from all the others.Only reason you cut a nut higher is to give it a little room for wear before having to replace the nut. Think about it like this...What happens when you use a capo?The fret in front of the capo becomes the "nut"...same exact thing here. The whole "slightly larger zero fret" is only going on the theory that in time the strings will cut a groove in the zero fret faster than the others because of the constant pressure,but I feel like at that point you need a fret redressing anyway.Of course,this is my first zero fret...I think I like it though...the open tone is just like the fretted tone...it sounds smoother and open chords seem better tuned I have had to explain that to so many people. I used to used a zero fret on everything. Its no different than having a capo at the first fret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 I went ghetto on it and used a magic marker to blacken the edge of the fretboard past the zero fret...it helped immediately with my positioning.I just spent a couple of hours playing it.I really,really like the tone of maple/limba...just so nice....great bottom end with a really sweet high end...I barely even need reverb for leads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Did you use the same fretwire for the zero fret? Yes.Why wouldn't you? It is just another fret.No reason for it to be different from all the others.Only reason you cut a nut higher is to give it a little room for wear before having to replace the nut. Think about it like this...What happens when you use a capo?The fret in front of the capo becomes the "nut"...same exact thing here. The whole "slightly larger zero fret" is only going on the theory that in time the strings will cut a groove in the zero fret faster than the others because of the constant pressure,but I feel like at that point you need a fret redressing anyway.Of course,this is my first zero fret...I think I like it though...the open tone is just like the fretted tone...it sounds smoother and open chords seem better tuned That's exactly why I asked, it just make sense. I file my nut slots so the strings rest at the same height as if it was just another fret. That is KEY for intonation. IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 I have been thinking of only using LSR nuts for that reason.I set my locking nuts at that height,but anything other than metal just wears too fast.It really only affects intonation noticeably if you are insanely high on the nut though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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