Searls Guitars Build Thread

[demonx]

Branding one at a time isn't a problem, but I had six to brand today which keeping it hot in between brands is the problem.

I don't have a stove or running water in my workshop. If I need water I have to take a bucket with me.

[westhemann]

Yeah,that big chunk of brass takes forever to heat and loses it really quickly.

[demonx]

First guitar of the run to see hardware:

[westhemann]

Maybe I missed it somewhere,but what pups are those?Really unusual for me to see a Kahler next to something not EMG

[killemall8]

Look like bare knuckles.

Looks great, plain, but clean and well done. Love the clean wiring too.

[demonx]

I usually use kahlers and never use EMGs!

Bare knuckle aftermath pickups in that one.

[westhemann]

I used to use EMG on everything,but the last few years I really prefer just using any decent passives...but with the Kahlers I use those plastic pup covers to cover up the pole pieces because something in my mind just thinks it goes together

This one is Duncan Invaders in both positions,but with the pup covers

What do you use to get the tight corners on the pup routs?Looks like 1/4"" corners and I can never find a pattern bit with less than a 3/8" diameter.My last attempt was a massacre.I was trying to rout for EMG 81/7s and I ate the template because of the lack of a bearing on a 1/4" bit.

[demonx]

What do you use to get the tight corners on the pup routs?Looks like 1/4"" corners and I can never find a pattern bit with less than a 3/8" diameter.My last attempt was a massacre.I was trying to rout for EMG 81/7s and I ate the template because of the lack of a bearing on a 1/4" bit.

I made my own templates to suit the smallest inverted flush trim router bit I could find. It's 9.5mm (3/8" inch) made by carbitool.

The bearing is so small/fragile on it that I use a larger router bit to knock out most of the cavity and then just use this to trim the tighter corners.

[Prostheta]

The way I do it is by using a guide bushing and I will write a tutorial on this sometime.

Essentially you make a larger template taking into account the offset added by the router bushing. For an EMG-81 (70mm x 38mm) a recess of 72mm x 40mm with a 4mm radius in the corners is required. This means using an 8mm cutter. My most-used bushing is 17mm is diameter which means the offset should be (17-8)/2=4,5mm.

This means that the template needs to be 4,5mm wider around the perimeter - or 9,0mm wider and longer - resulting in 81mm x 49mm.

If you don't like the idea of hogging out an entire recess with an 8mm cutter then use a different bushing size to maintain the same offset so that the same template can be used. A 12mm cutter through a 12+(4,5*2) 21mm bushing would cut the same size recess however using a 22mm bushing to increase the offset reduces the cavity size which can be followed up with the 8mm/17mm combination to knock out the corners and finish up the edge.

The same principle works on an overhead pin router also. A 12mm pin and an 8mm cutter would need a 76mm x 44mm template cutout.

[demonx]

I've seen these attachments for my router, but I went the other way as I simply prefer flush trim bits, its idiot proof to throw a 1:1 template down where its meant to be and just cut it. That and the idea of having to make all new templates put it in the too hard box.

The massive pro of the guides you speak of is cheaper, longer lasting bits that are available in smaller sizes.

The next option is cnc... That's where I want to be at!

[Prostheta]

There is no need to figure out where the bearing will be at any one time. Complete control over your cutter depth. Also, you are not going to get a bearing-guided cutter at anything smaller than your 9,5mm bit so you're stuck at that corner radius.

[demonx]

Carl, I'm aware of all this. I already had the hard sell from the guy at the tool shop. It's just that when I already have a wall of templates it's pretty hard to convince to change methods.

I do have cnc plans on the horizon so I'm not stressed about it too much

[demonx]

Couple more assembly pics - this time its #1



Bareknuckle Warpig and kahler look so cool together


Also started assembling the next one today but ran out of time:

Warpig & Mule combo

[ScottR]

NIce! Those are two seriously sleek clean looking builds.

SR

[demonx]

Finally, FINALLY got my hands on some Black Limba!

It's thick enough for solid bodies but I think I'll book match it so it goes further.

[demonx]

Bit further along with #4

[killemall8]

I have always wondered, how do you get the slot for the locking nut the right height? It has always confused me. I mean, if you rout it before the fretboard is radiused and fretted, then you cant tell how high to make it.

[westhemann]

I have always wondered, how do you get the slot for the locking nut the right height?

You use blocks and clamps on either side of the neck to put your router on.It can be tricky.Or you just cut the entire end off and use shims.Sometimes I make shims out of ebony.

[demonx]

I leave the lock nut surface the same as the surface the fingerboard gets glued to, then during assembly I add shims under the locknut to bring it to height.

I've never heard of it done any other way for a lock nut style build

This is my old headstock shape, but its the same technique for this purpose

[demonx]

A couple more pics to demonstrate:

old style truss rod slot used to do but same layout:

[westhemann]

KEA is talking about the shelf method,like this

I do it sometimes,like on the one in the pic,but more often than not I just do the shim method.

[demonx]

Too fenderish for me!

[westhemann]

Actually,all of the major manufacturers do it,including Jackson USA,ESP Japan...you name it they do it.

But the shim method is easiest.I almost always go for the shelf first,and then if I stuff it up I do the shim thing.The shelf is not really superior in any way obviously,it is more of a "can I do it" sort of challenge.Involves a lot of math and jig work.

[killemall8]

Thanks for the responses.

the picture Wes posted was what i was thinking of.

I figured shims were involved, but i feel it looks a lot cleaner with the shelf routed on the actual fretboard.

[pan_kara]

I don't have experience since I'm just building my first guitar with a locking nut but the way I was thinking to do this was to route the shelf before radiusing the board, trying to stay on the safe side i.e. not going to deep, and then just bring the thickness down with files/sandpaper when setting the guitar up.