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Epoxy Vs Wood Glue


bob123

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I use epoxy quite a bit. There are some cases where it has advantages over wood glue such as not introducing water to a fretboard neck joint and it normally does a better job bonding oily woods. In test results I have seen, epoxy usually shows a little better bond strength. That being said it is not a significant difference and epoxy is water proof and seals pores deeply. If you plan to dye or stain, you have to clean epoxy out of the pores by sanding past it. Titebond I is recommended because it is made to join wood specifically and it cleans up with water. And you don't have to worry about mixing the correct amounts thoroughly. Epoxy joints can still be opened with heat.

Always go with a slow cure type for the best strength.

This can be and has been endlessly debateable in terms of which is best. Bottom line is epoxy can be used for the entire instrument and result in perfectly fine high end guitar. It does have a steeper learning curve....by which I mean there are more oportunities to get it wrong with epoxy.

SR

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You need to search the forum on this. We have debated this to the 9th degree.

I will say Scott has it covered.

I will add that all epoxies are not created equal. The 2 part 5 minute epoxies you get from the big box stores are not the best for guitar work. Of the lower cost epoxies I have used Z-poxy and had decent results for cosmetic things. Structurally I only use West Systems. It is a serious epoxy.

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I've been using West Systems epoxy for quite a while now. I like it because I can control the viscosity with an additive. You can thicken it right up to a paste consistency if you want and it won't change its ability to stick. You can also mix it with wood dusts like ebony, rosewood and even maple and because the base is clear it can blend right in. Try doing that with ANY wood glue. I guess the big argument for the die-hard hide glue people is that you can't readily "unstick" epoxy...why the hell would I want to do that!!??

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Most die hard hide glue people are used to working on acoustic instruments. Having to remove things like bridges, braces and even necks can be a normal part of repair due to the wood changes over time. The ability to cleanly undo a hide glue joint is important in that field. That said, the luthier who is advising me on my aluminum bass rebuild told me to use West epoxy on the cracked neck block as that was a joint I will never want to undo.

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I regards epoxy as a mechanical glue as its gap filling properties also work as part of the adhesion process. Wood glue requires perfectly mated faces any gap filling should be avoided. I agree that Scott concisely stated the case well. This dead horse has been so beaten much it has spread into a thin film.

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