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Knightro Guitars 2016


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Easy to hide; turn the end of the fretboard into an S curve to distract from the shape. There are enough curves elsewhere to make this unobtrusive! :peace

This one's always been my favourite. Not to hide anything as such, however I enjoyed leaving a partial fret.

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1 hour ago, KnightroExpress said:

Thank you so much, everyone! 

Maybe on the next one I'll just extend the treble side of the fretboard to meet the pickup cavity and add a partial 25th fret. That's one more, innit? 

I wanted to suggest that but I couldn't find the right way to say it,

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Alright, time to get back to work. Tonight, I test-installed the hardware and strung the guitar up. This allows me to ensure that the neck alignment is good, plus I use the Katana fret leveling system, which works under string tension. 

On to pics! And wouldn't you know it, everything lines up properly.

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Setting relief and Katana leveling

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Now I have to drill the mounting holes for my machine screw inserts. Say goodbye to stripped holes!

As ever, I start with a template and use a transfer punch to locate the drill locations.

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Drilling for the flange, then the body.

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Pressed in with a bit of CA to anchor everything

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Matching wenge cavity cover

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And of course, some full body shots to round out the evening.

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I still need to get the fretwork all squared away, then I can move on to final sanding. I can't wait to get some oil on this guitar!

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Scott- Essentially, it's an aluminum beam with a truss rod inside and abrasive along the bottom edge. The idea is that you dial in the proper relief under actual string tension, then adjust the Katana to match your neck's curve. Once everything matches, the Katana slips between each pair of strings and you just slide it along the string path to level the frets. The process is repeated for each string pair until you've leveled everything across the board.

Carl- Ok, I'll write one. The dancing pirate banana is very convincing!

I took a bunch of pictures of the process with the intent of writing about it, so hopefully I can get that going this weekend.

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I'd also interested to see how that katana works... :) 

I think that small tripod adds an extra relief to the neck, due to the weight of the body... I'd say it's better if you level with the neck in the air or at least avoid any support which raises the body.

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3 hours ago, KnightroExpress said:

Scott- Essentially, it's an aluminum beam with a truss rod inside and abrasive along the bottom edge. The idea is that you dial in the proper relief under actual string tension, then adjust the Katana to match your neck's curve. Once everything matches, the Katana slips between each pair of strings and you just slide it along the string path to level the frets. The process is repeated for each string pair until you've leveled everything across the board.

Carl- Ok, I'll write one. The dancing pirate banana is very convincing!

I took a bunch of pictures of the process with the intent of writing about it, so hopefully I can get that going this weekend.

 

"Convincing dancing banana pirate is convincing"

It would be great to read your opinions on how it worked as part of the build once this is past the finishing post really. They're a high ticket tool, and need to provide return that justifies the outlay. I'm on the fence with this. Banana pirate might convince you, however you need to convince us. :barnarnar:

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Hahaha, I'm not sure if I can match banana pirate's persuasive power (or dance moves!).

Really though, I've already used the Katana on the red guitar. I had good results with no buzzing, but I don't think they're any better than any other properly done fret level. It's got a nice 'gee whiz' factor and I like using it,  but if you've already got a process that works well for you, I think you could make better use of 200 bucks.

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