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SG project - The T.N.T


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Ohhhhh, today was a nice, balmy 10 degrees. Snow down to about 200 metres above sea level. Everyone here is strolling around in shorts and sandals and heading to the beach for a quick tan and a game of beach cricket.

26 degrees? Bah! That's a comfortable spring day for us.

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Yikes, you guys are weird. I'd be arse first in the freezer section of the nearest supermarket.

26°C and 68% humidity today. It's punishing work in the shop. More work spent refining the bevels so the entire body will be more or less around the 240 grit mark and almost fully shaped, pending any fine tuning. End grain - as always - need ten times more work than side/face grain. Sandpaper has chowdered up my fingers too....ergh....

The wood is regularly wiped down with alcohol to draw out loose dust and lightly raise any loose fibres, unlike water which directly swells all surface fibres, loose or not. Rubbing a high grit pad (600) over the surfaces raises enough dust and deposits it into any low-grit scratches that need further attention. A neat little trick for working out of order with the grits.

IMG_8160.jpg

 

The bevelling is deliberately being kept very sharp so that I can keep their geometry and balance in check. If the edges were rounded over from hand sanding, any inconsistencies would come back to haunt me later in the game. My three sanding cauls of choice are an oval carpenter's pencil (~1cm x 0,5cm?), a kid's glue stick (about 1" diameter) and a cylindrical offcut from a bit of lathe work which is about 40mm diameter.

In my opinion, the upper cutaway is a little strong and the lower cutaway could do with deepening. It's all much of a muchness, and certainly Gibson never really had any sort of reasonable standard. I'll work with how it balances out within the workpiece, which is a far wiser approach than slavish copying to something which has never had any sort of standard.

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16 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Yikes, you guys are weird. I'd be arse first in the freezer section of the nearest supermarket.

26 degrees is nuthin'. Hottest day on record in Australia is 50.7 degC at Oodnadatta in South Australia.

Adelaide, Alice Springs, Darwin, Mebourne etc regularly get over 40 in summer.

Typical "hot" day in summer for us Taswegians would be mid 30s. Hottest day in the part of Tas I live in was in January 2013 (41.8). That was pretty hard going.

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You've got to watch the temps and humidity! Especially here when it gets deathly cold and dry in winter, and swimming in sweat and tears during summer. It's crucial in predicting what your wood is going to do when reacting to changes in atmospheric humidity. I need to monitor my unregulated workspace better, however the simple fact that it's high humidity and high temps doesn't do good things for wood if you're dimensioning it.

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  • 5 months later...

This one (like everything I do) has gotten a bit long in the tooth, however I've decided upon and sourced the big pricy bits. Firstly, I have had my friend Veijo Rautia over in Joensuu spec me up a slightly hotter than 70's T-Top style humbucker to be fitted into a nickel cover:

http://www.rautiaguitars.net/t-top--70s.html

Veijo is one of those pickup makers who seems to fly under the radar a little, but that's fine. It allows him to produce fine pickup repros without having to reduce quality (or hike prices) due to an overage of demand, and does everything hands on to what the customer needs. He's been producing reproduction Aria Pro II bass pickups for many years now alongside my reproduction preamps. Funny that we're both in Finland, and sort of fell into being the de facto Aria Pro II bass aftermarket electronics guys.

Anyway. I'm also having an acrylic template made up for the pickguard which I'd transfer into some BWB sheet, or (if I can source it within the EU) the original BWBWB.

Once I can get somebody to turn me some metal stylii on the lathe for the pantograph, I'll inlay the headplate.

Waiting on getting some grain filler and dyes in before doing some test pieces for colour. I'll likely stain dark red, seal with a 1lb cut of shellac, grain fill with near-Ebony filler with some dark brown added and then start with the French polishing.

The choice of electronics needs to be a wise one. The volume needs to roll off nicely so that the DSL-5C that I (still haven't) bought Nina will break up for that classic bluesy Angus sound.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've slowly been gathering the required materials to finish this one up. Instead of using blonde shellac flakes, I decided to buy some garnet instead to add in a little more warmth to the final finish. After looking at a few samples, a slightly more cinnamon red than black cherry seems the order of the day.

@Andyjr1515 - I just got three tubs of Brummer rub-in grain filler; Ebony, white and dark Mahogany. It might be worth looking into yourself.

So, I did a bit of a test piece. This is not the final order of doing things, since the first step would be dyeing. Nonetheless, I wanted to know what straight Ebony grain filler looked like and whether mixing it with the dark Mahogany might be in order.

IMG_8725.JPG

 

I like it. That's some very nice contrast! So the usual order of finishing is to dye (alcohol-based pref.) before sealing with say, a 1lb cut of shellac, then grain filling, before final clearcoating; in this case French polishing. I'm very much thinking that this order could be changed up a little bit, however I'd need to test the exact process prior to committing. Essentially, grain filling on bare wood and then dye. If the dye doesn't interfere with the grain filler, great. The rest of the process can then be followed as French polishing with no need to add in intermediate sealing coats.

My insistence on breaking with the established method is that it removes the need for me sanding back the grain filler from over the dyed and sealed surface. Whilst I can't imagine it would be as precarious as it sounds, I also think that the grain filler has more contrast to add when working straight from the wood; even a 1lb cut of shellac will close up some of the tiniest pores and grain lines. It will need more work when sanding back the grain filler to ensure that the surface isn't left with "a dirty look". Perhaps the end grain might be more problematic with this proposed schedule. Best to test.

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Me too. I forgot to add that I received the custom wound pickup from Veijo Rautia this week. It should be nice; a little hotter than a PAF with an AlNiCo-V bar mag. Perfect for the situation....can't wait to hear how it sounds. Test track will HAVE to be La Grange. :lol:

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