curtisa Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 11 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: I saw a tin of 'wipe on poly' in one of the photos. Is that standard polyurethane varnish? I ask simply because I find the latter to be completely unreactive. When I used enamel for the Mouradian-style bass (and, by the way, I'm never going to use enamel again!) and it did this simply from the second coat of the same product (yes, quite...) I found that wipe on poly acted as a complete block to the reaction. Maybe use that after the swirl coat to 'fix' it and then clear spray over the poly? Or just clear coat with the poly? That's the stuff I use on necks. And yes, it's a polyurethane wiping varnish. It goes on satin, but if you build it up over 8+ coats it becomes semi-gloss, which I quite like the feel of. Kinda like a satin finished neck that's been played in for a few years. It is quite yellowing though, so it would've been a definite nono over the swirl. The blues and blacks might have survived, but the whites would've gone cream, which is not what I was aiming for. Unlike what happened to it when I cleared it. That was totally what I was aiming for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 5 hours ago, Prostheta said: t seems that avoiding enamel is the key. Not that this helps @curtisa after the fact. Remind me when I next want to build a guitar that I do not, in fact, want to build a guitar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 And now for something completely different Metallic blue with black spiderwebbing. It's not going to be as outlandish as the swirl was, but I'm happy enough with it. And more importantly, the paints are compatible with the clear. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 I kind of understand how that effect is done, however I guess that there is more to it than meets the eye in getting it right....? Do tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdogg Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 I would also like to know how this is done. looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Nothing special. It's a special spray can marketed as marble effect paint, but looks nothing like marble in practice. Only comes in black or white. Down here it's made by Dulux, but north of the equator I think Montana make a similar product. Comes out of the can like crazy string and makes a helluva mess, so you have to work fast. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 so its basically the blue first and then the black stuff goes over it? looks really cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks. And yes, you've got it in one - spray base colour, then spray spiderwebbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Huh! Now that's new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted March 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Finally back on track with this one, although not without a couple of hurdles to overcome (yet again). The spiderwebbing/marble effect layer isn't actually a full coat of paint, with each strand of black being slightly raised off the surface of the base coat. So in order for the whole lot to appear as level you have to lay a few coats of clear down, block it all back being careful not to go through to the base coat, and then build up more layers of clear: These couple of shots outside are perhaps more true to the actual colour. Being metallic, it's not surprisingly difficult to get a good shot of it. I think I'm starting to feel more satisfied with the outcome now: Will let it sit for a couple of weeks to cure fully and then wet sand and buff out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 2 hours ago, curtisa said: Finally back on track with this one, although not without a couple of hurdles to overcome (yet again). The spiderwebbing/marble effect layer isn't actually a full coat of paint, with each strand of black being slightly raised off the surface of the base coat. So in order for the whole lot to appear as level you have to lay a few coats of clear down, block it all back being careful not to go through to the base coat, and then build up more layers of clear: These couple of shots outside are perhaps more true to the actual colour. Being metallic, it's not surprisingly difficult to get a good shot of it. I think I'm starting to feel more satisfied with the outcome now: Will let it sit for a couple of weeks to cure fully and then wet sand and buff out. I just LOVE that . The colour and effect goes exceptionally well with the shape of the body. There are some builds you see where you think 'I REALLY want that guitar!!!' This has just leapt manfully into that category Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted March 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Cheers Andy. If the postage wasn't such a killer, it'd be on its way to you so you can finish it off for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post curtisa Posted June 1, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Just realised I've had this sitting around finished for some time now, so without further ado I give you the following: Needless to say, I'll be steering clear of painted finishes for a while now. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 it did come out lovely however, after all the fuss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 wow that looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Very cool Andrew, very futuristic looking. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Thanks chaps. Glad to see the end of this one. The finish still has some issues, but I'd rather close this one off and have a playable instrument than spend even more time battling with it. 1 hour ago, ScottR said: Very cool Andrew, very futuristic looking. Well, I do live in GMT+10... In a few weeks time there's a Delorean DMC12 going under the hammer down here. Maybe I should place a bid and wind up the flux capacitor to bring this future technology back for you to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 4, 2017 Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 Since I know you're a man of many instruments Andrew, what do you think that this addition brings to the available palette? Any chance of an objective opinion on the finished item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.neckel013 Posted June 4, 2017 Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 And the headache ended successfully! Congratulations Curtisa, great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 On 6/2/2017 at 5:39 PM, curtisa said: Well, I do live in GMT+10... You need to figure out how to make that work for you. Maybe you could have seen the finish problem in time to avoid it.... SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 On 6/5/2017 at 1:39 AM, Prostheta said: Since I know you're a man of many instruments Andrew, what do you think that this addition brings to the available palette? Any chance of an objective opinion on the finished item? It's a shame the finish is still giving me grief, because it's actually one of the better sounding instruments I've done. I was prepared for the X-bar pickups to be quite bright and detailed, but they've turned out to be more restrained and "traditional" sounding. It's been a nice surprise actually. 8 hours ago, ScottR said: You need to figure out how to make that work for you. Maybe you could have seen the finish problem in time to avoid it.... I'd be concerned about accidentally changing the course of history if I did that. Butterfly flapping it's wings over in America causes tidal waves in France, and all that... This is all getting a bit Doctor-Who-Grandfather-Paradox for me on a Tuesday morning.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucius Paisley Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 On 8/14/2016 at 5:46 PM, curtisa said: Anyone know what to do with all these wires? These Fishmans are actually pretty well equipped in terms of options. Out of the box you get the usual plug-in type connectors to get things going with basic EMG-esque ground/9V/signal terminals for each pickup. But then they throw in extra cables for each pickup to allow you to switch between two voicing options, a low gain option and a high frequency cut. On the back of each pickup they also include solder pads that allow you to split the coils aswell. Pretty neat. Sorry to jump onto an old thread (and for not knowing how to transfer this topic to the correct help forum) , but I recently purchased a Fishman Fluence Modern Humbucker (bridge ceramic) and am not 100% certain how to wire it up correctly based on the instructions that came in the box, which assumes I've also got the corresponding neck pickup and way more control pots than I do. From what I can see of your configuration, you have the volume/push-pull and toggle switch, which is very similar to what I'm after, but I'm left with the predicament of "where do I go from here?". So far, this is my attempt at figuring out a working diagram... Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 What do you want to achieve with the pickups? They offer a number of different voicing options depending on which wires you connect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucius Paisley Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 4 hours ago, curtisa said: What do you want to achieve with the pickups? They offer a number of different voicing options depending on which wires you connect. I just want the two basic voices associated with the single pickup as seen "plugged in" per the diagram, voice 1/voice 2, no coil tapping or split coil or whatever you want to call it. And for the pickup to just have the one control i.e. volume. (If you can call it) Basically, I'm trying to emulate the Balsac Schecter Jaw guitar configuration, but going in "blind" as I've not heard the guitar on it's own. It also as a kill toggle, but I already now how to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 You mean the diagram you provided minus the tone control? Delete the tone pot and tone cap, and transfer any remaining connection that was previously assigned to the tone pot to the new push-pull volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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