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Maple & Mahogany DC


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In responce to a question from GregP:

I posted nearly complete pics in GOTM in March, and have finally got round to re-lacquering the neck (I needed to pore fill again) and fitting the electrics. There should be some final pics soon, when I get the neck and head buffed out, but for now, here's some in progress pics.

This is the setup I used to cut the neck profile - a DIY router table, which is ugly as hell, but did the job.

01_routertable.jpg

Here I'm trimming the centre of the neck to final proportions with the trusty Stanley spokeshave. The neck lams are mahogany/padauk/mahogany. Some folks have reported trouble with the cheap stanley spokeshaves, but this one's a champ, and gets a lot of use for neck shaping and top carving.

02_spokeshave.jpg

Here's a shot of the rough profile of the volute - which was shaped to this state with a drill mounted drum sander - Never again! The stand flexes like crazy, and nothing remains square, next time I'll pop down to the uni' workshop and use their spindle sander.

03_volute.jpg

Here's a shot of the rough cut neck with the rest of the lumber I'm using - mahogany body, and flamey maple cap, and after that, a shot of the body blank clamped up prior to chambering.

04_woods.jpg

05_joiningbody.jpg

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Once the body blank had dried and was planed flat, I began chambering with a 1" forstner bit in my crappy drill stand. Look ma - it's swiss cheese!

06_chamberrough01.jpg

The chambers were tidied up with a router, first cutting freehand to establish the perimeter, then plunging deeper with a bearing bit until the swiss cheese is all gone. This is the final result - plus the template for the body to be routed to final shape.

07_sandwich.jpg

With the chambering complete I was ready to proced to glueing on the maple cap. Like GregP my top was slightly cupped, but I found that hand pressure was more than enough to force the cup out, so I had no qualms about going ahead with the glueup. Here's all my clamps having one of their rare meetings...

08_sqeezeout.jpg

now, a bit of a jump ahead, since I didn't take pics of the binding or top carving (no free hands!)

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Here's the guitar wiped down with water after the top has been rough carved and the binding fitted.

09_bodywet.jpg10_hornbinding.jpg

Back to the neck...

Here's the volute rough shaped - I used a rasp and cabinet scrapers to get the shape, shaping just the heel and peghead areas, so that the rest of the neck remains square for easier attachment of the fretboard (which I do after the neck is set on the body, and after fretting the board).

11_volutecarved.jpg

Here's a shot of the top carved to it's final shape, and given a seal coat of shellac. The neck is glued in, but the board is still unfretted and unglued, though the abalone dot markers have been installed.

12_unfretted.jpg

Finally, here are the pics you've seen before. The guitar is laquered awaiting buffing, and still needs the electrics fitting. I was delayed for several weeks by the need to relacquer the neck, and a problem getting lacquer from my local supplier. I also need to order new pots, since I accidentally destroyed my last set when I tried to remove my hand made knobs! They work, but the pot shafts come out of the pot, rather than the knobs coming off the shaft, which is fatal in a push/pull pot :D

13_glossy.jpg

13_glossyback.jpg

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Sweetness! I'm glad to hear the maple top worked out-- the cupping on mine is also easily relieved with hand pressure.

I know you said you don't have pics-- but what tool did you use for the rabet for the binding? A specialty tool, a router/jig, a router with a special bit?

Man that's a great-looking axe... I can't wait to see the final product.

Greg

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I have two binding bits, both inexpensive and homemade(ish). The first I got from a router cutter set, the kind which comes with most basic routing outfits. These sets always include a laminate trimmer bit with bottom mounted bearing, and a few profile bits, like ovolo, 45 degree bevel etc. To get a cheap binding bit simply remove the .5" bearing from the flush trim bit, and replace it with the smaller bearing from one of the profile bits. This yields a rebate about 1.5mm deep, ideal for most single ply bindings.

The second is a 38mm diameter rebate bit with homemade bushings for the bearing. I make these out of MDF and press fit them over the bearing on the bit. By turning different diameter bushings on a lathe you can get any size rebate you want. However, the larger diameter leads to easy burning, so you need to run it at low speed.

**Edit**

Here's the pic.

binding_bits.jpg

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setch, I love your double-cuts! they are simply the nicest. I think the gibson double cut style is one of the best designs ever as well.

Ps, do you have a website?

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Thanks everyone :D

It is indeed wired up, and has been for a few weeks now, just with a dimply neck. It sounds great, very articulate and rich, both in humbucking mode and (before I KO'ed the pull pot) single coil mode. The chambers give it a great controllable feedback which is nice to play with, but easy to tame if it gets piercing.

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The padauk on the body is an inaly, about 5mm thick. I added it, along with the rear binding to disguise the addition of a new mahogany back, which in turn served to conceal the grafting on of a new treble side horn to repair a router tearout which I was unhappy with.

If you look very close in the waist of the instrument you can just make out a line where the new horn is grafted on.

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Nice make-shiftery with the router bits! Even without using either of those 'designs' per se, it shows that you can make something new with what you have instead of forking over another small stack of cash for specialty items.

Not that I wouldn't mind the specialty item instead. :D I'll have to look-see what bits and bushings/bearings I have access to.

Again... kick-ass guitar!

Thanks,

Greg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Being a big fan of the Hamer doublecuts, your guitar naturally inspires a great deal of lust in my heart. That thing is BEAUTIFUL! What kind of bridge is that? It looks like a first cousin to the Hamer sustain block hardtails. That is a superbly finished and detailed guitar.

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