El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Well.....bottom line, I owe a bunch of folks thanks for help on this project. It hasn't been easy, and I've made a bunch of mistakes. This sucker has seriously cut into my practice time, but it has all been worth it. Special thanks to Jehle, who had won GOTM when I first visited the site, and provided some serious inspiration in several areas with the "Jehlecaster". Thanks to Brain for some parts, and Croaticum for finishing ideas. Finally, thanks to everyone who keeps this site moving forward as the best site to get ideas and advice on building guitars. The Specs: Body: Alder, Copper Tone Metallic (from the Reranch) with "Black Album Flames" (The flames are in the clear, you can see them up close (a little in the pictures) but they are meant to be subtle, and you think the guitar is just CTM from a distance) Cream Binding Neck: 25 1/2 in. scale, 16 in. radius fretboard, Maple with Rosewood fingerboard, frets 19-24 scalloped Joe Satriani Autograph on back of headstock, satin finish, custom headstock decal Hardware: Schaller locking tuners, earvana nut, Wilkinson Trem, single coil and humbucking pickup rings from stew mac, Fender "Big F" neck plate (I grew up in Fullerton, CA, the birthplace of Fender, had to give the nod), pickup covers are copper foil inside clear acryllic. Electronics: All Duncan Pickups; Cool Rails in neck, Twang Banger in middle (I wanted to get close to a tele bridge p/u, so I mounted it as close as I could get it to the bridge and slanted it, should help get that "Albert Lee" tone), Duncan Custom in the bridge. Graph Tech Ghost piezo system on the trem (I had to drill trough the bridge plate to route the wires from the saddles, and file channels in the trem route to keep the trem from pinching the wires. I put a thin piece of clear plastic to keep the wires in their channels. The connector block sits under the trem springs). Switching is as follows; Three way selects each pickup individually(I used the one that they have on Gibson SG Customs and the LPs with the three humbuckers) A push-pull on the volume turns the neck on and off (this way I can get the bridge/neck combo as well as neck/middle if I ever wanted it) A concentric pot does master tone and piezo volume duties. Finally, the Graph Tech quickswitch lets me select magnetic p/u, piezo, or both. Now the pics..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 COOL guit! How do the flames work? I'm not sure I get it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis P Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 no offence intended, but to me, i would have done the flames one shade darker along the edges and i personally, dont like that top horn Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 The flames are in nitro, and my hand isn't steady enough to do any kind of pinstriping, so I had to go with what I went with. The flames are much more visible in person....one of those things that doesn't come across well on camera. Not surprised about the body shape comments; most folks have a strong reaction to Parker-style bodies one way or the other. Nonetheless, I appreciate you taking the time to leave some feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKGBass Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 curtis it's modelled after a parker, and i think it looks killer! is that a real Satch autograph? if so, what'd he thing of the guitar?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Real Satch autograph, got it at the Dallas Guitar Show. He did a set of some of the tunes off the Is There Love in Space? album and a few oldies (Satch Boogie, etc.) He then did a signing at the Peavy booth. I only had the neck with me, to make it easier to get around. No comment from Satch on the neck. Thanks! for the comments again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefm Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I think I see the flames....but too me it just makes it look like the paint is screwed up?? I like the body style....and the copper foil on the clear acryllic is awesome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litchfield Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Very impressive. I wou8ld have done more of an AANJ but nonetheless, great job. Why not ghost flames tho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I think it ROCKS and I like the body design plus I know not everyone's into AANJ's these days. My first reaction was Parker meets Tele and does a meet n greet with PRS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Thanks, for all the comments! Well, the paint isn't screwed up, but I could do a whole thread on what I learned about finishing doing this guitar. It's still my weakest point. I followed the instructions of the Reranch to the letter. Still, not even I am totally satisfied. I guess if we were all perfect out of the gate, we wouldn't be building so many guitars. I've already started collecting ideas for the next. I was worried that the ghost flames would be too complex(I had already screwed up enough stuff) and also overbearing for the final look of the guitar. I was going for subtle/shred. As far as the AANJ goes, in some ways, I wish I had done one instead. No doubt that it gives the best access on a 24 fretter. However, I also really wanted to use the "Big F" neck plate. That tied my hands somewhat. I "had" to give that nod to Fender, after having grown up in Fullerton. No doubt she's not perfect, but I was going for different, and wanted to meet some requirements I had for my playing. Maybe a bit too complex for a first build, but I took my time best as I could; spent six months building it. I was overjoyed to find out that she sounds great, and may easily overtake my #1 slot. I made it to play, so I can't really be upset with the outcome there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Nice job dangerman!!! It's not that often that you see someone build a parker style body (I don't actually ever remember seeing one here) so I give you lots of credit for choosing to do it. Unfortunately, you're always going to have some people who don't care for the body shape, headstock, ... but you can't please everyone. Are you happy with the logos? I tried the transparency method a few months ago and it turned out to be a real nightmare. It looked good at first but it took gobs of nitro to finally cover the thickness. Once it was covered, the lines never dissapeared and it looked horrible. I ended up switching to a stencil/paint logo and I'm very happy with that. Real easy and quick. Your logo looks like it came out much better than mine (I'm assuming you used the transparency method). Do you have another guitar planned yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Speical thanks to me? You are more than welcome! I love the look of the body and the binding, the finish, the pickup config (a respectful nod to the jellycaster!). You have just made my day! Brilliant work and great pictures of the detail. Nice job!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Nice job dangerman!!! It's not that often that you see someone build a parker style body (I don't actually ever remember seeing one here) so I give you lots of credit for choosing to do it. Unfortunately, you're always going to have some people who don't care for the body shape, headstock, ... but you can't please everyone. Are you happy with the logos? I tried the transparency method a few months ago and it turned out to be a real nightmare. It looked good at first but it took gobs of nitro to finally cover the thickness. Once it was covered, the lines never dissapeared and it looked horrible. I ended up switching to a stencil/paint logo and I'm very happy with that. Real easy and quick. Your logo looks like it came out much better than mine (I'm assuming you used the transparency method). Do you have another guitar planned yet? That's the problem with that method. If I ever do that again, which I owe it to myself to try, I would trim the transparency as close to the design as possible. I would treat it almost like an inlay. I have noticed that using Polyurethane covered better and hid the lines a little better. Still at the right angle you can still see that edge. Ah well, at the time it worked for what I needed it for. The method isn't perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Actually, yours looks great. I think Danger's looks great also. I just wasn't able to get the same results. I'm kinda glad it worked out that way though becaue I ended up with a real quick and good looking method in the end. I think for most hobby builders, your transparency method is an excellent way to go if you can execute it properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 You CAN still see the lines a little. You have to be up close. I think that one falls in the "good enough for government work" category. I used approx. 80% of a can of nitro to get to that point. I'm pretty impatient by nature, and just about everything in this project tested me to the limit. I think one thing that might help besides cutting it close as possible, is taking a piece of scrap and cutting it to the same shape. You could use some double sided tape and "mask" the decal. Once you get some buildup with the nitro or poly, you could pull the mask, and then you could avoid having to get a huge buildup and then sand back to keep the area around the decal from being "proud" of the rest of the headstock. Bottom line, I think it's the best way to get that Fender-looking decal with the metal pen letters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 I can't see the flames but it doesn't matter that guitar looks awsome anyway, I like the Parker style and it looks better with a fuller headstock than with the skinny Fly one. The use of the earvana, does it do all that they say, or is it hipe? An I like the way you matched the satin look on the tunners and the trem, not everybody takes that much attention to detail, most will order the chromed tunners, I love satin steel and black chrome parts, they have more character than chrome or gold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 The Earvana really helps with the open chords. Using the Piezo, you can really hear it. As far as intonation across the rest of the neck, it says it helps, but I have a hard time telling a huge difference. I tried to do everything in satin, but it wasn't to be. Some parts I could only get in straight chrome. Satin chrome/nickel is my favorite finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Very cool... i'd love to hear some sound clips! I would have made some different design decisions if it were my guitar, but it's not, so i'll just keep my opinions to myself. I've squinted at every one of those photos, and i can't see any evidence of flames of any kind. Am i blind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Let's hear the opinions...after four years at West Point and six in the Army, my hide is bulletproof, let alone thick. As for the flames in the pictures, they are hard to see. In the first one, look at the "Parker carve" by the top horn; you can see the edge of one of the flames. In the third down, if you follow the side of the trem out you can see the body of one of the tips. You can pick it up if you look at the edge between the shade and sun. Hard to see, I know. I'll try and get some better pics of the flames.....just one of those things that are hard to pick up on camera. If you're ever in DFW, let me know, you can stop by to see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Let's hear the opinions...after four years at West Point and six in the Army, my hide is bulletproof, let alone thick. Okay, here goes... The headstock design and body design really don't go well together, in my opinion. The body design is progressive and needs something a little less traditional for the head. The body does look a little more 'chubby' than a Parker, but i still find that neck and headstock a little odd. I really don't like where you ended the binding. I would have continued the upper horn binding into the carve, and brought the tummy cut binding a bit further along that edge to where it meets the upper horn. Big plastic dot inlays make me cry. As do big chrome mounting rings for single-coil pickups. That said, the colour rocks, and i'm happy to see someone making something a little different and somewhat original, and not just 'yet another strat/tele/les paul/prs copy.' As for the flames in the pictures, they are hard to see. In the first one, look at the "Parker carve" by the top horn; you can see the edge of one of the flames. In the third down, if you follow the side of the trem out you can see the body of one of the tips. You can pick it up if you look at the edge between the shade and sun. Nope. Still can't see 'em. I've even taken the images into Photoshop to try and enhance the contrast or the colour to try and get them to stand out. no dice. I can sometimes *barely* see something that looks like it might be flames between the neck and middle pickups, but can't be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 This may or may not surprise you, but I'm totally with you on the binding. I had no choice with the tummy cut, that was driven by a tool limitation, but I wish I would have taken the horn binding farther too. That's why there's always a next time. I guess the headstock/body thing doesn't bother me as much, but I see what you're talking about. I tought about something else, but I wanted room for a decal, and, what can I say, I went unoriginal. On the dots, if I had it to do all over again, I would do it with them pushed over to the bass side, but I love the pickup covers. The chrome/black was a repeating thing I was going for. I appreciate the comments. It's really helping fuel my thoughts for the next one. Thanks! As for the flames, the offer stands to see it in person, and like I said, I'll try and get some better pics of 'em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 ... big chrome mounting rings for single-coil pickups. ... BTW, did you recess the chrome mounting rings? It looks like it in the picture and I really like that effect. I have half a mind to try that. It's a nice clean look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted July 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 Yes, I used the Dremel with a (obviously) small routing bit, and a routing base. Stew Mac's is great, but I opted for the Dremel one for half the price. Routed out that small bit perfectly. I agree, the recess-mount is a good, clean look, and only a bit more work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 After reading some more I will agree with the chrome rings, What about taking them out, going to your local auto shop and have them sand blasted with glass or a small media and match the look of the tunners and the trem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 If not sandblasting them, they could tell you a way to get a satin finish. Then tell us how to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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