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jay5

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Everything posted by jay5

  1. Cud, I would love to see a pic of the spray booth. What is your spray setup?
  2. Any "one off" guitar is hardly going to fall into the realm of reasonably priced im afraid. Like Greg said, several thousands of dollars (1,500+ at least). For that money, you could buy most if not all of the tools needed to make that type of guitar as well as wood. A tele is a pretty easy guitar to build with the right tools and a little knowhow. I would certainly spend the money that way.
  3. I have never been one to favor spalted wood but it has some interesting figure. I have never heard of fir being used as a tone wood
  4. I have had good slotted boards from both LMI and Stewmac. I would definately go that rout if it was my project. Not much advantage in sloting your own unless you really want to do EVERYTHING your self. I would get it pre-radiused as well if it were me. Body looks grat!
  5. On a side note, I read a woodworking mag a while back that did a piece on "Cheap tools" where they tested them to see if they were worth a crap and to my surprise (and theirs) the HF router they tested did really well. They noted very minimal runout and good power. Their only complaint was above average vibration but said that it wasnt so bad to be a detriment. Now, how long can you expect this router to remain accurate is another question but you should be able to get enough use out of it until you are able to upgrade.
  6. Keep us updated on how your experiments go regarding this finish, Im really interested in seeing how it turns out!
  7. I believe that tru-oil is polemerized which helps it to form a harder finish.
  8. make sure you order fret wire with a matching "real thin" tang P.S. A coping saw is probably not a good idea.
  9. Where did you read that? If you are using a mortise/tenon style joint then yes, the pocket is technically thinner than the overall profile of the playing surface (fingerboard). Search for Setch's Les Paul build to see what im talking about. You dont have to go this route though, you could just do a full width pocket and not do anything widthwise to the neck. You will have to conider how much gluing surface you are going to have doing it this way though, especially on the treble side. Go to mykaguitars.com and look at any of his "in progress" galleries to see this type of neck joint.
  10. Is my understanding that typically machined parts are better than cast parts? Or is it all realitively the same at the end of the day?
  11. I would think that a 2" wide blank might be too thin, you need it to be at least as wide as the heel end of the neck. 2" will be too narrow.
  12. I like the idea, the aluminum pickguard will be a nice touch. I could do without the headstock shape though, kind of looks like an anteater. Whats more classic than a tele headstock? That aside, I really like what you have going on there, keep us up to date.
  13. Matt V. (guitarfrenzy) used one on his strat neck build. I imagine they have their uses.
  14. I know you mentioned it but how asymetrical are the upper curves in the waist? How do you plan to fix them?
  15. Hey Matt, I was waiting for you to start this. Thanks for the progress pics, be sure to keep us in the loop.
  16. Yeah it does look thick. Is that the final carve?
  17. I would think that cutting it would allow it to dry faster but Im not sure if that is always the best idea. If you bookmatch it and let it dry I imagine that the chances of it warping would be greater. This is just a guess though so I'll let Drak correct me if Im wrong.
  18. The "special" paint you are thinking of is probably some sort of shielding paint like THIS, It's not all that cheap if you're only doing one or two guitars. Copper tape would probably be a more economical route.
  19. Yeah, it is pretty cool stuff, not exactly applicable to the ameture but cool all the same.
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