The "sitting" comfort factor is the big one with a V, but depending on your playing style you can actually play seated classical-style with a Rhoads-styled V with just a bit of adjustment by putting the middle of the crook of the V so that it hugs right thigh (assuming a right-handed playing position)
Personally, if you can find the wood for it (as in a body blank large enough,) I'd recommend an Explorer-style guitar. It's a bit of my own internal bias for shapes, but they're actually incredibly comfortable to play. Upper-fret access is excellent, you have the same large back bout to rest your arm on that the V has that I find really locks the guitar to your body and moves the neck to the right playing position. Also, they actually stay on your leg if you play sitting down.
For pickups, I'd recommend active EMGs or Guitarheads Active humbuckers (you can get a set of them off of eBay for $80 or so) if you're really looking for clear, precise cleans and distorted tones... either an 81/85 or a 81/60 if you go EMGs. Seymour Duncan also makes actives, but I haven't tried them yet.
If you'd prefer passives, you can go with the time-tested (and at one point Mustaine's favorite) Duncan JB/Jazz combo, or perhaps a JB/'59 or a pair of Invaders.
If you go active (or extremely high-output), the wood and construction have a bit less of an effect on your tone. Alder and Basswood are very even-toned woods, with Alder being a bit brighter and harder. An all-mahogany guitar has a lot of "push" with actives, putting out a lot of every frequency band. I prefer maple necks for a little extra attack and stability (especially if you want to make a skinny flattish "shredder" neck) but you can easily make a carbon-fiber reinforced mahogany neck that's just as stable.
Also, if you're not sure you want a Floyd, DON'T PUT ONE ON. Use a wilkinson-style, Kahler, or even a Steinberger double-ball setup, but I can't honestly recommend a floyd. I love shred-style playing and my first project guitar had a Floyd. I ended up putting a Tremsetter on and rigging it so the lower two strings stayed unclamped so I could easily drop to D. Tuning up and changing tunings on those things is a pain in the butt. Hell, if it's only dive-bombs you want, put a Fender or Wilkinson-style bridge on there so that its baseplate is securely against the face of the guitar. It's incredibly stable that way.
The remainder of the "metal" accoutrements would probably include extra-large frets, a wider nut width (I'd go for either 1 11/16 or even wider... my friend has a guitar with a 7 string nut width modified to fit 6 strings, and it's incredibly nice for lead playing and bending.) Also, a flatter (14"-20") radius fingerboard is more comfortable for quicker runs in my opinion.
And of course a black paint job. If you go mahogany, I'd definitely recommend a black or dark red stain, but use a solid color for alder or basswood as they're not terribly pretty to look at usually.