Bmth Builder

Love the design, the headstock is subtle, yet metal! lol I think I would have the bottom horn curve round a bit more RGish, but thats just me...

If the peice is thick enough you can get an angle you of it with out having to scalf it, which is what I did as I dont really like the look of scalfs. The reason 15 is used it to exert a certain amount of tension over the nut, thats why strats have string trees, because the string angle doesnt provide enough tension, and so strings will pup out of their nut slots during playing. 40 degrees would be extreme and probably cause to much tension and there for wearing of the nut, and string breakages.

Overbending by hand and then using the radius to bend it back into 12" is working alright atm, my no means perfect though...

and sand paper, yeah thats all you need

ahaha lmao put in jain for stealing free sawdust, I'de love to belive that Sand paper does not require sand to work, it does not fire sand at the wood your thinking of a different process all together just go and buy a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper and rub it against the wood your using and hey presto saw dust! Its always better to use saw dust from the same peice of wood for colouring any way, over buying/stealing some in a shop. I fear this topic will loose sincerity...

Cyanide reminds me mostly of load/reload and the 'this i swear' bit sounds really suddent and out of place in the day that never comes and although they have a new bassist who has apparently contributed a lot, we see barely anything of him except that one riff in cyanide, hes pretty much pointless to this record. But we can rip this apart all day, I mean the fact Metallica are who they are will always mean that people speak negatively of them and judge their records, going over them with the finest of tooth combs so much more than any new artist is scrutinized today, and that bugs me. AJFA will always be my favourite record, the riffs, arrangement and progressive nature of that album is just mindblowing.

^ I think you need to take a chill pill lol I like the new album, its good, but I do agree the vocals suck! They arnt aggressive enough, its the only thing holding the album back IMO its like he doesnt want to blow his voice or something, there are times when he gets it right but most of the time hes just singing and I dont like it. There is also a big hoo har about the sound quality of the album, which should probably be fixed or haters will go on about it forever as with St Anger I dont think you can say 'their not metal any more' their **** albums aside, they still wrote 4 very good metal albums in the 80s, and they will always be the composers of those albums, and they will always play those songs live, so how can they not be metal any more? Its not like they've disowned their best material to star on pop idol is it.

Its not a bass you can clearly see on the plan it has 6 machine heads

There is a free fret placement calculator on the web that will print out templates, not sure where I got it though.

I'de love to see pics of everything you have, especially the spalted maple

These picutres are pretty bad, but I was wondering if any one could identify this wood, apparently its ash... link Cheers

Would it matter too much if the fret wire was not radiused at all before fretting?

Damn thats amazing! MOAR pics, bigger of the entire body please

I made this fret bender for a 12" radius http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/bender.htm but when I put the fret wire in and bend it to shape it just pops back out to semi straight again, how can I get it to keep the 12" shape? Do I have to clamp it on the caul for a while or something? Cheers

looks damn nice though!

Hey I'm trying to deepen some fret slots on an ebony fretboard, but small chips are coming out at the ends, now I have titebone, ebony dust, and black superglue, and I'm thinking its probably best to just use the superglue for small things like these? As its quick to dry? Its only the ends of the slots that need to go deeper (to follow the radius) so shall I do all one side of the slots, then turn the neck round and do the other side so that I am always cutting towards the center of the fretboard and should minimise chipping? Is there anything I can do to avoid it? Like running a peice of masking tape down the side of the fretboard or something? Cheers

That headstock is very, very ugly and in that link wez, dont you think hes overdone the pictures a little? Theres like a thousand lol

^ even though the joint is strong (lulz) the wood may be thin. and not strong and still break? and laminating can actually stop the twising and warping, as if one peice tries to move all the others keep it where it is. Could you counter the truss rod breaking the wood by back strapping the entire back of the fb with a veneer? Obviously thats too late on this build, but it would certainly help.

You will have to wire them on a different circuit to the guitars electronics, and the LEDs will need their own battery/power source, you could probably replace a pot with a push pull pot and use that to activiate it, or just its own simple toggle switch that will need installing somewhere on the body.

What about the grit at which I can just sand/polish by hand and the radius wont be changed by taking too much wood off? I'm at 600 atm, can I do 1200 by hand? Cheers all

Its silverline paper, pretty cheap, but seems to have worked well untill now... and its ebony, can that be wet sanded? The radius on the fret board is fine because Ive checked it against a 12" fretting caul. I didnt want to use sticky tape as what I have is quite tacky and I didnt want it to leave residue on the radius block, and I didnt think spray adhesive would (ooops) lol...

Hey, need some help before I ruin my fretboard lol My stew mac 12" radius block seems to be f**king up my sanding, I'm not sure why, but I think its because its dirty (spray on adhesive + ebony dust = a lot of manky crap on the surface) and when I use it to radius, small holes seem to ware through the sand paper, but only at the ends of the block not in the middle... What ever it is, its putting marks on my inlays in my fret board, like red inlay and then some ones pulling something sharp like small stone over it when I'm trying to sand. The marks buff out if I just use the sand paper in my hand, but not with the block, and its really anoying because its screwing up my inlays and I dont want to permantly mark my fretboard beyond repair. So how can I clean the block? Is this the problem? Is the sand paper clogging and thats the problem? at what grit is it safe to sand by hand with out a radius block and not have to worry about putting the radius out of shape? I think sanding by hand is probably the best solution, but I dont want to ruin the shape of the fretboard. Cheers

ngaa thats the agile 8 string design your copying right?

Hey I'm planning a build and I need to know the biggest dimensions of an explorer so I can get a big enough (spalted maple) top for it. Basically I'm looking for the X (width) & Y (length) of a standard explorer body. I'm not too sure on whether it has ever changed shape, but I'm just looking for the classic Gibson explorer/ ESP law suit model. Cheers

You must have pretty small nuts