RestorationAD

SO would it be better to leave some air space? maybe using some 1x2 runners instead of a solid board. Just asking I am going to be facing a similar situation with some of my tops shortly.

http://www.galleryhardwoods.com/

Axehandle will make them longer for you. I had him quote 39.00 for 24" blocks. Plenty long. Just email him and ask. He is now making them out of laminated maple and they are nice. He uses a CNC machine to cut them. Also long blocks can be put in vises. Then you move the neck instead of the block like Benedetto does in his "Making an Archtop" book.

Basically you will need to block up the old tremolo route and route a new one... the ZR is really different. I think there is a tutorial on PG about this... (didn't we just cover this the other day ). It is as much work as building a new body. I would say that aesthetically it would have to be painted after. Instead a brand spanking new Zebrawood RG would look nice then you can ebay the old low-pro edge and body together and make all your money and then some back.

As a biased owner of several 80's RGs I think the original edge might top it....\ As for the Z... Dude build a new guitar to go around it.

You can salvage the transistors, caps, and resistors from dead electronics. I ravaged a DVD Player for the transistors and caps. I am using an old logitec mouse wall wart. Dead pedals can provide pots and jacks. As for the car speakers... they are probably not going to sound good. You need a stiff cone with a shorter throw than a car speaker. You probably would do best going to a pawn shop or swap meet and looking for some old Jensen 8" loud speakers.

+1 I have a set of the Warmoth and they are just as good as my old Stew Mac set.

Email Hipshot. http://www.hipshotproducts.com/pages/contact They will send them to you.

+1. I did it once a long time ago... forever now I place my volume switch and drill straight through and look for the hole. BTW I really hate learning that way.... but if you don't break anything you aren't doing anything.

One hipshot 8 string spec. __Pro__ you ever gonna finish this? I am dying to see the finished product

I did look at this and you give me (at least an implied) recomendation that it is accurate. I'm full of fear at actually drilling or cutting the body yet, so I was looking for every cross-referencing measurement I could find. I shall place my trust in the guitar gods.... And thanks for this link!! I've been building templates off FR Original specs, making mods where it seemed appropriate. Of course, 'schaller.com' is just an ad site. Neck is all done, and body shape is cut, but I've been procrastinating anything further. Now, I'm running out of delays. The cutting soon will commence! I have used the Stew Mac calculator before and it works but I always double check before I cut/drill. I usually use the actual bridge and a pair of veneer calipers to check measurements. If you don't have the actual bridge the schematic drawing should be your reference. Good luck!

Using the StewMac scale calculator you should position your studs 24.204" (±0.030") for a 24.75" scale guitar with a Schaller Floyd Rose Locking Tremolo Complete Set. I realize you are looking for the distance but this tells you were to put it. StewMac calculator Recessing tremolos requires enough depth in the body blank. As for neck angle I use about 2 degrees but you should figure out exactly what you need. There is a tutorial on neck angle that is what you need. Neck Angle Tutorial The block is 1-5/8" (41.28mm) deep so if you recess it into your body 3/16" you will need to be at least 1 7/8" in the center of your body. Full Schematics of Schaller Tremolo

I have never been high enough to sound like Jimi.... I will say this. "Great guitarists can even make masonite sound good."

I like it. Can't wait for the finish... Our friend at soulmate should be flattered. I myself would like to build one (props Doug). Hopefully soon. How are your sinuses after working the Camphor?

Bravo... It is tough juggling many projects. I guess I would stand and clap at this point. Nice Workmanship. Don't rush and enjoy the process. I myself have 5 builds in the works so I can relate.

Not sober ... but Wes is right. The San Dimas Charvel is famous for the neck. It should be the fastest neck you have ever touched. I have played a few early 80's San Dimas Charvels and they were very very impressive... Warmoth could have made the neck as they ghost built for Charvel for a while.... still there is something about a real San Dimas Charvel. The body is not the important part. At the time you could not get the 1 11/16" nut width and 14" or 16" radius and Jumbo frets from Fender. Just my 2 cents...

Drak. Your teles are famous you must post pictures...

Make sure the old tools are sharp!!!

The expensive one.... http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Vises/Sh...r_Vise_Set.html The cheap one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=95357

Quick note on steaming...to temper your hopes. I am pretty sure it really only lifts dented spots. It is not going to help very much with missing chunks of wood. Good Luck!

if its a top loading bridge and also low profile then chances are that there is not enough downward pressure on the saddles when they are set to there lowest point. this is the problem with the schaller, and also kahlers when set with the saddles low - but any bridge where the string attaches only slightly lower than the saddle height may have issues... a common feature on toploaders that feed in from the back this can lead to problems such as the string popping out of place when strummed hard or just a general lack of tone. my point is that you should allow for this when deciding on neck angle. i made the mistake of measuring the schaller bridge height set to its lowest point and that is really not ideal for this style of bridge (works fine for most string through body bridges). a recess was a fix for it on a set neck guitar, a shim in the neck pocket would have fixed it with a bolt-on neck. better would be to have allowed for it from the start - which is what i learned from that guitar and a few others i have seen with similar problems since! i tend to recess kahlers anyway, but its really a decision based on how much neck angle i want +1 Agreed. With no neck angle at all I recessed the ABM about 1/8" never had issues with popping out or lack of down force on the saddles. I would say (without measuring) that you would like to plan a 1-2 degree neck angle with the ABM mounted flush. I recess all my bridges to keep the strings close to the body as personal preference.

I have a few of the ABM bridges and they are very high quality with good weight to them. Also sit very close to the body you might not need a recess.

+1 Play'em before you finish'em... seems crazy but actually saves work.

Good to know... so when I start radiusing before glueing I need to square - radius - slot to avoid tear out... Thanks

It is that silly Stew Mac Saw. They knew it stunk and have replaced it with this!!! Japanese_Fret_Saw More like the LMI model. I would buy one but I just got the table saw blade. BTW use the depth gauge to deepen the slots after you radius the fretboard. Nice Work!