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RestorationAD

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Everything posted by RestorationAD

  1. RestorationAD
    I used to get my wood at Charlotte Hardwoods when I lived there
  2. RestorationAD
    +1 for warmoth. never seen a bad neck from them. Love their stuff.
  3. RestorationAD
    If it is a clean break glue it back together and see how it looks after. Chances are you will be fine. I have knocked the corner of a headstock before. If the break is fresh it is easy to get a really clean glue line. The next step is truing it up. so after you glue it back (which you already did) sand the back flat and have at it. If the glue line looks good use it! The only upward load on a fretboard is in the middle where the truss rod pushes. I really doubt you would interfere with the structural integrity of the neck. A good glue joint is stronger than the wood and the grain runs the correct direction.
  4. RestorationAD
    How about your measurements for the neck? That would be a great help to us all.
  5. RestorationAD
    IPA... if you are still having issues you can PM me and I will look at your file for you. I am pretty good with Inkscape.
  6. RestorationAD
    Ok read the site, looks good, who caries Jescar wire?
  7. RestorationAD
    Anyone every try CA to seal the edges of the fretboard? I am assuming you could wipe the thin CA on before finishing the rest of the neck. I am so allergic to cocobolo I can't even touch the dust so I can't try and report back.
  8. RestorationAD
    I do my neck angle in the pocket not on the neck.
  9. RestorationAD
    TEAR OUT! <extreme drama> The router table is an evil piece of project wrecking machinery. Use with caution. Nothing is more disheartening than taking a bite that you can't fix out of your 5A Flame maple neck. Holy crap I have been bitten by it several times lately and the more figured the wood the worse the mess is. Keep your bits sharp and your hand steady! I have even had issues with the router lately on joining highly flamed 1/4" tops. I am doing most work by hand now to save my wood... </extreme drama> Ok all drama aside you will need to be careful with this shaping idea. I would definitely use the jointer for the Fretboard surface.
  10. RestorationAD
    I would suspect any combination that you mentioned will make for a nice Jazz or a BeBop type guitar. Here are some ideas. Gibson ES330 is one of my favorite hollow bodies. rick turner 79-003 However Benedetto suggests anything under 3 inches deep sounds bad.
  11. RestorationAD
    I use inkscape for lots of stuff. It can do professional quality work. Look at the Fill and Stroke property on your lines. Make sure that you are working to scale as that helps. I do a lot of my guitar designs in inkscape. This is a great place to beat the learning curve. http://inkscapetutorials.wordpress.com/
  12. RestorationAD
    The DT-155 has been parted out into several different auctions.
  13. RestorationAD
    Stuff is up on ebay. I am bailing on projects I did not build from scratch for now. Also have some Ibanez Super 70s up. Just click on my other items Item Id For the Destroyer: 180308116458 http://cgi.ebay.com/1983-Ibanez-DT-155-Des...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/Relic-King-V-Neck-Body...A1%7C240%3A1318
  14. RestorationAD
    Thread Highjacking in progress... MLCS Router bits are good enough for guitar work. Cheap Fast shipping and the Sales are excellent!
  15. RestorationAD
    +1 good fit wood glue. It is worth the time to build a jig to route those spots straight and ensure a tight fit. There are a lot of forces pulling in that area.
  16. RestorationAD
    Wow the RG Kit is cheap.... wonder what the quality is like? http://www.byoguitar.com/Guitars/Electric-...le__BYO-RG.aspx
  17. RestorationAD
    warmoth... Truss Rods
  18. RestorationAD
    I would not risk it. Those blades are hollow ground and not like a carbide tipped like a regular blade. Mark the frets in question and cut them with a hand saw.
  19. RestorationAD
    Firewood. Now you can build your dream guitar and salvage the parts.... I hate parts laying around with no home. Ok so I know it is really too late to help on the leaning posts but I have a trick for Basswood. If you wick CA into the Basswood it gets hard as a rock. I used this trick on my Poplar Charvel and all my RG's I have modified. You can fix neck pocket issues with this trick too. Look forward to seeing your build .
  20. RestorationAD
    I see what you all are saying about stickyness, but I just want to make absolutely sure about mirrorcoat, so please don't take any offense. I was just warning about using epoxy from Lowe's or Home Creepo... I would hate for you to make some of hte mistakes I have made and ruin perfectly good bodies. Good stuff like System 3 are supposed to be used for those things. System 3 should be measured with a scale so you get the proper amount of hardener hopefully mitigating any mistakes in the mixing that would lead to stickiness. Also the stickiness of cheap epoxies eventually cure hard unless they are just complete junk.
  21. RestorationAD
    Looks good! Nice work. Or you can make one for me. Since neither going to happen.... PM me and we can talk about it.
  22. RestorationAD
    +1 for sticky Epoxy.... I wouldn't do it. There is a reason everyone uses it as a grain filler and follows up with Poly or Lacquer. For the most part unless Epoxy is fresh it might not harden clear and hard. I have had the worst luck with local Epoxy that was on the shelf too long. I have had good success with ZPoxy from the local Hobby store, it dries fast, hard, buffs well and was able to use it to repair the finish on my Road Flare Red RG550. However I would not finish a guitar in it.
  23. RestorationAD
    I used my chop saw for one ... and radial arm saw for another... it is hard to get them perfect without a jig. If you build the router jig and cut the initial scarf with a pull saw, use the jig to clean up, waste is minimal
  24. RestorationAD
    The jigsaw is probably not the best approach. I doubt it could do the 14-15 degree angle you needed plus the blade wobble would cause some issues. If you were going to do it by hand a nice Japanese pull saw would be the trick.
  25. RestorationAD
    Straight pull on the strings improves tuning stability. You might want to engineer your headstock around that principle. When the strings pull at an angle against the nut they tend to bind.
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