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RestorationAD

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Everything posted by RestorationAD

  1. RestorationAD
    Time to start building your own necks.....
  2. RestorationAD
    How is the dust? I have read that it is very sensitizing. Also watch the splinters as they go septic easily.
  3. RestorationAD
    Are you worried about balance? Rosewood is pretty heavy while poplar is really light.
  4. RestorationAD
    I have been using Warmoth single action trussrods for years. They are almost identical to the wizard neck trussrod. You can get away with a really shallow truss rod trench. I have rarely seen an instance where I needed a double action trussrod that did not result in firewood. If you need the neck to be stiff laminate a really hard wood in or get some carbon fiber braces from stew mac.
  5. RestorationAD
    +1 Super Thin ala Black Machines You could build the Bloodwood out at about 30mm with a fixed bridge or a surface mount Kahler. I built a V at 32mm and it feels really cool.
  6. RestorationAD
    What are the advantages of naptha other than making better firewood? keeping water away from wood, for one. Have you tried it yet? How well does it work? it seems a rather toxic solution...
  7. RestorationAD
    This is what I have for the Jem.
  8. RestorationAD
    I don't use the Lowe's or Home Depot type as they tend to suck. Go to a hobby store and get a good tube of CA. Most Hobby stores have Zap. I use the Klingspore brand at my local Woodworkers shop. I use the Thin to fix cracks and checks. For dings or chips in the clear finish I have had really good success with the thick Super glue. Also use the thin to glue paint chips back down. What are the advantages of naptha other than making better firewood?
  9. RestorationAD
    Meat not withstanding warmoth makes a decent truss rod. I have used them on several occasions to make wizard replicas.
  10. RestorationAD
    Pickup rings suck anyway....
  11. RestorationAD
    +1 CA and wood dust.
  12. RestorationAD
    I would be very worried about drift using that setup Their router bits are cheap. Are they any good?
  13. RestorationAD
    I found this on talk bass. I think this is the trick. I have had real issues doing figured maple on the jointer (tear-out) and I don't have a reliable table saw. Talk Bass Scarf Joint Jig
  14. RestorationAD
    Router Tear-out Sucks. Make sure you test routing on scrap when using a new species you are not familiar with and get a feel for how to cut it.
  15. RestorationAD
    I did a saber for a friend and it wasn't as hard as you think. <making something seem entirely easier than it is> So do all your routing while the body is still square. Then use a nice angle grinder and round it off.... block sand, sand some more, scrape, sand, scrape, etc.... </making something seem entirely easier than it is>
  16. RestorationAD
    On a side note "I am done with Padauk for a while." I am tired of everything being red-orange, Tired of tearout. Tired of Splintering and Chips. I am moving back to Mahogany and maybe Sapele if I can find a local supplier.
  17. RestorationAD
    Waiting on the finish to cure...
  18. RestorationAD
    I admit I am a metal player... and I have used 6105 for years and it is big and fast. But 6100 is humongous and almost scalloped in the feel of the neck. When you use fret wire that big you need to plan the ergos of the neck. I try to build a thinner flatter neck profile (think Ibanez Wizard) when using really big wire like that as it adds to the overall dimensions of the neck. My hands are usually sore the next day after a fret job with 6100 as it is difficult bend and cut.
  19. RestorationAD
    2 hours? Eesh...You can get so-called 'flap sanders', which are like little drums with bits of sandpaper sticking out. They won't reshape things, but they will clean stuff up quite quickly. Other than that, I'm liable to just us a sanding pad (shaped, or stiff foam), and good quality paper, nothing coarser than 120. 60 and 80 grit scratches are hell to get out of end-grain. For the rest, I use my orbital sander. Finish sanding the whole guitar, with quite a bit of hand-work, should take max 2 hours. Unless you're oiling/going a lot finer than 220/320. Only Build Flying Vs
  20. RestorationAD
    +1 WezV and Setch on recessing bridge and glued in neck shim. Looks like you need to attack it from both angles. I would trace the bridge outline on the top of the guitar, mask it off with blue tape, use my dremel to move the bridge down about 4 -5 mm, shim the neck with a nice angle shim, then glue it in.
  21. RestorationAD
    That is why you experiment on your friends and families guitars not your own.... Over the weekend the burst has gone almost Purple.... I hope it blackens as I put the finish on. I am still torn on what to do on the finish. I am tempted to Tung Oil it and be done. However I think the Paduck needs grain fill. I want to use epoxy but am hesitant to make a lot of work for my self... If I use epoxy then spray laquer the whole thing it will be nice but hte weather is starting to turn cold and will make for a messy finishing project. Any suggestions?
  22. RestorationAD
    <2 cents> I used to move the volume knobs on my stage guitars... Now on my customs (for myself) I make sure the volume knob is not in the swing path of the hand.... </2 cents>
  23. RestorationAD
    Black Stain Burst and the neck glued in
  24. RestorationAD
    This is how I do it. Drill your hole into the post cavity and stick a wire in there. When you screw the post in it will contact the post and be tight enough. No solder necessary....
  25. RestorationAD
    You need a point on the top bout to offset the point on the bottom horn.
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