supplebanana

i think i may have seen that movie.....

caustic is applied to alkalines not acids (as in Caustic Soda - Sodium Hydroxide NaOH) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrosive

Can't get clear 4/4 alder around here much less 8/4, so I haven't had the opportunity to work with it yet. Sapele is NOT African mahogany. They have a similar appearance, but they're not the same wood. That being said, sapele is GREAT to work with and has a LOT of bottom end to it. best read these pages.... http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20genuine.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20african.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/sapele.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20african.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/sipo.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/kosipo.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20spanish.htm http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/andiroba.htm this is before you bring in things that are SOLD as mahogany such as Meranti (Red Luan) etc...... Confused ??? you will be.....

yeah but if you compensate this way then how do you compensate for different string gauges?

just got a few of these.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRUSS-ROD-FOR-ELECTR...=item5ad1e98c45 seem ok for the price.... nice & solid. routed channel for the dual action rod is snug at 6mm

quite a simplistic answer...lol... however very, very true!!!

might be a good idea if you check the width at the nut too....just in case - I mean only an idiot would forget to do that, right? ...lol.... jus' yankin' yer chain!! p.s. good to see a bit more colour in yer grass too!!!

lol..... been using t-cut for 20+ years. always worked for me.

any idea where i can buy some of these pickups in quantities of less than 20? i can't find anywhere that stocks 'em (especially in the UK) I've tried these pickups (PAF's @8K) & they're the best sounding PU's I've heard. grunt with articulation, sensitivity with balls, only way i can describe them. cheap as f*ck too.... if you can find 'em Yep, they are at the head of the pack on tone, and while they are new they have to keep their price a bargain, I got put onto them by the dude at an Aussie shop called Stairway to Kevin, they had a big range but sadly I think that shop has gone out of business. You can try MelMusic http://www.melmusic.com.au/shop/index.php?categoryID=716 they have some in stock and may be able to ship to you and get other models. thanks muzz - looks like the webby is down at the moment...... hang on I'll have a look to see if I can see any thru the window.... nevermind i'll try again later - back to listening to.... keep up the good work!!!

any idea where i can buy some of these pickups in quantities of less than 20? i can't find anywhere that stocks 'em (especially in the UK) I've tried these pickups (PAF's @8K) & they're the best sounding PU's I've heard. grunt with articulation, sensitivity with balls, only way i can describe them. cheap as f*ck too.... if you can find 'em

lol - did nobody else notice he used a picture of a compensated nut?

not true - single action rods mean that you can force the neck in one direction only whether the rod is bent or not. the straight single rods, by their design are meant to bend, the curved rods work because they are bent to start with in the direction of the string pull & when you tighten the rod it tries to straighten pulling the neck with it, the straight rods start off straight & then when you tighten them they pull against a metal bar causing the rod to bend pushing the neck back. double action rods are capable of forcing the neck in either direction to compensate for backbow when fretting etc. this works by setting the rod (during anufacture) with the neutral position (ie - no bend) in the middle of the screw thread, offering the ability to bend the rod in either direction. oh & single action rods come in more than 2 flavours, curved with fillet, rod & bar & u-channel (or should that be n-channel because of the direction of fitting?) personally (many will disagree tho') I believe that the single curved rod to be outdated & may cause problems later in the guitars life due to the fibres in the timber compressing (a problem with old Gibsons) & requires the nut removing & modified washers fitting before replacing the nut.

ebay

I thought they could only do that for powder-coating metal. I didn't think the wood would hold a charge, its a cool concept though. wood will hold charge. it's mostly carbon & water (as are we) & both are capable of holding charge - albeit not as much as other substances - even air will hold charge. remember that charge is static - they basically connect the guitar up to the antenna of an ioniser & connect the gun up to the other pole. the charged particles will try to attract to each other thus neutralising the charge. but yes it's a similar process to the powder coating except the powder coat is then heated to reflow it.

Like 'spoke says - an airbrush is fine for s/bursts & stains but i wouldn't try using it for clearcoating. plus these compressors run constantly - thats why they make them "quiet" - but the other side of the coin is they get VERY hot after a while. another option is large gas bottles such as used for Scuba etc. or like bars use for CO2, you don't need compressed air to spray - i know guys who use this method but use either CO2 or N2. When I used to go diving i'd get my bottle (17ltr) filled to 300bar for ~£2 - and the air was cleaned & dried (for those that want to work it out to PSi = 300x15=4500psi !!!)

is that a picture of Prs Tremonti i can see?

Jake - PM fer ya sb

2 things spring to mind - (i know its too late now coz you've already pulled the board - but for future ref.) 1) will the neck not pull straight under string tension? & 2) if not - what about using Dan Erlewine's method for straightening a back bowed neck? The video I saw of him doing this was on a guitar that had a back bow just as bad as that & he got it straight. also - when I clamp a f/b i start in the middle & work to the ends coz if you start by clamping each end 1st you can introduce a bow as you clamp the rest (kind o'like a bi-metal strip action) sb

well get the damn thing finished & let us see the bloody thing....pleeeeeeeeaaaaasssee!!! sb

mine feels like ABS plastic. yes it feels stiffer than normal scratchplate material but most cavity covers i've come across have been ABS. it's usually molded in-shape as it's more brittle & harder to work than the stuff they sell as blank sheet. sb

what about here - these are in the UK too (same supplier as link above) but they ship Worldwide & shipping to the US is a reasonable £3.50 PRS Inlay sb

my experience with enamels is that they chip very easily after they are fully cured.... not always the best thing for a guitar. never tried them with a clear coat over them tho'.....might work. sb

the best advice I can give is for a first build don't expect to build a "saleable" guitar - but if you do manage it congrats & well done. having access to the tools & somewhere to work is half the battle (I made my 1st guitar (fixed next SG) with minimal woodworking or power tools (electric drill). I was happy with the result for a 1st attempt but have since stripped the finish & fretboard off & plan on redoing them (when I get the time!!!!) The only other advice is to find out as much about guitars & guitar construction as possible (here is about as good a place as any as you access to everyones mistakes as well as tricks) but as Quarter says K.I.S.S. - keep it simple stupid! Use cheaper timber that way if you have to scrap the project you haven't lost a lot of cash (remember there's a credit crunch....lol) even building a "Parts-ocaster" can give you relevent experience. but at then end of the day - enjoy what you do - if you are enjoying it you'll make less mistakes because you'll be concentrating more & take more care. sb

looks good... isn't that the same shape as the one Vinnie Vincent (ex Kiss/ Vinnie Vincent Invasion) ??? I'd agree with syxxstring if ya just gonna block colour it... seems like the logical process to me. As long as the Primer & later coats are compatable with each other there's no reason why you can't use Auto paint/primer - I've done a few from both rattle cans & other autmotive sprays using a Pro spray gun (no photo's unfortunately). sb

Hi guys, I'm building a guitar with a carved mahogany body & I'm now at the sanding stage. I'm planning on doing an oiled finish (my 1st) & I also know how much of a pain the grain on mahogany can be at the best of times without it having a carved top too. Can anyone give me a step by step walkthru' of what I need to do to get as near a perfect finish as possible? (I'd rather take my time & do it right 1st time than with trial & error) I'd be extremely grateful for ANY advice given on techniques/materials no matter how trivial they may seem. thanx in advance!!! sb