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ScottR

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Everything posted by ScottR

  1. ScottR
    That's the one I was having trouble seeing....camara angle was part of it I'm sure. SR
  2. ScottR
    +1 SR
  3. ScottR
    Nice wood score. How is that Peruvian Walnut to work? I've never had any in my hands. And.....what is that headstock angle--on these one piece non scarfed necks? I had to look hard to convince myself they were not perfectly flat. SR
  4. ScottR
    I like the bocote option. Do you have any with a grain pattern similar to the fretboard? SR
  5. ScottR
    I think that top wants to be deep cherry red. SR
  6. ScottR
    I'm pretty sure Trans tint is exactly what he means. SR
  7. ScottR
    I love the way this turned out! How does it sound? And the rotating pick--is the effect of that subtle or pretty noticeable? SR
  8. ScottR
    Many sign shops have digital printers that can print photo quality resolutions (from 720x720 dpi to 1200x1200 dpi) on adhesive backed vinyl and then overlaminate that with a clear laminate. The laminate will protect the ink from your clear coat. It can be stretched and applied to carved tops as well as flat tops. It is the same materials used for the vehicle wraps you see everywhere these days. JohnnyForeigner did this in a thread last year I believe. SR
  9. ScottR
    This is nice. I'm liking the shape--my first one had some similar lines. The grain in your fretboard is messing with me. It makes the neck look like it is twisted. SR
  10. ScottR
    Actually, I do. I saw this a couple of days ago and got pulled away before I got a post up. I love the chevrons on the top. How do you like working the Spanish Cedar? I've just used it for the first time and found it softer thatn what I'm used to. It worked easily enough....I just kept having to fix little dents. I hope it sounds good. SR
  11. ScottR
    Beautiful display of craftsmanship. Absolutley stunning! Brilliant job. SR
  12. ScottR
    I like the river....and that the source is the nut--no less. SR
  13. ScottR
    Thanks guys. I'm finding it very difficult to capture the color in a picture. Workingman's lava description comes pretty close. The dark areas of the figure are nearly black, but if you take it out into the sun and shift the angles, that dark area flips completely to the hot red with amber hints and the highlighted areas go dark. That's the way its supposed to work, but I got the contrasts so high, I wasn't sure it was going to. I can't wait to see what I have when it's all buffed out. SR
  14. ScottR
    That came out very nice. Great job. SR
  15. ScottR
    Then I sprayed the next to last coats.....and here theit is with orange peel and a run in all its glory. I've just sprayed the last coats, and so it will hang for a couple of weeks. I've only gotten glimpses of how its going to look polished out........but that finish is deeeeeeeeep. SR
  16. ScottR
    Earlier this week I did spray some more black burst with my airbrush onto the Z-Poxy. Since it was mostly touch up work and didn't show any noticeable changes, I didn't post any pics. I started clear coating this week and after several coats....5 or 6 maybe, I mixed up some black dye with lacquer thinner and added an equal amount of lacquer and airbrushed some more burst with a tint layer. After leveling the lacquer of course. After spraying I lightly micromeshed through the grits from the middle out to remove any overspray from everywhere but the edges. Here are some attempts to capture what that looked like. SR
  17. ScottR
    I'm a big fan of P-90s, and they certainly fall in the classic tone catagory you're looking for. SR
  18. ScottR
    I used Z-Poxy on my current build....worked fine for me--I'd do it again.
  19. ScottR
    Exactly. It's very difficult to show what was done.....but if you didn't do it, it would stick out like a sore thumb. I lightly resprayed the black burst last night and just might get the first light coats of nitro on tonight. On another note, the claw marks are essentially invisible right now. There were even before I touched up the burst. I had gotten used to seeing them even to the point of beginning to like the "character" they added. This is my original color scheme plan; it wasn't developed to hide them, but the steps taken and the order of them were necessary to fill them without damaging the dye or leaving the interior of the gouges undyed. The clear coat will be like opening a window and being able to see everything going on in the top. It will be interesting to see if they show back up. SR
  20. ScottR
    If the edges of your board are still thick enough just take your radius block and sand down to that level. You are basically just going to be sanding the center of your board. Use your current dots as a guide and re-drill and replace the dots. You've got nothing to lose but a little sweat. If you dork it up, you're in the same place you are now. If you get it right, pop in some new dots, surface them, and you're good to go. SR
  21. ScottR
    I did that. The best they had at that time was the suggestion that there were a few sellers on ebay that would ship to the US. I did not pursue that. Please post your finds if you get a better answer. SR
  22. ScottR
    I never did find any for sale over here. SR
  23. ScottR
    You need to upload them to a host like Photobucket. Them copy the image code and paste it into your post. SR
  24. ScottR
    I love your timber choices at least from a pure asthetic point of view. It's beautiful, I hope it sounds as nice as it looks. SR
  25. ScottR
    I remember not so long ago you were lamenting the lack of a drum sander......I expect you're loving having one now! SR
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