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ADFinlayson

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Everything posted by ADFinlayson

  1. Have you tried putting any relief in the neck, could it be too flat or back bowed? What about the bridge, are the saddles causing a vibration? That's the only other point that's totally consistent when you're playing every fret, and what about string gauge/scale/tuning? if they're low gauge strings tuned down, they will be at lower tension and potentially causing buzz. Obviously I am only speculating, but it might be worth swapping the bridge out with a different model and/or changing string gauges to eliminate a couple of things as well as truss rod adjustments.
  2. That Ovangkol came up rather nice, great work Bizman
  3. Yeah I'm not sure why it's happening. All the photos in this thread are on the same public/shared google photos album but some of the photos don't have public read permissions and I can't seem to find any option to alter perms on individual photos.
  4. I posted the link to stewmac because I know you're in the US. I'm in England so I buy my templates Gitabo in Germany and G&W in Portugal. I very much doubt there is anything wrong with stewmac templates, though. Another good one on your side of the pond is Potvin guitars templates
  5. I posted the link to stewmac because I know you're in the US. I'm in England so I buy my templates Gitabo in Germany and G&W in Portugal. I very much doubt there is anything wrong with stewmac templates, though. Another good one on your side of the pond is Potvin guitars templates
  6. I highly recommend you get yourself a set of routing templates, I made the mistake of drawing round an existing neck on my first neck build and it ended up less than accurate... You can get templates for all of the common shapes online. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routing-templates/routing-template-for-56-tele.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2020-11-gp&pref_currency=P&shipcalc=UK&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqdP9BRDVARIsAGSZ8AnjfR3zpDYb85i0kzjSzGZ6eD75BjsgxicokIJsrJIpbm-Gc6DOt6EaAuEPEALw_wcB
  7. Thanks for all the nice comments, no idea what's going on with the photos, they're all hosting on photos.google.com in a public album
  8. Nice Andy, that walnut is going to look a bit tasty. There aren't many cases in West Oxfordshire, but I don't need much of an excuse to lock myself in the garage
  9. weird, I've just relinked all the pics to make sure they're public, hopefully they will appear now
  10. thanks Bizman, no all the black plastic is gloss, probably just mucky finger prints.
  11. Nearly there on the rosewood one, wired her up and cut a bone nut, still need to do a bit of setup work - Not sure how but I seem to have a high fret, I need to stop relying on the sharpie line on the top of the frets and use a fret rocker to check they're all level prior to crowning. Hopefully I can fix that one fret without having to level and crown the lot again. Apart from that I'm really happy with it, OX4 P90s are awesome. I'm also really impressed with the Wilkinson wraparound bridge, for the price point it's exceptional. I've done a satin finish on this one, wet sanded with 800 first then rubbed in furniture wax with 0000 wire wool which is a method I heard about watching a P J Eggle factory tour. Will be interested to see how well it stands up, It's high gloss lacquer so I guess eventually it will become glossy in areas.
  12. Great looking axe, I'm not a tele man but that's a great shape. I've used the Signum bridge a few times now too and it's my favourite bridge, their roller hardtail bridge is awesome too
  13. I would expect so, as long as the wood has been kiln dried, it would be suitable for building your first guitar. I wouldn't worry too much about what the likes of PRS say about wood having to by 5% moisture content etc, most people aren't able to get wood that dry outside a humidity controlled factory environment. The wood for my first guitar came from a builders timber yard in rainy UK and that guitar still works
  14. you can buy dried wood, drying your own wood is it's own art form, you can buy already bookmatched tops too, there are stacks of luthier suppliers and tonewood suppliers online including on ebay, etsy etc.
  15. Start now while you can nag your parents for tools. I wish I had a go when I was 15, then perhaps I'd be doing it for a living too - I don't know anyone that didn't become hooked after their first build. All the info you need to get you started is free on youtube and ProjectGuitar is your support network. This is the first episode of Ben Crowes first series that got me hooked.
  16. wipe on polys are not thin enough for guitar finishing IMO, not if you want that glassy look. Thin your last few coats to at least 70/30 - the material will self-level better than 90 or 100% poly and it will dry faster too.
  17. I did a video on staining/faux binding, it's a long watch I'm afraid but you get all the detail
  18. oooh that's tasty, I especially like that unbound area by the lower horn. You will probably find those splits will stick down with a bit of super glue and accelerator
  19. That chip out on the fretboard is a bummer but if you've still got it, it will glue back on. You can sand at least a few mm off the thickness of that fretboard I reckon, that will reduce your neck thickness a bit too. I tend to only go to about 4.5mm - 5mm max fretboard depth nowerdays (in the middle), that way I can get a thinner neck profile without worry about carving through the truss rod channel.
  20. Are they? When I've ordered from Maderas Barber in the past, parcels from Valencia, Spain
  21. I have one of these, can't live without it! G&W in Portugal sell them, pretty sure that's where mine came form https://guitarsandwoods.com/tools-by-job/cleaning-2063981406 Alternatively, Maderas barber in Spain may well sell them too.
  22. wow that is seriously bowed, if your frets aren't too large for the slots, I wonder if the glue you're using before hammering them in could be causing the slots to swell.
  23. I normally do bound boards though I've always glued the board on prior to fretting, and always get the odd one that doesn't go. Have you checked the slots are deep enough and clean of dust and glue from the binding? have you taken the very edge of the slot off with a file? have you got your fret radius the same or tighter than the radius of the board? I'm usually guilty of forgetting at least one of the above
  24. Looking very nice, what wood is that on the top?
  25. Shredding sounds great in those vids, you clearly know your modes. I like that axe almost as much as I like the beard
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