Bizman62

Send a picture of your wiring and the diagram. As the colours didn't match it's possible that there's reversed wiring in several places, counteracting each other.

Narex make good chisels for a reasonable price, don't know about other brands. The set you referred to seems to be sold under several names with small variations. Looking at another revealed my main concern about those: They most likely aren't ready to use right from the box. However, that's not an uncommon feature in the more expensive ones either. PLUS that will effectively teach you how to sharpen your chisels! For sharpening practice a cheap set like that is perfect. I've got a very cheap set of 3 chisels I bought when I was young and didn't know I didn't know anything. They can be sharpened but after a few strokes on hard wood the very tip burrs and loses the edge. That's the problem with cheap tools, you never know until you've used them. Getting known good quality from the start will pay in the long run.

I thought it was from chicken pox as gnomes may not be included in the vaccination program.

Pictures, young man, pictures! Please! You've been a member long enough to be allowed to post pictures and I'm sure you have some sort of a camera - a real one or a phone/tablet.

That makes two of us, I keep drooling over the photos!

plasterboard, that is!

I guess you should have noticed if he was into coke...

Jointing cut plasterboard edges? Looks like a fun project, I'll be watching this.

Hold the body under your arm, press the upper horn while pulling the headstock. Does the crack open or stay steady? If it moves significantly the neck is loose, if not it's just the finish cracking.

Most all hobbies are. Just think about ice hockey: Skates, shields, sticks, licenses, team memberships... Or horseback riding: Saddles, clothing, horse, stable... Or any motor sports... Or scouting: Clothing, backpacks, wanderings, jamborees... Or any other woodworking: The wood, tools etc... I'm surprised that your dad doesn't have most of the tools already, having read how handy he is and how he's got a lot of tools!

@Gogzs's idea of ripping all frets off one problematic guitar has a valid point. That would effectively eliminate all fret job related issues. If the guitar buzzed as fretless, it would tell that the problem is not related to your fretting skills. Worth trying after everything else has been triple checked.

Anyone who has built a set neck carved top guitar could build that. It's just a guitar, not rocket science. You should be able to make both the neck and the body after having built a few guitars - unless you're talking about kits, that is. Hiring a luthier to build a carbon copy of a custom guitar may easily cost more than the real thing, hiring a hobbyist is a costly gamble. [Edit] Just by chance I noticed the actual title, about CNC'ing a body. Nonetheless, getting the digits just right for the CNC would require numerous hours of coding, several cold runs and most likely more than just one test piece. For a single item that would be as costly as hand made.

A fibre mask won't sit on your face as tightly as a rubber/silicone mask. That's not too big of an issue, though, as it will sit on tighter when you inhale - you're basically sucking it against your face. When you exhale, the air tries to find the easiest way out which often is from the sides unless your mask has a vent for exhaling. The leaking makes your lenses fog but as said it's air coming from your lungs. The protection rate of N95 respirators is about 95% which is very good. However, since you're going to build more than just one guitar, getting a good rubber half mask with replaceable filters will both sit on your face more tightly and expand the filtering surface, thus helping you to breathe more easily. They aren't too expensive either, for about $20 you can choose. The filters are very inexpensive compared to the white "one time" masks.

That's pretty awesome! I tried to look at that very spot but there was such a short bit of the seam visible that I couldn't believe there'd be a splice glued!

Too easy. Dead center in the neck slot, the right side grain is at an angle compared to the left. Oh, you weren't talking about the centerline joint. Too blurred for me to see...

This? https://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6 Or this? https://shop.gitabou.de/?lang=en Or even this? http://www.yitars.de/

Wearing a mask every time you create dust or act with chemicals is good practice. That includes sawing, filing, rasping, sanding, painting... As you have been previously told, a fan is not a dust extractor. Instead a powerful fan raises the dust in your working space into the breathing air, making the mask even more important to wear. A dust collector vacuum would be a good addition on your power tools list. You could use that for your bandsaw as well as with your router etc. One with an automatic power outlet would allow for starting the vacuum remotely by the tool. -In the workshop we're using there's a 6" industrial piping system with fire extinguishers and all, yet the belt sander table is dusty. Learn to wear a mask as naturally as your undies! Hand planing is the most dust free process in guitar building, followed by drilling. Even those create inhaleable particles. Always wear a mask if you want to live a long life as a professional guitar builder.

If you're worried about the 2 mm thickness being enough on a radiused fingerboard, this little formula might help. W is the width of your inlay piece, R is the fretboard Radius. Use millimeters instead of inches to match the thickness of the inlay. If Y is less than the 2 mm thickness of your inlay, the very edges will be sunk into the fretboard by 2 - Y.

That has happened to me as well when I use my tablet for a camera. Other than that I must say I love the headstock! It's not too different to the original, yet the horse's head makes the rest look like it's a chesspiece rather than a slightly modded Strat head. BTW I seem to own a similar plane. Adjusting it is a nightmare, don't you agree?

Ah that cute pink bunny rabbit! Suh-weet!

Some solid logic, never would've thought of that!

That's the reason why I suggested you to get a bigger plane as well. If the plane is as long as the object you're planing the result will be more level. Shorter planes are used for removing material fast. As @curtisa said, pictures would help a lot when trying to help you. Patience is another thing. Why ask if you can't wait for the answer? This is a world wide community so it takes overnight for your question to reach people on the other side of the globe. It's now 2:35 AM your time and you're most likely asleep. When you typed your question it was past 2 AM here so this side of the pond was sleeping. Haste is your enemy, fight it!

That's nice! Very subtle, yet making a statement.

You can do one by yourself as shown in the thread of self built tools. I was going to build one but then I found this : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001081480136.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.65d44c4dQ02hrh

The frets should be bent to a tighter radius than the fretboard to keep the ends tight in the slots. When you hammer the ends in first the studs in the tang make sideways grooves inside the fret slot so that when the fret is properly seated there's solid wood above the studs at the ends of the fret.