Bizman62

On another video he uses the huge Triton TPL180, if you prefer power tools.

What size are those magnets? I just got a pile of 4x1 mm ones and they look so small I've hesitated to put them in.

I would never, ever, paint my guitar yellow and green! But that looks just fantastic! Especially in the lower light images where the "small guitar" just pops out! Am I using too many exclamation marks? And... dare I even think about it? Should I revisit my fondness of yellow I used to have in my childhood?

Very interesting! Guess I'll have to split my offcuts for more testing surfaces to see if I could reach anything interesting with my ovangkol top.

I'd vote for "Yes". You're probably talking about a very thin veneer, in the range of 0.5 mm or so. That may flatten with the clear coat but the bubble would still be there. It would be prone to resonate and give you some extra buzz if you leave it loose. Also the thick block of wood beneath it might swell or shrink with the surrounding humidity, making the bubble come and go and crack the clear coat.

Credit to whom it belongs. I saw it on a Crimson Guitars video, probably the nine hour build or some other fast forward challenge. With the side note that it's not the right way but the result being surprisingly good. Anyhow, the sandpaper is only for rounding the fret ends, you'll still have to put the angle on the edges. That said, 90 deg is an angle as well and sometimes it may be needed to maximize the playable fret width. A slight bevel would be preferred, though.

I can't afford that for myself. Trying to write unambiguous sentences in a foreign language is tough enough even without linguistic finesses.

They aren't cool. There may be other names for that phenomenon, wolf note is what I've heard of. It means the instrument has accidentally tuned to a certain frequency (plus the harmonics) which thus gets extra boost. Think about playing a scale: Do, re, mi, FUUU**!, so...

Wow! Never would have guessed that a router bit would cut through frets! Then again, they weren't stainless steel... AFA the second photo, since the deepest cut seems to be just at the side dot that'd be a perfect line for the rest of the neck. Make it rounder if you wish but start with that bevel. A cabinet scraper might be the right tool although a sanding block might work as well, or a Shinto saw rasp. For the heel... You obviously mean the parts where the neck is wider than the fretboard? If it's the traditional LP type neck joint it's a no-brainer. On the upper side simply cut the excess off, on the lower side make the cutout a little wider, blending it in at the 17th or 18th fret. The rolled sandpaper method works well with steep fret edges as it only cuts the sharp corners away, leaving a maximum width of fret wire under the e-strings. Actually I've done my best fret end jobs with that method!

Squeeze-out is your friend when gluing. It tells you immediately if there's enough glue in the joint in all places. As with all things too much is too much, when under pressure an even 0,5 mm rim all around the joint is about optimal. A wet rag for wiping the excess off will minimize the need of tidying up with scrapers. 1 mm is still acceptable but after that you'd be having a pool of glue between two pieces of wood which is bad both for the sound and the joint. Even though you can hide the gaps with binding you should still fill them with something. Otherwise you'd end up having long sound chambers in the neck and those can cause wolf notes.

It became legal in Finland too a few decades ago. The basic idea is to allow replacing switches or lamps or covers into an existing inspected and approved wiring. Redoing the wiring in the fuse panel isn't allowed. Same goes for changing the functionality of the wiring, i.e. adding a wall plug to the radiator cable and such. For any electric devices the CE certificate sets the requirements.

Exactly how are you going to use that template? With a router you'd have to pull the frets off which I think is not ideal at this point. With a file or sanding beam you'd easily end up taking material off the template as well. You're making me curious!

Ouch! I once met a young copier repairman who had to wear cotton gloves on his utterly greased hands all nights (talk about foreplay...) and similar gloves at work on days. The plastic colour powder caused him similar issues.

Yep, that sure looks like a streamlined process, industrial indeed. No unnecessary hassling despite the obvious curiosity of wanting to get a glimpse of how it might look when finished. @Osorio, to me a great deal of the process of building a guitar is to see the almost miraculous change from pieces of lumber to a playable and good looking instrument and the astonishment when it finally is finished to the limits of my skills. Do you still feel the same magic when doing a series of instruments almost like on an assembly line? Do they just give you the pleasure of making a job well or are they like your babies?

Give it a try, though. Even super glue will break when heated, as well as Titebond. According to some sources the flash point is about 80 degrees which won't scorch the wood. A clothes iron and a heated palette knife plus some small wedges should do. If you used the foaming type of glue, it won't come off by heating. Instead, a shock like dropping the neck on the floor might break the bond. How to slam the neck for the desired effect without bruising it is another issue.

The only thing not making me jealous about that guitar is that I'm not a great fan for V's. POP!

I'm with you and @Splintazert in that the brown looks nice. Some gloss on that and voilà! I can see some greenish hue in the second last picture but in the last one there's purple. Is it just a photographic thing or does it really shift colours that way? Looks almost like the rainbow figures on a pool of oil, very interesting!

Plus you got some weight lifting excercise!

The Master Luthier who guides our group uses a four face diamond sharpening block he bought at Lidl. Once I met him at the tool department at an automotive+hardware store looking at a cheap diamond sharpener for the same purpose. It's not too difficult to check the flatness. If you have a known flat surface, the block would rock if there's any twist of if it's convex. To check if a non-rocking block is concave, try sliding a piece of paper under it or set a bright light on the other side and look if you can see the light under the block.

Thanks, @curtisa. Never thought about the radio emissions until you mentioned them. Then again, doesn't the metal box of a pedal create a Faraday cage which should keep most of the radio noise within? Gotta love your way of criminal thinking! It only vaguely occurred to me that one could plug an inverter to a 12V converter for 240V AC. As you said, it will be a can of worms regarding safety. Again, no fire insurance might cover the damages caused by such a monster. And yes, as I've noticed how easy it is to make a radio receiver just by chaining some extra devices between the guitar and the amp, accidentally creating a radio transmitter would be equally easy.

I've been watching Jerry Rosa's channel on YouTube. He has several times told people asking "can it be fixed" and the answer is "yes it can, everything can be fixed". The real question is, is it worth fixing? And that is where plain monetary value isn't the only variable. Restoring a 100 year old quality instrument can apply to the price tag, fixing grandpa's beaten-up old guitar he used to accompany nursery rhymes is a sentimental thing where money doesn't count. Or Willie Nelson's Trigger... That's a very valid reason to spend working hours and materials for restoring and fixing a basically trash bin instrument. You seemed to do a very nice job with it!

Same here. Also, if a DIY guy makes it and something goes wrong, the insurance won't cover the damages, at least not fully. Pedals and such are DC devices which can be operated by a battery or a factory made AC/DC converter so they're free to DIY. Which leads to an interesting question: Is it possible to build a small battery/converter powered tube amp with a spring reverb?

Never owned or even driven a motorbike bigger than a 50cc... But I've done the sanding that way, bare handed without any issues. You've already filed the fret ends flush with the fretboard. Notice that only the first and the ring finger only keep the paper curved and even the mid finger only acts as a guide so it's only the three-fold paper having a springy contact with the wood and the fret ends. I forgot to mention that the paper is being used dry.

I'd like to add that fiddling with AC isn't allowed for us mere mortals in many countries, it's for trained electricians only.

Yes, think about springs. The more you hammer it the harder it gets. Of course there's ways to soften it again with heat. @Urumiko, tin plated steel and tin alloy are totally different things. Plating is a layer the surface, allow is a mix. One common tin alloy is bronze which is a mixture of copper and tin. Tinned copper utensils aren't bronze but if you melt and mix them they will become bronze given the proportions are right. Anyhow, metals have been used for inlays forever so it's only a matter of choosing the right materials and methods.