DividedByJames

In my experience the Korean models are decent quality and low priced. ESP is a bit more expensive and Jackson is competitive in cost. But I think what makes Ibanez attractive (aside from wylde1919's comments) is that a large number of influential endorsers use them. Steve Vai, Joe Satriani, George Benson, Korn, Incubus (acoustics), Offspring, Staind, System of a Down, etc. I also think the lack of custom shop with everything also makes the professional customs more desirable. I personally like their innovations: All access neck joint, wizard necks, Lo Pro Edge trems, Jems and Universes, etc.

Here's the dealio... Bought a "1 piece" mahogany Tele body on Ebay a while back. When I got it, the body was 2 piece split down the center of the sides, separating top and back (like a thick mahogany drop top). The edges were a little jagged and the two Nashville style strat routs were oversized and offcenter. My thoughts (especially after no emails for 2 weeks) were that the guy was sketchy and sold me a lemon. After much consideration about cost of shipping back and forth and what it cost me I kept it to use for a project one day (or to sell on ebay). Well I got a guitar-building hair up my butt and that day is now (or soon). But I need some help deciding what to do as this is my first guitar build (that involves sanding and glueing). I recently bought a decent looking, moderately inexpensive, glued bookmatched piece of curly maple the other day on ebay and I want to attached to the top of the body. I read some of the tutorials and they helped but wanted to get all of your opinions. Here's are considerations and issues I have: --body is shaped but maple is not. Preshape (oversize) the maple then glue or attach the entire rectangular piece and then cut/sand edges? --neck/mid pickup routs suck. Considering filling in with a square (see trem to hardtail tutorial) and later re-routing for either p-90s or no pickups (Esquire). --body thickness is made to specs (I think) and maple is 2/16" (1/8"). Should I shave off 1/8" (which will flatten the square mentioned above) or make the body 1/8" fatter? I do have access to a mill for this purpose (or I could buy a cheap electric planer). --the body is heavy by itself and I am already doing a solid tele project currently. I really wanted a thinline tele (with custom f-hole)--is this gonna be difficult to do with this thin of a piece of maple? What if I just chambered it, without the f-hole--would it be strong enough? The control area is top routed right now--will this be a problem? Also I read Titebond is good for this glueing--right? How much weight is needed to secure this maple to the mahogany? --James

I've been reading your tutorial...very cool. I hope Brian puts this on the main site. I got a question...I noticed your piece of blue plastic was thicker than the pearl. and you said you piece it together upside down to make everything flush on the top...so how to you get the back to be even? That blue piece looked a few mm's bigger than the pearl. Is the idea to ideally have everything the same thickness?

ha! one of the reasons I stopped using Floyds was becuase changing strings sucked...but I know everyone else likes them so I won't knock 'em any further. I play a gig every 2-3 weeks, and my main Schecter C-1 gets the full treatment before shows--new strings clean up, polishing the hardware, etc...the bastard black C-1 (it's backup) gets it's strings changed every 2-3 shows. My other guitars get changed probably every 3-6 months. Mostly cuz I don't sweat that much when playing them and I don't use them all the time. Restringing floyds...do one at a time, and try to put a support under the trem. I think once upon a time they developed this plastic mount that would catch the trem bar and "make it a fixed bridge". You might wanna look for one of those.

you make it sound so mysterious Brian Now I'm curious about who it is... And curious about ballpark prices for jem hardtail bodies...let me know who can do it.

I had a regualr Crybaby for a long time, then I had it mod'ed to have a bigger sweep. It's since crapped out on me (and now collection dust) and I now use the CFH Dimebag model. It's got a boost switch and LEDs to tell you if the boost is on or if the wah is on. Plus it's got teh 535-Q rotary knob and fine tuning stuff on the under side. I recommend a 9-volt adapter cuz I've heard friends say they go thru 9volts like crazy with it.

hey that really looks like a old beat up strat (i mean besides the fact that it is ) Very cool. I like the idea of the single coil looking JB...perhaps a simple tutorial with pics?

I think the universe looks good with the vine inlay. I wonder why Ibanez doesn't do that. Did you replace the entire f'boards to do that, or just install inlays and fillers for the holes?

I spoke to a tech at Stew mac and Dremel-specific accessories such as the Dremmel Flex-Shaft are not compatable. Non specific items like bits (and StewMac jigs/bases) are compatable. I guess that means I have to go trackdown a Black and Decker flex shaft.

wow I definately hear that. I must concur, lower your pickups. Also Ithink I've seen people (Fender?) put small capacitors on the volume knob. Maybe this (an/or a tone knob) will help roll off those highs. Also are you picking right over the pickup or between the bridge and neck?

Never scammed, but I got a few lemons because someone didn't know what they were selling and mis titled it. But most were bodies, not actual guitars. The Ibanez RG and the Jackson Scott Ian JJ were great buys. I got one person who couldn't purchase my 4x12 and another that didn't return emails. Now I'm a better buyer so hopefully I won't have anymore bad experiences.

I use GHS boomers because they're relatively inexpensive and provide the heaviness. They go 11- 50 which helps when I drop D tune a half step down (C# to Eb). Plus they don't stay on my guitar for too long since I put a fresh set on for every show. Altho I'm considering going to 12's I use Elixers for my acoustic--LT top Med bottom. Any reason why this poll needed three different Fender strings? I used Fenders a few times and they were ok. D'Addarios are good, but not heavy enough. Ernie Balls kept breaking on me. DRs are too expensive but I'd try those.

Much better than Disneyland. Close to Comic Con. People hate coming with me because I stay all freakin day lookin at stuff. I hoping to score badges cuz my other guitar players brother used to work for Goodall and now works for Taylor. I'm crossing my fingers.

Hey that's pretty cool that the project guitar forum is mentioned on the Duncan site. See...Duncans rule!

I have the Black and Decker RTX and it works well. I used those blades to cut thru a bolt (as thick as the end of a 1/4" guitar cord) that someone installed as a strap pin on my black Schecter C-1 Elite. I went thru 3-4 of the sanding blades but it made it thru. Then I got some mini files and cleaned it up. My only problem now that I see is compatability with "Dremmel" products. Does anyone know if they are interchangable?

why? is your guitar a set neck? Methinks it may be more difficult if the body is not a bolt on.

butnut, what are the nails for in the pic with both Teles?

damn that's might nice. I guess by sending us a black and white photo, it kinda defeats the purpose of doing a chrome finish. SO...what color chrome is it gonna be, eh? And I think I need one of those dupli...whatevers too. Of course I don't think it'll fit in my apartment. But still, how sweet would that be?!

Vadim has a good point...you might need a neck shim. Anyhoo, think of poplar and basswood as primer grey. Good for underneath another paint, but not so pretty by itself. I'm not a fan of poplar or basswood. I prefer alder, but I think they all sound essentially the same. If you are indeed capping a flat top les paul with another wood, I'd use maple. I think the Western maple is the soft stuff, so shoot for that. It might be easier to use that the eastern maple which is think is used in guitar necks.

nice...200th post...woohoo (201 including this one)

from my RG7421 (I have a regular ruler and a short one that has 1/100ths of an inch): nut: 48mm or 1 15/16" or 1 88/100" 12th: 59mm or 2 5/16" or 2 32/100" heel (measured after 24fret): 65mm or 2 9/16" or 2 58/100" headstock: 18 cm or 7 1/16" along tuners the bottom is curved so I can't get exact measurements, but it's about 17cm or 6 3/4" check the jemsite just in case.

nice wood. all kidding aside, very cool job, altho I'd be freaked about the tail end snapping off. But that's because I'm a klutz.

I live out here in CA and have gone three times. Now I'm spoiled and I need to find a hook up for badges...January is rolling around quick.

If you have good effects, I'd try to track down a Mesa Vtwin rackmount. I used one for years before I graduated to a Dual Recto. It's a tube preamp, and you can record direct with it (I never did but you're supposed to be able to). It's knobs like a regualr amp and has individual channel swithcing cabilities. You can also turn on both channels at the same time and blend the sound. I always set it to 100% distorion, and used the blend volume as a solo volume. I've seen them sell on ebay for around $300-400. Also the Rocktron Replifex has channel switching capabilities via midi. I use this still and it's a great processor for old school pedal sounds. I've seen these sell for $200-$350.

on the note about the spindle sander... Ryobi makes a fairly inexpensive model. I bought my dad a table saw (a Skilsaw) for fathers day and while I was there Home Depot was selling almost all Ryobi table products (miters, small table saws, scoll saws, planners, etc.) for $89.99. I'd be surprised if they were anymore than that now. But I checked the home depot website and for some reason they don't have it on there. on the guitar...very nice.