curtisa

The SLT101 trem on that model has a slightly different cavity shape compared to the Edge, but it appears that it can be done with some changes to the outline of the cavities: http://www.jemsite.com/forums/967443-post2.html Other anecdotal evidence suggests that the Gotoh double-locking trem is a drop-in replacement that requires no additonal work. Used Edges turn up on eBay from time to time. If it were me, I'd want to be absolutely certain that it was worth going ahead with though. You need to check the post spacing is the same on the trem you're replacing it with, and any changes to the cavity shape will require access to tools and skills that may be worth more than the cost of the instrument, Also factor in refinishing where the cavities are re-shaped if appearance is important to you.

Moved to the Tech Area -> Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat for better housekeeping.

Some more brain ideas to chew on, then I'm done for the day. Just done some quick and dirty testing on my unit. There is a setting at PD118 that enables the Over-voltage Stall Prevention function. Setting this to 1 allows the VFD to detect when the motor back-EMF voltage becomes too high during ramp-down and halt the ramping process until the backfeed returns to an acceptable level. The lowest I can reliably set the ramp-down speed from a 24000RPM (setting PD015) on my 1.5kW unit, without a braking resistor fitted is 1 second. Any quicker and the VFD trips on over-volts. Even at this deceleration rate I can hear the over-volt stall prevention kicking in multiple times as it ramps down (the spindle speed audibly goes down in spurts over the course of the complete deceleration period). A more forgiving setting for PD015 appears to be 5-7 seconds, which doesn't seem too unreasonable for a fast stop from 24K. It should also be noted that the time it takes to stop from a lower RPM is proportional to the ramp time, so with PD015 = 5 sec, a deceleration from 12K RPM takes 2.5sec. I suspect that an e-stop function could probably be implemented by taking advantage of the multiple configurable ramp times this thing can apparently do. A normal stop could be set to ramp-down at 10sec (PD015) and an e-stop could be configured to ramp-down at 2 seconds, or quicker if you fit a braking resistor (PD017). Hitting the e-stop button could select the second quicker ramp time and command the VFD to shut down.

OK, a little more reading on the subject reveals that there are two separate braking systems at play on these VFDs. Dynamic braking is using an external resistor to slug the motor as it spins down by converting the back-EMF produced by the motor when the drive is ramping down into waste heat. It's 'dynamic' in the sense that more RPMs = bigger back EMF = harder braking action. In the Huanyang VFD it appears that dynamic braking can be applied as soon as the shutdown command is initiated, either by a manual stop or by the e-stop (if configured). Ramping down too quickly without a braking resistor (or using an improperly-sized resistor) will give you the over-voltage alarm/trip of the VFD. DC braking (which is what settings PD029 - PD031 refer to) is an additional function in the VFD, where the drive applies a DC voltage to two of the motor windings to slug it into submission. DC braking requires more grunt on the VFD's side, and also stresses the rotor more than dynamic braking, so it makes sense that this should only be applied when the drive signal reaches a few hertz for a few seconds.

The other thing that seems to crop up in discussions about these VFDs is that some of the HY variants do not have the components installed on the PCB to perform the braking function, despite having terminals provided for connection of an external resistor. You may find that after connecting a braking resistor and programming the VFD appropriately will still result in the spindle freewheeling to a stop.

Is this the generic Huanyang VFD that's sold on Ebay and Aliexpress? I've just taken delivery of the 1.5kW version, and reading the manual it may be that the braking resistor is only applied after the spindle is ramped down to the stopping frequency (PD028, 10Hz max) for a period of time specified by PD030 (max 30sec). As far as I can tell you'll still need to get the RPMs down somehow before the VFD will apply the braking resistor. To my thinking, that makes sense when trying to stop a motor. Dropping the anchors on something moving at 24000RPM is unlikely to do the bearings any good, so there must be a lower threshold level that the VFD will allow you to do so safely. Whether this works the same way when doing an E-stop is something that needs some investigation.

Hiya Brett, welcome back to the madhouse! We've kept your barstool free since you've been out.

I say, old beans! Sounds like we're in for a spot of high tea on the high seas. I'll bring the jam and scones, you bring the kettle. What what?

Very well done, sir. Muchly deserved in my humble opinion. I've lost track. Who's shout is it now?

I see you're an ideas man. I think your people should call my people and we should do lunch.

Dammit Andy, I've filled up on popcorn too much from your last build. Now I'll have to head back to the counter to order another batch. Careful with the Hannes bridge. I believe they've changed the design on them recently and dropped the steel plate that acts as the string-thru anchor, and it's trickier to get all six strings in contact with ground.

One day you're going to suprise me and build a 9 string, fan fret, EMG-equipped death metal machine with a quadruple-locking Floyd Rose trem, built-in coffee machine and air-conditioning I always look at your headstock shapes and think, 'Gandalf'. Could be just me though... Watching as you weave your magic, Scott.

Both. Although, as you say, it may be insignificant enough to get by with. 100% perfect separation is unlikely with a magnetic pickup with normal string spacings, but you'll probably get close enough to satisfy your requirements.

Have you tried changing the toolpath direction? In the cutaway 'hollows' for example, it might be worth seeing what happens if you divide each curve up into two separate toolpaths - one that goes in a clockwise direction and one in an anti-clockwise direction, radiating away from the centre of the cutaway..

That's what I figure too. I've been quite happy with the 3020 for the price, and with the various upgrades I've done to it it's been a solid performer. But like Mike I've found I've milled a few things recently that would've been easier if I could do it in one shot rather than tiled in sections. I was looking at the 6040 kits, but there appear to have been more mixed reviews of them when compared to the smaller units - more flex in the frame, unsupported rails over long distances causing sag, so-so electronics.

I'm currently brainstorming the possibility of upgrading my baby 3020 CNC to something a little bit bigger - maybe up to a max of 60 x 40. The idea of recycling some of the components on the existing unit just to get the ball rolling (gantry sides, steppers, spindle mount, spindle, control unit), building a new frame from 30 alu profile, purchasing new ballscrews and upgrading the unsupported bearings to rail sliders is appealing. I've not costed anything yet, but it's probable that it would be cheaper than purchasing the equivalent 6040 unit from Ebay and I'll get a sturdier machine too. I can always beef up the spindle and steppers at a later date if I need the extra grunt and speed. I'll be keen to see whatever work you're currently doing rebuilding yours, @MiKro

If you can find a pickup that is wired this way, it should be possible to split each pole and wire to individual outputs. Don't expect perfect isolation of each string though, as there will be a degree of cross-bleed between each string.

The output would be a bit hotter and a bit brighter compared to running the pickups through volume/tone pots set to 10. I would've said that a bass pickup is voiced for bass frequencies, but I suspect there's actually not much special sauce going on inside that would preclude their use on a guitar. Maybe it would sound a bit warmer? It'd be worth a try at the very least. The impedances used in passive bass pickups aren't that different to those used in guitar pickups, so you're unlikely to come up against anything untoward running a bass pickup and guitar pickup in the same instrument, any moreso than running two different guitar pickups.

Value? If you're willing to make the change to a Tele-style control layout it might be sensible to make it such that the mod can be reversed without damaging anything. Is a stacked potentiometer an option? Some of the skinnier versions only need 20mm depth below the pickguard to fit in.

Neither. They're from Technology For Musicians.

Nice one, John. Looks like you stole my two-nail method of lining up the top with the body too

You're missing the ground from the pickup lead to the back of the volume pot, but otherwise it looks correct. No. The kill switch should go across the middle and bottom lugs of the volume pot.

You mean the diagram you provided minus the tone control? Delete the tone pot and tone cap, and transfer any remaining connection that was previously assigned to the tone pot to the new push-pull volume.

Or ground your localised pickup cavity shielding to the shield of the pickup cable. But, yes that is more fiddly.

What do you want to achieve with the pickups? They offer a number of different voicing options depending on which wires you connect.