jaycee

That is one sweet body

Just buy a lefthanded nut, they cost £1 here in the UK so we talking of $2-3. the bridge looks straight so that will be ok. Just score around the old nut to break the seal as allready mentioned, generally these things come out with a little tap, if you can change strings then you can change a nut. If your in New York there must be loads of guitar/music shops that sell these

Just buy a lefthanded nut, they cost £1 here in the UK so we talking of $2-3. the bridge looks straight so that will be ok. Just score around the old nut to break the seal as allready mentioned, generally these things come out with a little tap, if you can change strings then you can change a nut

The bracing on my plans for my 12 string I have drawn in red. The section greyed out on the neck block is not included in the plans. This is a body from a Simon and Patrick guitar which I got off Ebay. It's mainly the upper bout where the problem lies. If I were to follow my plans I would have to cut off a section of the neck block, and I may be a little short with my bracing. If I left the block as you see it would that be sufficient support to replace the first piece of bracing and start from the piece marked A? Or even put 2 shorter pieces in either side of the neck block. One other thing my plans show side supports, this body does not have any would it be wise to put some in?

I have an Ash neck on my strat build, it is laminated horizontally not on its edge as is the "norm" its been fine with no movement. One thing I would say however is keep it in the environment where it will be kept when built i.e the house because in my experience it does have a tendancey to move whilst acclimatising to it's new environmemt. But as regards stability and strength I have had no problem with it

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OK the weight in the middle has done the trick, the top is back to being flat now

Some progress and a problem that needs sorting. Here is the back Obeche / Sapele / Obeche (courtesey of Simo) The front is Ash and Sapele as is the neck, which the two are on. We had good weather for a few weeks whilst I glued the front together and with a some sanding down I got the gluing side of the drop top nice and flat, however it has warped quite a lot Concave warp, the way it will be when glued down Flipped over here is the Convex warp I have a 2.5 kg weight in the middle of the body on the convex side to try and persuade the top to flatten out. I have pressed down on this side and the middle will touch the surface underneath, as will clamping make the edges touch when flipped over. I am just wondering how to proceed with this problem. Do I continue with the weights, plane the convex side flat or wait until glue up time and assume that the glue will hold the top onto the back. It has warped leaving a 3-4mm gap from the middle

I looked at the ads for fretboard logic some years ago, so it's nice to hear good reviews about them.

Wes have you been taking your medication ?

+1 You wont need to step up through bit sizes. With a good brad point bit and a piece of scrap wood on the back you will be good to go. + me too. If it's a decent piece of Maple use a new brad point bit, ( aka lip and spur) try a test piece first. Make sure that you use a quality bit as well.

That's a simple and great trick. Why hadn't I thought of that before? Thanks It is and is very effective, I have just joined 4 80mm pieces to make a drop top for my latest buid and I did just that, scribbled over the back and sanded the back flat on a sanding board until all the marks came off, then did it again and the second time they dissapeared really quickly

It's nice to see an Acoustic as the guitar of the month. Well done Daniel. That must have been one of the toughest months for a while, it took me ages to write my assesments, and I think I changed my mind every time a new guitar was submitted. Well done to everyone and keep up the good work

Like Dan said make sure the fretboard is nice and flat. When you sand start at the end of the fretboard and the front edge of the sanding block then push right along the board until the block comes off the end. Then repeat as often as neccesary, don't be tempted to sand the "normal" way as if you are sanding something smooth, otherwise the middle of the board will get sanded more than the ends as the sand paper will be in contact with that area more. It may be more labour intensive but it saves the dip in the middle. One other thing do not skip grades, using the next one up will result in a better finish

I was going to start a "what pick do you use" thread but as this one is going along that vien I will chip in. I tried the "Tanner" theres a word that only the Brit lads will know, well as long as there old enough, and compared to my usual pick which is a freebie Black dog music that came with the strings, the sound was clearer and a little brighter. Electric.......1.0mm blackdog music Acoustic......Dunlop .71mm A nice pink one which will have to be replaced soon as I like to chew on it. .46 mm Nylon which I like to use for strumming Classical....... Fingers I go through phases where I keep my nails on the right hand nice and manicured and then i'll get fed up with them or even worse one will break then I cut them and play with the pads.

Just the one for me, with 2 on the go and another on the drawing board

Damn this month was hard, I forget how many times I changed my mind. PSW The Khaler looks great on there, and everythings finished vey nicely, but Tele's just don't do for me. Metal Matt I love the colour, shape, black hardware looks fantastic and the scaloped effect on the end of the fetboard a nice touch, EMG pickup one of my favourite pups, pity there isn't a shot of the headstock tho. This was my fav' all the way through....allmost Daniel Sorbera The high blue gloss finish with the grain coming through looks very nice, unfortunately the relic finish for me looks as if it's been knocked and not bothered spraying over the scrapes, that really did do nothing for me, otherwise a great build Mr Buttman I'm sure it's a nice guitar but I just dont like these, Killmall8 That veneer is stunning, the black hardware again looks good against the veneer, nice touch with the contrasting truss rod cover, and the headstock is good as well, this was up there with Metal Matts when I saw it Decadantjon I like the body shape a morph of a Tele and Strat, the neck is nice and secure on there, alltogether a clean looking build. Boggs That fretboard is gorgeous, as for the rest doesn't do a thing for me, but again like the others a quality looking build J 48 Johnston This was my next favourite. I think my jaw dropped when I saw this one. I don't like Bigsby's but I like this one, the colour is eatable, like custard, visually very striking. Daniel SA This one the Puppy, I like the Bruce Springsteen esque pic. The only thing I don't like about this guitar that it's not mine....you got my vote. Jvillavicencio That fretboard is the one I want for my current build. I like the soft edges on this build well done Bluesy F holes again but what a lovely finish, the binding really stands out So many to choose from this month. The standard on these buils just seem to get better. Fortunately for me taste has a lot to do with my vote, but there are no bad builds here Well done guys

Is this a Bass guitar, perhaps a typing error, 25" maybe, or if it is correct your 6' 7" with long arms

You've done a good job on the sanding, as Geo said keep your chisel and all your tools sharp ! . Work out everything in your mind first, put it on paper. A lot of the time its not what you do that causes problems it's the order in which you do it, we've all got a little wiser doing that

All the timber is in and acclimatising, so here are the specs Scale Length 24 3/4" ( 628mm ) Frets 22 Neck Joint 16th Fret pickups Iron Gear "Platinum 90" P90 at the neck and the "Blues Engine " Humbucker at the bridge Bridge Tune O Matic Construction: Neck Ash/Sapele horizontal laminate Body Back 35mm Obeche/Sapele/Obeche Front 10mm Ash/Sapele Headstock Will have a 2mm plate with the same design as the body I don't have any pics of the Obeche, but it is a light coloured wood but more yellower than the Ash The Sapele in the middle is the one for the back. This may be a slow burner as regards building, as I have been i'll over the "summer "( used very loosly as those in the UK can testify to ) and still have an Acoustic to finish which should be my priority. But it is going to be difficult to stop myself from working on this project

HI Nathan, there a guitar forum here in the UK Guitar builders UK Simo who runs the forum sells among other things templates.

Take the neck off, clamp in with the back of the neck showing and hammer a chisel into the back of the neck a little at a time all the way along . eventually it should split, and take it from there.

I think he makes some good stuff. I don't like the headstock it is gross, the fret ends are to square, I would like to see them chamfered a bit, and he talks a load of rubbish most of the time. But people like it. They enjoy seeing the negative comments some have made and then posts them on his website ( well done Mattia ) it's a good PR stint for the type of clientelle that his work is aimed at, and he's got us talking about him AGAIN, how good is that, for him.

That was a good buy Andy, I was watching that piece and it is a bargain by the look of it. It's shaping up very nicely

Thanks guys. F is definately out because I want a 3 piece back so it has to be I or J. All the other designs will be the front. Initially the only design I had was A, but then I put the drawing onto the computer centered everything up and came up with the other ones. So at the moment i'm still not sure.