59 Les Paul Guitar Build. My 1st Build

[Chris G]

I've got an eye that picks up that kind of stuff......I see the same minor bump that I think you see. All in all it is much better and probably nobody will see it. On the other hand you already have and once seen you won't be able to unsee it.

You can go back to the table now or not worry about it till further along. Odds are good it will come out whenever you get to the finish sanding stage anyway.

It is looking really good, by the way.

SR

Thanks!! I agree with once you see it that's all your going to see. I brought the body to my friend at work yesterday for him to see the 2 troubled spots. He told me to take a palm sander and lightly go back and forth on the spots and it will smooth out. Last night I got a little time to try that out and it worked. I still have a bit to go, but I should have it done maybe tonight. I was hesitant to use a motorized sander at this stage, because I did not want to screw up and make it worse. I hope I get everything smoothed out tonight so I can start getting the routing done and start on the maple top.

Question. What can I use and get locally to apply to the top so I can see the grain better? That way I can start on the top and see where the best placement so I can trace the body.

[ScottR]

I use mineral spirits. Many use naptha as it evaporates more quickly. Another trick I've used is to cut the body shape out of paper or something to make a body sized and shaped window to place over your top to see what it will look like.

SR

[Muzz]

What would help is a bendy curve that you can get from craft, office supply shops etc. http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/staedtler-flexible-curves-400mm-st57160400

they are great for drawing curves and checking curves. The easiest way would be get the curves just right on a template and run around it with the router. Did you get the bottom bearing pattern following router bit yet? That and a top bearing do a great job in bringing a body flush with a template. All the best of luck with it.

[Chris G]

I use mineral spirits. Many use naptha as it evaporates more quickly. Another trick I've used is to cut the body shape out of paper or something to make a body sized and shaped window to place over your top to see what it will look like.

SR

Got some mineral sperits. Here is the top now that you can see the grain. Have a lot more to post later got a lot done.

[Chris G]

Like I said I got a lot done. On Friday I got the body completely smooth with no bumps or dips. Here is a picture. Now will all the sanding i have done, the left side does not match the right. Its close enough and I am fine with it.

After I got the body done I finished up the other body templates to match the master. Once I got the body templates done I started to route the body. I am not the best with routers, because I lac the experience. When I was routing the channel I tried to go to deep to fast and the router jumped twice and went past my template. I did not get a close up of it but you can see it. I am not worried about it, because it will be covered by the top. I know now to go slow and not to try to go to deep.

Next I started the control cavity. I decided not to use the router just because I did not want to screw it up. I used forstner bits for this part.

The cavity turned out better then I hoped for. Once I got done with the drilling I used a dremel, files, and rasp to clean up what the drill did not get.

As you can see I did not go through the body. The original 59s did not go through the body also. I will also not have any weight reduction either, since the 59s did not have any weight reduction.

Here is a picture of the top again. I have traced the body and I think I am good with the placement.

I need to route the cavity cover and drill the hole for the switch. I am trying to find a friend that has large forshner bits, so I do not have to by them and only use them for a few minutes.

[Muzz]

Looking good, the top is lovely. It's a good idea to just practice with the router, trying to take too much wood away in one go is the mistake everyone makes. I wonder how I still have a nose after my first attempts at using a router. Learn to listen to how it sounds when it is cutting well and the sound it makes as a warning when it starts to get overloaded. Great job you did on the control cavity.

[Chris G]

Looking good, the top is lovely. It's a good idea to just practice with the router, trying to take too much wood away in one go is the mistake everyone makes. I wonder how I still have a nose after my first attempts at using a router. Learn to listen to how it sounds when it is cutting well and the sound it makes as a warning when it starts to get overloaded. Great job you did on the control cavity.

Thanks!! I have been practicing with the router, but can be hard when you don't have large enough scrap to practice on. No biggie I will get better over time. I thing the top looks nice too. That was the best figured maple in the shop they had and it only cost me 35.00. Now when it comes to the pickup cavities. I am going to let one of my friends help with that. I really don't want to screw that up. Hopefully I can get the top cut and prep to glue on the body.

[Chris G]

Here is some more progress!!

I drilled the switch whole. Now for the cavities all I need to do is route for the covers. I am waiting to do that until I found the right wood I want to use for the covers and headstock. I am thinking Black walnut or Madagascar ebony.

Ruff cut the top on the band saw.

Done and I was happy with how my cutting skills are coming along.

Since I do not have a thickness sander I have to do it all by hand. Since the top glued unevenly and it has a slight bow in it. I took a plank of wood 16 inches long with 60 grit sand paper attached. I went back and forth to flatten and even out.

After the 4th round I needed to take a break.

Got the bottom side really close, but still rocks a tad bit when on the body. After putting my arms through all they can handle I went to the router and flush the body with the template.

Now I got some tear out. Here are the pics.

Question for all you pros. I know all the tear out should be routed out when doing the binding, but here is my question. Should I patch it first just in case it is a little past the binding thickness? I don't want to fix the spots if its going to cause more problems when I do that binding stage. I was gong to use the sawdust from the top and superglue.

Here is the top on the body.

Sanding down the top to even out.

I still have more sanding to do, but hopefully I glue it to the body soon.

[ScottR]

Fix the chip before routing the binding channel. The bearing on the bit will follow the chip and cut a divit otherwise. Some of that tear out will still be visible below the binding. A better looking way of fixing that would be to clean up the edges of the tear out like a tiny triangle shape and make a little piece that fits out of scrap maple and glue that in. It will take finish better that way. The CA and sanding dust trick works but will always look darker than the surrounding area and will not absorb any dye or oil.

SR

[Chris G]

Hey everyone its been a while since I posted. I have been working a lot on the guitar so lets get started on my progress.

So I had some router chip out when flush trimming my top. I was able to fix it with some advice from you all and friends. I traced the chip on some scrap maple from the top

I was able to cut it out on the band saw, prepped, glue, and clamp.

Here it does not look to good but it fits great.

Here is after its been sanded down.

The binding will cover it up and I might get lucky and will not be able to see it.

I had my buddy help me cut the 16 degree angle for the headstock. His saw burned my wood, but its will sand out.

The saw did crack the headstock a little.

I glued the crack

I had to glue the top piece to bottom to reinforce the crack and the wood was not thick enough for the headstock

Now I am real nervous about screwing up my neck. If anyone has any tips that would be great. For now I am going to put my neck on hold and continue with the body.

The top is ready for glue.

Put a generous amount of glue on the body.

Used every clamp I owned. and let clamped for 36 hours.

Clamps off and everything lined up great.

There is a couple gaps after gluing. I had the bow on that top and thought it was completely flat, but I guess I was wrong. I hope its still ok and hope the binding saves me.

Should I try and use filler to fill the gaps?

I got a large forstner bit from a friend to the the cover on the switch. I was a little off.

I am going to get the body about 90% ready then start on my neck. I want to make sure everything is ready so I can get the neck tenon perfect.

I am going to need some specialized tools to finish the project. I have an idea of what I need but what do you all suggest?

[ScottR]

You needed to get your clamping pressure closer to the edges to avoid those gaps. For clamping pressure to get to all gluing surfaces you need the clamps or cauls spacing to be roughly the thickness of the thinnest piece of wood being glued. Too much space between the areas of applied pressure results in areas of lower pressure where any wood that wants to pull away will get to do so.

I would probably fill the gaps with CA and sanding dust. Then be sure to cut your binding chanel just below the glue joint. This will hide the chip repair too, at least from the side. The top will still be visible, but it is the smallest surface of the repair. You can hide it more with a burst. I'm assuming you are going to carve the top?

SR

[Chris G]

You needed to get your clamping pressure closer to the edges to avoid those gaps. For clamping pressure to get to all gluing surfaces you need the clamps or cauls spacing to be roughly the thickness of the thinnest piece of wood being glued. Too much space between the areas of applied pressure results in areas of lower pressure where any wood that wants to pull away will get to do so.

I would probably fill the gaps with CA and sanding dust. Then be sure to cut your binding chanel just below the glue joint. This will hide the chip repair too, at least from the side. The top will still be visible, but it is the smallest surface of the repair. You can hide it more with a burst. I'm assuming you are going to carve the top?

SR

Will note in the future on the clamping. Yes I will be doing a carved top trying to find the best process online for it. What do you think the best way to do the carve?

[ScottR]

Well.....I would use palm gouges and sandpaper, but that's just me. Others would use finger planes or sanding disks on a drill or a flap disk on a right angle grinder. I'll actually be doing a bit of that last on my current build as well. You have to be carefull with that as it cuts fast and can get away from you.

You should probably read this thread from beginning to end:

SR

[curtisa]

I use scrapers and rasps for the bulk of the work, and various grades of sandpaper to even out the final texture and curve. Angle grinder+flap disk is extremely aggressive and needs to be used with care as it's easy to end up going too far. Super messy too, so if you're going to try it make sure you do it outside with plenty of ventilation and a dust mask.

[Magnus]

Ah, I'm late to the party! Long time member, but I had actually forgotten about the site for a couple of years.

I built my les paul back in 2003, and I still have to put a finish on it.

If you've never carved a top before, I'd suggest getting some wood from some place like Home Depot, that is the same thickness as your top, and practice with that. I carved three poplar tops like that to get a feel for what I was doing before I tackled the quilted maple.

I did the step method, where I routed ledges in the top where I wanted the lines to be, then sanded it smooth with an electric disk sander.

BTW, how close to a 59 Les Paul do you want to get? The top carve is a little different on the 50s Les Pauls.

And, I did a scarf joint on my neck, but I put the scarf in the headstock. It is hidden on the top by the veneer on the face of the headstock.

[Chris G]

Well.....I would use palm gouges and sandpaper, but that's just me. Others would use finger planes or sanding disks on a drill or a flap disk on a right angle grinder. I'll actually be doing a bit of that last on my current build as well. You have to be carefull with that as it cuts fast and can get away from you.

You should probably read this thread from beginning to end:

SR

Thanks Scott for the link. I read it beginning to end and a lot of useful info. I have also been looking at the forms that blackdog was looking at. My problem is skimming through and not taking it all in. That' ADD for you.

Ah, I'm late to the party! Long time member, but I had actually forgotten about the site for a couple of years.

I built my les paul back in 2003, and I still have to put a finish on it.

If you've never carved a top before, I'd suggest getting some wood from some place like Home Depot, that is the same thickness as your top, and practice with that. I carved three poplar tops like that to get a feel for what I was doing before I tackled the quilted maple.

I did the step method, where I routed ledges in the top where I wanted the lines to be, then sanded it smooth with an electric disk sander.

BTW, how close to a 59 Les Paul do you want to get? The top carve is a little different on the 50s Les Pauls.

And, I did a scarf joint on my neck, but I put the scarf in the headstock. It is hidden on the top by the veneer on the face of the headstock.

Good tips!! I have not thought about doing a practices carve but will now. I am trying to get as close to a 59, but in my mind it does not have to be exact spec. I did have to use a scarf on the headstock. The neck blank was not thick enough for a one piece neck.

Thank you curtisa!!

[Magnus]

Another thing on the top carve: the Burst guys tell me (and this is how I did my top) is the top is slightly angled at the bridge, all the way to the rear of the neck pickup. At the neck pickup, the neck angle comes in. I set my neck angle at 4 degrees, and the ABR-1 bridge is very low to the deck height, just about perfect.

Here is a link that shows what I'm talking about.

http://mountainwhimsy.com/2012/03/top-carve-2/

[Chris G]

I have no updates as now. The last few weeks have been jammed packed with family and work. Now its looking like I may get some time to work on the guitar and I have the itch. I going to start with making some detailed notes, so I don't miss anything up. I have been winging the build for the most part, but I need to start focusing on details, so I don't screw up.

I did go to the mill shop today for some ideas on control covers and the headstock veneer. They have some beautiful Brazilian ebony I think I am going to use. They said they would be able to get it thin enough for what I need.

[Prostheta]

I've learnt that winging it often ends up putting you in a position where compromises have to be made. If time is on your side, be deliberate and confident. We'll help with keeping you informed, so don't take chances.

Whichever, you'll always learn from this build and take that forward. Hopefully, "not winging it". Been there, screwed lots up.

[Chris G]

I've learnt that winging it often ends up putting you in a position where compromises have to be made. If time is on your side, be deliberate and confident. We'll help with keeping you informed, so don't take chances.

Whichever, you'll always learn from this build and take that forward. Hopefully, "not winging it". Been there, screwed lots up.

Winging was maybe a too strong of a word. I have done a ton of reading on other les paul builds and other guitar builds. I had a game plan the whole time. What I meant was I have never done anything close to this project and have not experience with wood or tools. I am going to right a detailed check list and measurements and make my final decisions on the rest of the build. With all the forms I have read and everyone doing it differently I will decide how I want to do and what will work for me.

[Prostheta]

That's true. The first time is always a test and the source of first experience with these things. A Les Paul is certainly one off the tougher ones to start with.

[killemall8]

I have never understood why people do the scarf that way, with the joint in the middle of the headstock instead of the other way around where hte scarf is on the back instead.

[Chris G]

That's true. The first time is always a test and the source of first experience with these things. A Les Paul is certainly one off the tougher ones to start with.

I always bite off more then I can chew, but I am learning a ton.

I was able to get some more work on the neck. I roughed cut the neck on the bandsaw.

I cleaned most of the excess of with the drum sander. On the tenon I used sand paper on a board to get it flat.

I finished smoothing out the neck with a palm sander and hand sanding.

The neck is 80% shaped now.

Next step is the truss rod route, tenon, glue on the ears, and so on. I going to order the truss rod, fingerboard, frets, binding, binding router bit, and inlay from Stewmac. I going to see if my buddy has some router bits that I dont have. I need the 3/16 bit for the truss rod route and some others. I am also going to make the templates for the carve. I have been practicing on some scrap wood.

[Chris G]

I have never understood why people do the scarf that way, with the joint in the middle of the headstock instead of the other way around where hte scarf is on the back instead.

I was just following a few other builds and they did the same thing. The blank was about 1/2 inch to thin so I needed to add the scarf. At the back of the headstock it does not bother me expecially my first build. I will look at flipping it next time I run into having to do one.

[Prostheta]

I have never understood why people do the scarf that way, with the joint in the middle of the headstock instead of the other way around where hte scarf is on the back instead.

Seasonal movement. Expansion in line with the grain direction can create a measurable hump around the 2nd/3rd fret depending on climate.