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JGTay

Neck through Flying V style build

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First coat of stain went on this morning.

Small area to the right of the pickups where the glue was that hasn't taken the stain.

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Similar story on the back, small area bottom right of the middle that didn't take where there was glue

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Sanded with the 240 grit again taking the majority off and then second coat of stain. Still a thin line, so will sand it back again in the morning, will probably drop down to 180 or 150 grit to see if it removes that line.

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The back looks a lot better now, but didn't take another photo, will do it tomorrow. Once the stain had fully dried had a quick look at how the silver hardware looks against the stain. Only done the body so far as I wanted to check for any defects, everything else is looking good, so once the glue line is removed I can sand up through the grades and get a nice smooth finish on it ready for the nitro.

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I was busy working through the grades today, got up to 400 grit and then had a phone call from my mum, reminding me it was fathers day, so downed tools, got cleaned up and the wife and I went out to visit our parents...

Happy Fathers day to all the dads out there! 😁

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Sanded to 1000 grit and final coat of stain done. Even coverage all over, though the light reflections don't help the photos.

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Will mask off the neck in the morning and then the first coat of nitro can be done on the body and headstock. Once the first coat is dry enough I will get the logo in place... need to get it printed tonight so it has a good amount of time to dry before the clear coats.

Have ordered the control knobs, last item other than strings, but need to know which gauge is required. 

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22 minutes ago, JGTay said:

though the light reflections don't help the photos.

No trees though......

SR

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1 hour ago, ScottR said:

No trees though......

SR

Not yet Scott, will see what I can do once the clear coats are on 😂

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After a wipe down with a micro fibre cloth and a light cleaning with white spirit the plan was to pore fill... But seeing it with the shine from the cleaning and the pores showing through it had a really nice look to it, so I am going to go ahead with the nitro. 😁

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5 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

Looks awesome mate, I like the arty solution to recessing the bridge. Looking forward to seeing some lacquer on it :) 🤘

Thanks. Got a couple of coats on today, no pics yet. Need to do a quick wetsand around the area for the logo tomorrow. Just having a few issues with the printing of the logo at the moment, have tried the recommended settings for the waterslide decals but the image comes out with a cracked eggshell look. Have tried a few different things, the only thing left is the ink... Will try on a different printer tomorrow to see if I get a better result and if not will have to buy some new ink for mine. 

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Managed to get a good quality decal print done. Must be an issue with the inks in my printer, so as I had some work to do at my parents house I used their printer. :) 

After a couple of hours sprayed them with clear, 3 coats spaced out and then cut to size and applied to the headstock...

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And the main logo on the body.

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Will leave them to dry fully over night and then the clear coats can be sprayed.

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nice build! love the back of the headstock, cool design.

Looking good!

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The control knobs have arrived and I am very happy with the look. They will really help finish it off.

Managed to get a few good coats of clear on yesterday, went lightly at first and slowly built it up. The decal edges were still visible, but knew it would require a small amount of sanding to get it right.

And so spent some this morning carefully wet sanding the decals level, took it easy and kept drying off the areas to see the progress. The headstock was first and it didn't take too long to get them level. The main logo took a while longer and I was extremely careful to make sure I didn't sand through, last thing I want is to have to redo that one...

Once it was level and I was happy with the result, I cleaned it all off, dried it and wiped with a micro fibre cloth to ensure there was no sanding dust and a final wipe down with white spirit and left it to dry.

Then I hit it again with a couple more coats of clear, which was looking really good, but then as it dried a small disaster...

Have got a few white spots in the finish, just to the left of the pickups and a couple around the main logo. They are only small and I am hoping when I do the final sand they will go, but have never had them before so unsure if they will go. I think I may not have allowed enough time for the white spirit to fully dry off and some must have been trapped in the pores.

Has anyone had this before that can offer advice?

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On ‎6‎/‎25‎/‎2020 at 11:55 AM, 10pizza said:

nice build! love the back of the headstock, cool design.

Looking good!

Thanks for that, really happy with how the volute came out.

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Have you sanded the lacquer at all? I had that issue with the bass I've just finished, it looks fined until I level sanded then some of the lacquer dust got trapped in the grain because I didn't do a good enough job or grain filling. so I grain filled again over the mostly level lacquer to fill those pours before spraying again.

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5 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

Have you sanded the lacquer at all? I had that issue with the bass I've just finished, it looks fined until I level sanded then some of the lacquer dust got trapped in the grain because I didn't do a good enough job or grain filling. so I grain filled again over the mostly level lacquer to fill those pours before spraying again.

Good to know it isn't just me. Had sanded the previous coat and cleaned it fully before this coat, made sure all sanding dust was removed. The only thing it could be is not giving enough time for the white spirit to dry off.

I will give it some time to harden before sanding again. That's the only thing with rattle cans... takes longer to cure. 

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Yes, they do! There's far more solvent to product in them, and not using the last in the cans helps get a better finish. Also, warming the cans in warm water helps with flow. Not sure if you already knew this. Sanding dust is a pain. The best solution is compressed air, however few of us have that on tap!

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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

not using the last in the cans helps get a better finish.

didn't know that, but makes sense! will keep that in mind on the next finishing job!

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Is there a danger of white spirit leaving a residue? I'm always a bit wary of it myself and would use lighter fluid in preference, as it's a lighter oil fraction. Nitrocellulose will dissolve into the existing finish when sprayed, and (I assume) would absorb small traces of sanding dust. I'm not sure if you'd actually need to wipe down with anything after sanding. Just a good dusting with a clean microfibre cloth

Lovely progress btw. Looking great 

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2 hours ago, Norris said:

Is there a danger of white spirit leaving a residue? I'm always a bit wary of it myself and would use lighter fluid in preference, as it's a lighter oil fraction. Nitrocellulose will dissolve into the existing finish when sprayed, and (I assume) would absorb small traces of sanding dust. I'm not sure if you'd actually need to wipe down with anything after sanding. Just a good dusting with a clean microfibre cloth

Lovely progress btw. Looking great 

Thanks Norris. I had been looking online and some people mentioned it can cause white spots if it hasn't evaporated fully, but I was sure it had. The only other thing is sanding dust and I guess that there is a possibility that using a micro fibre cloth didn't get all the dust out of the pores.

The good news is that a small amount of sanding with 800 grit has cleared them up, so whatever it was it hadn't gone too deep.

After the 800 grit all over I decided to go up through the grades to 5000 grit with just a few passes of each and it is looking really good, the decal edges had still been slightly visible after the nitro had been drying for a few days, but they have completely gone after todays work. I will hit it again with a couple more coats of clear and then give it time to cure before final sand and buff of the body and headstock. 

Still need to oil the neck, but have kept it covered while sorting out the clear coats, once the next coats are applied I will remove the covering so the next stages can be done. 

 

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On 6/29/2020 at 9:53 PM, JGTay said:

The good news is that a small amount of sanding with 800 grit has cleared them up, so whatever it was it hadn't gone too deep.

After the 800 grit all over I decided to go up through the grades to 5000 grit with just a few passes of each and it is looking really good, the decal edges had still been slightly visible after the nitro had been drying for a few days, but they have completely gone after todays work. I will hit it again with a couple more coats of clear and then give it time to cure before final sand and buff of the body and headstock. 

That all sounds pretty positive :)  It's coming along very nicely 

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Thanks Andy.

Made the truss rod cover yesterday in between doing some more coats of clear. 

Got a couple more coats of clear on this morning, which unless there are any issues with the final sanding should be the last coats.

This afternoon I uncovered the neck and the first lot of danish oil was applied.

Quick question @Andyjr1515 I think you have used Panga Panga for fretboards before, did you seal it with anything or just use lemon oil? 

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2 hours ago, JGTay said:

Thanks Andy.

Made the truss rod cover yesterday in between doing some more coats of clear. 

Got a couple more coats of clear on this morning, which unless there are any issues with the final sanding should be the last coats.

This afternoon I uncovered the neck and the first lot of danish oil was applied.

Quick question @Andyjr1515 I think you have used Panga Panga for fretboards before, did you seal it with anything or just use lemon oil? 

Nowadays, I tend to do a light version of tru-oil 'slurry and buff' on fretboards.  I find that they don't go dry as quickly as lemon oiled boards tend to.  Danish oil applied the same way would probably do just as well.

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Okay, thanks Andy. I may do a light application of Danish oil on it. Will make a decision tomorrow when I uncover the fretboard. 

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What lemon oil are you using, Andy? Generally the term is meaningless and most often describes a scented petroleum distillate cleaner rather than an actual oil. I used to use one years ago to clean human remains out of fingerboards until I learnt simpler and less expensive options. 

If I recall, isn't Panga Panga very similar to Wengé?

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