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MiKro

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Everything posted by MiKro

  1. MiKro
    First off you have no posts in bridge, so that will help add height to the bridge. If the bridge is too low then In reality though I would maybe look at it like an Archtop style bridge setup. using some type of wooden saddle to raise the TOM bridge to spec. This would add visual continuity as well as fix your issue. If the bridge is too high you can always recess the body some. Just my 0.02 cents though. MK
  2. MiKro
    Not even close Mike. Still have 4 or 5 guitar models I would like to build that I designed, but most likely will never happen. Also have other things that I would love to do that won't happen either. It is what it is, my health takes front seat, getting old sucks Big Donkey Balls, having health issues added to that don't help. LMAO!!!! MK
  3. MiKro
    Finish the last few guitars I need to do and then sell everything afterwards. Getting out of the business. Health issues are taking hold of me. MK
  4. MiKro
    Before I went to CNC, I used scrappers all of the time. I still do when they are needed. One of the best tools in the woodworking world. MK
  5. MiKro
    @TD1979 First thing I learned many, many years ago, for every coat of clear lacquer, allow 10 days min to harden since you most likely do not have a room to keep the temp slightly higher and constant. Even some 2K clear needs this. The second, was how FAST the buffing wheel rotates. Any more than 800 RPM is too fast. 600 RPM is optimal with a 12"diameter buffing wheel Third, never allow excessive heat to build up in or on the surface while buffing. Do not press it to the wheel, let the wheel do the work and pull away often. Forth, as suggested as well by @Bizman62, use incremental polishes. Fifth, always use a clean buffing wheel to start a NEW polish and grit. Just my hard earned 0.02 cents worth!!!!! MK
  6. MiKro
    BTW, how many frets are on the 24" neck that you have? If it were a conversion it would have 20 maybe 21 frets and still fit? MK
  7. MiKro
    Unfortunately, I do not do commission work. I was hoping for your sake though that it would be easier for you as far as the conversion neck. Good luck with this, You may want to reach out to Warmoth about a conversion neck though. Their base line necks are in the $150 range including conversion necks. Just something to look in to . MK
  8. MiKro
    @jowilmei, Double check that the 24" scale neck is not a conversion neck as well? Then you could use either the 24-3/4" conversion or a 25.5" standard. You never know until it is all measured out? See image, this is for a 24-3/4" conversion from a 25-5" scale .Something to check first. It is common to the Asian community to see a shorter scale. Not knocking them at all, but they are usually of a slightly smaller stature with smaller hands. I have a few Korean born customers and I make custom necks for them for that exact reason. Just my seeing it from the outside, looking in. MK
  9. MiKro
    I am glad it is done Mike, now you have a new skill to add as well. CNC is all about knowing your machine, the work, and the software to make everything as best you can. MK
  10. MiKro
    Thank you for clearing that up for me @curtisa. Like I said I have limited knowledge on this. MK
  11. MiKro
    I am just guessing here most likely. What @curtisahas said makes sense, Also what I have always understood is that the 12th fret is the one that is perpendicular in the fan. That would make the nut and the bridge location as part of that fan so as to intonate at the 12th fret and also have the correct harmonic for each string. The image that you show is hard to see any relation to this, other than you are using a zero fret as the nut. The rest just does not support any of this from what I can see? Just my observations and VERY limited knowledge of this. mk
  12. MiKro
    As far as taps, use the newer spiral flute type, they work so much better than standard taps. Depending on the size you need, an 8-32 or 10-32 should do fine for the couplers Tap link
  13. MiKro
    As far as couplers go I quit using the ones that have the Spriral cut as well as the Buna-N type. I only use these type now and have never had a failure. I did modify them though to add a set screw to go against the flat of the shafts. MK Link To Couplers
  14. MiKro
    There were also some made with 24 5/8" or 24.625" I do not remember how many and what years though? I am sure it was 60s or earlier.? So Gibson has made them at 24. 9/16" - 24.5625 , 24 5/8" 24.625 and also 24 3/4" -24.75 I think that was all they did for the LP? Some of the other shapes they had I am not sure of. MK
  15. MiKro
    @mistermikev, Another option for inlay material is to use pearl powder or flakes, like they use for automotive work in paints. Mix it heavy in pearl with a bartop clear epoxy. Make sure the DOC is not to deep as the pearl flakes will settle in the epoxy. Also use a thin base coat of either Gold, Silver or White in the area depending on the pearl and color before., this will enhance it's ability to reflect properly. Once sanded or skimmed with the cnc and sanded, it will polish right up. Just some outside knowledge I have had luck with. I have used pearl from here. Pearl Link mk
  16. MiKro
    Like I said, to me it would be faster to make a new body or just turn it over like Jimmie did.. I have built a Strat from scratch other than the neck in about 24 hours so it is not beyond me. Too each his own I guess. Have a good one. MK
  17. MiKro
    Not sure why you would waste the time on that? It would be quicker to make a new body the correct way since you plan to make that many adjustments to the original body. Just remove the neck and reuse it on the new body. Just my 0.02 cents. MK
  18. MiKro
    Has it been 10 years? Wow how time is moving forward. LOL!!! MK
  19. MiKro
    I am very happy to hear that you are still using that setup John. MK
  20. MiKro
    1mm is only 0.0394". Are you using hardtail bridges? If so then make a new bridge plate with moved holes and then take the saddles and mill them on each side and remove about 0.0025" on each side. This will reduce the width approx 1mm or 0.0394", The Tele bridge would take more, but I think it would be doable as well. MK
  21. MiKro
    I have not really thought about a wah pedal since about 1973. LOL!!!!! I had a used Vox wah I bought in 1972.. Wish I still had that one now hidden away. mk
  22. MiKro
    I would try some more sanding then another layer of epoxy. Use a heat gun or electric hairdryer to heat the epoxy once applied to eliminate bubbles in the epoxy. just my 0.02 cents worth. MK
  23. MiKro
    It all started with a stick.
  24. MiKro
    Looks like it is just a covered/glorified pickup ring to me. Should be somewhat easy to machine once the measurements were made. Just my 0.02cents, MK
  25. MiKro
    No problem was just trying to help with a solution. I use the Consew types on small equipment. Convert the hall sensor pedal or lever to a POT for speed control. They make great consistent torque for there size and weight over a range of RPM. You may still be able to program in the feature though. mk.
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