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Here's one I'm working on.

This is just the very first coats of lac on it, nowhere near done yet.

It will be blacked out on the sides, and another darker outer shade of red added for the burst effect.

This pic is just showing the base color, gotta clear and level before the next colors go on.

So it will be this color, then much darker red, then black.

HAMMERHEAD.jpg

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Thanks all for the nice words. :D

Drak, would you mind sharing what colors, and process you have used so far?

Yes. The initial dark color is 50/50 Solar Lux Blood Red and Solar Lux Black.

Solar Lux is an alcohol-based anilyne dye.

Sanded that back, then the next color was 98% Lockwood Lemon Yellow (waterbased anilyne dye) and ONE DROP of Stew-Mac Colortone Cherry Red mixed together, that's it so far as colors go.

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I've been playing around with the idea of applying black stain, then sanding back...but when I sand back, pretty much all of the black comes out. You can see a bit of it in the grain, but not enough. Naybe I'm not putting enough stain down? How much stain do do you put on there before sanding back?

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I've been playing around with the idea of applying black stain, then sanding back...but when I sand back, pretty much all of the black comes out. You can see a bit of it in the grain, but not enough. Naybe I'm not putting enough stain down? How much stain do do you put on there before sanding back?

I thought that flame stuff was boring? :D

(hijacking Drak's thread here <ahttp://www.projectguitar.com/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png' alt=':D'> ) You need to use a pretty strong mix on your stain (i.e. 1:5 Colortone to H20). The "normal" ratio on the label won't do it. Depends on the look you want, but the sandback won't look dark enough until you get some finish on it, then it darkens up and starts looking nice and deep. And Drak will tell you not to use black unless you're doing a red or blue stain... black under anything with yellow/amber in it will give you a greenish tinge.

Mike

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I thought that flame stuff was boring? :D

Don't believe I mentioned anything about flame :D

I'm going for more of a Gibson cherry red/mahogany thing, but I believe a key ingredient in that is staining with black (or another dark color?) and sanding back. But maybe that's a completely different process from what Drak's doing here.

Nice to see a non-tele too... I'll forgive the flame for this time B)

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Some info from deep within the Castle walls: :D

1. Stain/sand back only really works good on highly figured woods. Quilt, flame, burl, ...like that.

2. It is also dependant on the quality of the figure as to how much effect you can get out of it.

A 2A top won't look nearly as good, or 'enhanced', as a 5A top will.

3. The 'effect' of the sandback is totally up to you, where you stop sanding back is how much effect you'll get out of it. Sand back just a little, you get a lot of effect, but the overall look will be darker. Sand back a lot, the effect is minimized, and the color will be lighter overall, since there is not so much dark dye left in the quilt.

4. One reason I cut the black 50% with red is to 'lean' the yellow color away from possibly being green, even tho I used black and yellow (which will make green), the red was the 'equalizer' in the equation that made them play nice together. :D

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OH MAN!!!! I LOVE IT, now I know its your axe but Drak my friend leave that color alone

I can see this thing with some nice black Parts and some of them black EMG les paul styled pickups like the ones Wes used on his beast

any way man

30762974_l.gifWICKED AXE30762974_l.gif

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Thanks rokeros for that pic. I'm going to do another one, and I'm going to make it more like your pic than the present one, although I did mine red for a reason, that's what I was shooting for.

The differences?

1.Mine used a lot more red than he did.

His is far more dark browns and yellows, which is true tiger-eye, than mine, which is much more red-oriented.

2. Also, to get that really bright yellow, you need to start with some Pure White Top Shelf Grade-A quilt.

Most Maple quilt is rather brownish when you wet it, and the natural color/darkness/brownness of the wood itself will take away from the really spectacular bright yellow look of his. It's gotta be really white white Maple to begin with to get that brightness.

3. jer, I sand back to 220, but I'll give you some more info.

Sanding to 220 is correct if you want to keep the reflections of the quilt basically 'even'. If you start to move up in grits, (I've gone all the way to 4000) what happens is that the reflections of the quilt will become more 'polar opposite' of each other.

What I mean is when you look at it from the bottom, you'll see the quilt of the left side enhanced, but the right side looks dead, and when you look at it from the top, the right side will be enhanced, but the left side will appear 'dead'. Keeping the grit to around 220 keeps the reflections somewhat the same.

This only applies if you have a bookmatched top. If you used a single piece of quilt for the whole top, then the whole thing will appear 'dead' from say, the bottom, and 'alive' from the top, since all the reflection will be moving the same direction, but moving up in grits only enhances this effect.

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looking fantastic as usual drak.

just wondering what happened to spaltosaurus? the links to the pics in the original thread are broken.

(please don't tell me WOD ate it :D )

cheers

darren

Edited by dash
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Spaltosaurous (100% rotton spalt), Rawhide (quilt/cowskull), Wrangler (spalt/cowskull), BlueStar (partial spalt), Birdy (birdseye), one or two others ...all the Teles are safe and sound, waiting for final buffouts and assembly.

They're resting comfortably in the attic-chambers of the Castle, far far from WOD, who resides in the darkest, dankest bottommost nether regions of the Castle.

Hell, even I don't go down there when I can avoid it, except to feed him occasionally :D

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