onelastgoodbye Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Hi guys so here's what I've been working on for the last couple of months (another strat derivative,really ) all merbau neckthrough no separate fretboard carbon fiber laminated on the front (still in doubt whether i'll do the back or not) lots and lots of mistakes... the black stuff is just paint to prevent the wood from peeking through the carbon (currently sanding it back off) the white stuff is polyester car body filler (I'll probably sand it out and use epoxy instead) the carbon still needs a few heavy coats of epoxy then loads of sanding (it'll look A LOT better when finished) the fretboard will also be laminated, I'm doing that on a separate mold, though. I'll get some more info up once I've gotten a bit more sleep; in the meantime here's some pics for ya. front back volute plug_thingie headstock back_again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibanez_crazy Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Wow I dont think youll have any problems reaching tose top frets. Very cool indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 That's pretty interesting! I'm looking forward to more information on this project. How is that lower contour on the back? It looks interesting but is it comfortable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord-of-the-strings Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I like it, but I believe it'd look a lot more professional and smoother if you had the area where the horns sprout out of towards the middle of the body a little rounder instead of straight angles like that, just my .02$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicidecustom Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 looks cool, i've been waiting to see someone tackle an all carbon finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I like it, but I believe it'd look a lot more professional and smoother if you had the area where the horns sprout out of towards the middle of the body a little rounder instead of straight angles like that, just my .02$ I'd agree with a smoother transition in that area as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 +1 on the smoother transition!! I think there are a lot of really nice design elements and features on this build and i look forward to seeing it done. Is the finish on the back going to be solid, if so i can probably forgive the car body filler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 -1 on smooth transition. I like it the way it is. The angles fit the them and are what make it unique. There are other unorthodox pointy areas as well, and by the time everything's smoothed out, the originality is gone. One could easily make a case for the upper "horn" being too long, too, but I think it's all part of the character. Neat! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I actually really like the basic design a lot, but to me it still looks like a prototype, like it's 1 or 2 revisions away from what it should really look like in the end. Good luck on it tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I actually really like the basic design a lot, but to me it still looks like a prototype, like it's 1 or 2 revisions away from what it should really look like in the end. Good luck on it tho! On second look, I think I agree with you Drak. Leave the basic design alone. I do think it might need a bit of detail because, as you state, it looks a bit like a prototype. I like the bevel for the right arm - maybe a bit of softening of some of the harder edges? Not sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 but to me it still looks like a prototype, like it's 1 or 2 revisions away from what it should really look like in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 - glued the neck to the wings, then I realized i'd forgotten about the fret slots (won't be easy to cut them afterwards since the fretboard doesn't stick out) This is gonna be hardcore... But first of all, why is the fretboard at the same level as the top? BTW, is the fretboard radiused already? If it is, you'll get lot of help when slotting.. If not... I don't know.. When I first saw the design I was like.. this is crazy... Then I saw the carbon fibre.. this guy is pretty crazy.. Then I saw the epoxy finish... this guy is mental! All in a good way. I would love to see this guitar finish nicely. Desgin wise, it looks like a candy to play. I can see lots of creativity in this guitar, which I find fascinating. Keep up the good work and hope you'll learn as much as you can! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted July 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 But first of all, why is the fretboard at the same level as the top? BTW, is the fretboard radiused already? If it is, you'll get lot of help when slotting.. the fretboard is level with the body because I figured there's no real reason why a fretboard should stick out...there's less clearance for picking, but if anything it will force me into a lighter picking style, which is a good thing imo.A traditional fretboard is a bit easier to build though, so it's not something I'll repeat on future guitars. the fretboard has a compound radius from 10"-ish at the nut to completely flat at the 24th fret. meanwhile..phase 1 of the "strategically placed big custom dragon graphic in black/white/red to hide wood tearout". Not exactly a dragon anymore. I can't take credit for the design, it's heavily based on(well...shamelessly copied) something I saw on pamelina h.'s site. She does great work! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 This is the craziest guitar I've seen in ages! (in a good way) I agree with some of the comments about the body shape- it looks good as it is now, but with some tweaking it could go from good to great IMHO- I like the back, but the horns look like with a little modification they could be improved. Not that I dont like it as it is... I just think it could be improved slightly Anyway- just my opinion. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 I'm really liking the way this is going! Keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 Really nice Tim...lot's of good ideas...and a few worries... Like...how are you going to cut the fret slots and those strings will be as close to the body as they are to the frets, or so it seems (unless therer is some tilt back)...oh, and of course...where's the sustainer??? On the plus side, I really like the back carve (very parker-esque) and the shape. I like the choice of materials, but Merbu is very splintery and I don't quite see how you are going to be able to repair that one along the neck subtly. Merbu is also kind of oily, but would take an oil finish well which would look cool with the high gloss front. I wonder how well the epoxy is going to stick to it, but, I suspect the paint will provide a bit of a sealer and the natural grain quite a bit to key into. I thought of doing just this with my reverse strat idea a while back but anticipated that the curves would cause problems with the epoxy flow and possible sand out as you experienced...a totally flat surface would work out fine, but not suit the design in both cases. Some great ideas, and will be interesting to see how you overcome the problems (particuarly fretting it) but a fantastic learning experience...perhaps it is a prototype of sorts, but if you can get the frets on it, should play ultra-fine! Innovative as always... pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted July 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 there's a neck angle, clearance for the strings is around 5mm where you're picking, wich isn't a lot, but it's enough. the fret slots in the cutaway area will indeed be finnicky but I think it can be done. I wonder if it's possible to rout the slots with a dremel, provided I find a right size bit (I know driskill routs them on his cnc). The frets will be perpendicular to the bottom edge of the fretboard (another idea), so it would be pretty easy to buid a jig that uses the edge as a guide. One thing that isn't finished yet is the carbon laminate I'll put on the fretboard. I'll make a negative mould for that, so I can get the compound radius just right and have a perfect finish. You're right about the Merbau being prone to splintering. It has funny grain sometimes too, which can cause unpleasant surprises when chiseling.It's hard to tell wether the grain is going 'up' or 'down', so when you're chiseling in the wrong direction, you dig into the wood and pull chunks out. bit of a pain when doing the cutaway. I've had bad experiences with painting merbau. It just won't stick.when I painted with oil-based paint you could pull it right off again! waterbased seems better as it soaks into the wood, if only a little. The merbau refuses to glue with pva, too; and even epoxy doesn't stick all that good (as you alluded, but it'll hold well enough though). The chips and dings will be filled with epoxy+wood dust. If that still doesn't (cosmetically) do, I'll camouflage it with the graphic. the epoxy is really great for a flat surface. If you make sure the guitar is level, it flows out really really well; much better than I anticipated. Any radius or bevel complicates matters though.It's hard to assess the remaining thickness of the epoxy as there's a sort of optical illusion at play (especially with carbon fiber, which tends to look "3d-ish"). I bet you could get by with a small radiused sanding block though, and a lot of stamina. and as for the sustainer...I'll get round to it..eventually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 (edited) Merbau should glue fine with PVA, its the only wood I use for fretboards now, and I'm gonna find other ways to incorporate it into my guitars. Now if your pieces are particularly oily, take a knife with a curved blade(a chisel works, but I dont like chisels anymore), sharp enough to shave with, and work your way down the timber you are gluing, peeling up ultra thin lines in the timber, the glue will seep in under these, and when you clamp the joint they compress back down and the joint will hold very well. I'll head out now, and get a pic. In my experience if you don't do this, the glue will never penetrate the surface of the timber. Sorry about the rubbish pic, camera batteries died, and I can't find anymore. The lines are quite deep and allow the glue to seep down into the grain. Edited July 19, 2006 by Mr Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted July 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 progress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackenzie Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 that is crazy! in a good way of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 What are you using to apply that graphic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Merbau should glue fine with PVA, its the only wood I use for fretboards now, and I'm gonna find other ways to incorporate it into my guitars. Hyunsu uses it for neck exclusively. I had the pleasure to make one guitar with him last fall, it is not finish still needs to be painted, but the neck is a set neck made from merbau. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC02386.jpg He loves the tone that it gives the guitar, very "solid" toneI must add, like a percussive sound. he played one guitar with 2 different necks maple and merbau and the tone from the merbau was tigher to say the least. I hope that my guitar will sound as good as his!!! Here is a pic of the present state it should be finished before christmas or as soon as I receive it from Korea. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC02402.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted August 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2006 Now if your pieces are particularly oily, take a knife with a curved blade(a chisel works, but I dont like chisels anymore), sharp enough to shave with, and work your way down the timber you are gluing, peeling up ultra thin lines in the timber thanks for the tip, I've been using this technique for gluing the carbon fretboard laminate and it works very well (I used epoxy though). What are you using to apply that graphic? It's hand painted He loves the tone that it gives the guitar, very "solid" toneI must add, like a percussive sound. he played one guitar with 2 different necks maple and merbau and the tone from the merbau was tigher to say the least. I hope that my guitar will sound as good as his!!! I hope mine will as well! Your merbau looks quite different from mine, mine is pretty red, like a dark mahogany. maybe it's a regional thing, or a change in colour from aging (this slab has been lying in the basement for a 30-something years). Since I can't seem to find a decent job around here, there's lots of free time to work on the guitar (anybody got work for a prototyper/industrial designer? I'm willing to travel ) Progress: the backside of the body is pretty much finished, still need to apply some graphics to hide the tearout on the neck and it'll be ready for clear. funny thing is I'm starting to like the back better than the front... Next up is the mold for laminating the fretboard carbon.There's two wooden rails that match the fretboard radiuses on both ends of the fretboard; and then I used a straight aluminium profile to err..."brush" plaster in between, using the rails as guides.This then results in a perfect negative form of a compound radius fretboard. The plastic on top is self-adhesive vinyl to prevent the epoxy ( which you laminate the carbon with) from sticking to the mold. Normally you'd use wax for that, but this is a lot faster, and a sure-fire way to achieve a good surface finishing. proper waxing is one of the hardest parts in moldmaking and I've had some bad experiences with parts sticking to and subsequently destroying the molds. This is the result. I wasn't completely satisfied with it as there's a lot of "pitting" from tiny air pockets being trapped in between the carbon cloth and the mold. Nothing that can't be solved with a little poly lacquer, but I'm definitely gonna start vacuum bagging in the future to avoid it. I couldn't source fiberoptics locally, so had to settle for leds. As expected, not a fun soldering job, and the routing is even worse. dremel + crappy bit + radiused neck + already glued body wings + ptp soldered led's = lots of cursing and swearing Luckily it works very well (hope it stays that way). the leds on frets 3 - 12 are visible from front and side; leds 15 - 24 only on front. Finally, the leds were then epoxied in (the epoxy managed to seep into the truss adjusting slot...grrr) and the carbon laminate glued on. I just taped the neck, body and front of the laminate off with vinyl tape, put epoxy in between, then wrapped everything (tightly) with regular paper tape( guess it's sort of like an advanced saran wrap technique ). Worked really well, as you can see here, much to my own surprise. Things are starting to shape up, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeiscosRock Posted August 12, 2006 Report Share Posted August 12, 2006 That has to be oen of the coolest guitars ive ever seen. I love the innovation. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughes Posted August 12, 2006 Report Share Posted August 12, 2006 id love a graphic like that on my guitar....i mean wow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.