Titebond

[low end fuzz]

i originally started using t.b.2 because it was the the newest hottest thing when i started; the few things before that i ever glued was old canadian tire yellow carpenters glue;

about a year or two ago i discovered t.b. 3 which i told myself 'if its new, it must be improved'!

i never notice too much faults in the way of glueing; but when i was using a varnish on a body the film seemed to follow the glue lines like a pit; there wasnt any noticable 'glue lines' but my centre lines and sandwich areas; and was told that t.b. 3 was too thin and left wide areas in the wood unseen by the naked eye!? and that the original is the only one worth using , especially when multi lamming(?) any opinions?

thanx

[westhemann]

yes...use the original.

[spazzyone]

+1 on the 1

[fryovanni]

Yes, The original.

[Setch]

The original.

Both 2 and 3 are formulated to me water proof (or resistant) which effects their final hardness, and makes them more succeptable to creep. Unless you plan to paddle a canoe with your guitar, stick with TB original.

After all, if the new products are simply improved versions of the old product, why do they still sell the original?

[Bozo Destructo]

Though I will probably use 1, I must point out that 2 is perfectly acceptable. Ken Smith, a reknowned luthier (specializes in top-shelf basses), will ONLY use 2. After a steam pipe broke one afternoon, he found (after the weekend) that all of the joints using 1 were ruined beyond repair, and the ones with 2 were perfectly fine.

As for 3, well, I might just use 3 as an experiment - I have a bottle of that, too.

[westhemann]

2 will creep unfortunately..it never really dries in the center of the laminate like the original will,and since steam ppipes breaking near guitars is not really something that happens often,i would say that having dry glue in your joints is better than being waterproof.

i think you have to weigh the probabilities a little better than that.for example,that guy could have just stored the basses from there on out in a room without a steam pipe...or in an airtite case,rather ghan using titebond II and risking creeping gluelines in every instrument after.

as an analogy(robert..hehe)you invent a glue which is impervious to nuclear attack,but as a side effect it makes every guitar it is used on can never be played through an electric amp,because if electricity touches it,it will explode like plastique...so do you use the glue in case of nuclear attack so that before you die of radiation you can play your guitar one last time(without an amp)?or do you just accept the fact that if the bomb drops you will just have to make a new one...

okay...sorry

[Prostheta]

At least my valve amps will be fine in case of local EMP.

[Nitefly SA]

As in Hollywood, the original is always best. The sequels are okay, have their own little parts but never as good as the original.

[guitar2005]

as an analogy(robert..hehe)you invent a glue which is impervious to nuclear attack,but as a side effect it makes every guitar it is used on can never be played through an electric amp,because if electricity touches it,it will explode like plastique...so do you use the glue in case of nuclear attack so that before you die of radiation you can play your guitar one last time(without an amp)?or do you just accept the fact that if the bomb drops you will just have to make a new one...

okay...sorry

+1 on the nuclear attack.

[Mattia]

titebond original. II creeps, dont bother with it. want moisture resistance? Don't build with wood. Or use epoxy.

[vanemeth]

What about titebond and waterbased finishes like stew mac or ktm-9?

[Desopolis]

its my understanding that III is ment for colder weather, at least the cabinet maker told me that..

the body of my guitar is joined with III and is seamless...

[rhoads56]

Though I will probably use 1, I must point out that 2 is perfectly acceptable. Ken Smith, a reknowned luthier (specializes in top-shelf basses), will ONLY use 2. After a steam pipe broke one afternoon, he found (after the weekend) that all of the joints using 1 were ruined beyond repair, and the ones with 2 were perfectly fine.

As for 3, well, I might just use 3 as an experiment - I have a bottle of that, too.

And thats a PRIME example why you SHOULDNT use two. Under normal operating conditions, your guitar isnt usually placed under a broken steam pipe, so why does it need to survive this accident? What about when a set neck, fretboard, soundboard, binding, brace, neck, etc etc etc need to be removed (to fix/replace) WITH steam for proffessional repairs??

[Desopolis]

good point, but what about laminates, tops, and body joints? I wouldnt figure they need to come apart often, if ever.

Might be a good idea to use somthing like that on a set neck(with a deeper tenon) so when steaming, the body/top doesnt come apart.

[westhemann]

desopolis...steaming loose a joint does not work like that...when you steam it,it softens the glue,but pressure still has to be applied to remove the piece...and after sitting unsteamed for a while the glue resets

[fryovanni]

If it is a part that is most likely going to be removed for service. HHG is a good choice. HHG also does not creep. I use it for bridges, glued acoustic necks, Kerfed lining, and bracing. The biggest advantage is not that it takes less steam or heat(it takes a little more), but that it can be re-glued(full strength) without surface prep issues. I use Titebond original for body joints, fretboards, laminates, and most other parts that would not normally need to be removed unless something unexpected happens. It can still be removed and repaired with a little extra surface prep(but you hopefully won't ever go there). Titebond is nice because it gives you extra working time, and of course you don't have to mix or heat it. If there is a great source for "best" choices in glue to use. It would be from experienced repair guys. They have a much larger oportunity to see how glues have held up over time, and what has not. They also have to deal with the more common repair and maint. work. An average full time repair guy will see 1000's more guitars than I will ever see. I have the highest degree of respect for great repair luthiers. They have amazing knowledge and skills.

If you use a wash coat of shellac(dewaxed) to seal the body. You will not have issue with the waterbased finishes. Shellac is a great sealer as it sticks to most anything, seals pretty well, and does not soak or wick into the wood. It is a great way to seal up binding routes before you use CA to attach it(prevents the CA from wicking into the grain).

Peace,Rich

[rhoads56]

good point, but what about laminates, tops, and body joints? I wouldnt figure they need to come apart often, if ever.

Might be a good idea to use somthing like that on a set neck(with a deeper tenon) so when steaming, the body/top doesnt come apart.

They dont usually, but why would you be putting hot fans of steam onto a body lamination?? Trust me, its not a problem.

[erikbojerik]

One.

Check, one.

Is this thing on?

[Drak]

2 and 3 are made to NEVER REALLY DRY ALL THE WAY. This gives the glue some ~wiggle room~ when climactic conditions warrant the wood will expand or contract.

I would hope no one here wants or needs any wiggle room in their builds.

[goat]

Duct Tape and Tie wire!!!

[Drak]

Saran Wrap!

[Prostheta]

Spit n' sawdust.

[brewu22]

rubber bands and peanut butter

[Setch]

The force