ibnaz5150 Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 Curious here what others use for routing tight radius such as 1/4 or 3/16" . I've burned up several plexi templates...moved on to hard board with a 50/50 result . For certain I don't want to take that chance when applying to my actual piece! I actually did this to my rosewood body and got lucky ...real lucky!I went to make more copys of the same template and said EEEEEEEE not good..burned up my master...off to make another...again!My method which obviously is not working was riding a 1/4" straight bit along my template.I was using just the shaft obviously however...friction,heat what have you desires the bit to dig into the corners of the template. I've spent so much time making the templates only to ruin them.UGHHHHHH !!! I'm thinking of using a 5/16" template bushing with a 7/32 bit .I'd have to oversize my templates doing this but I think it may work nicely. Curious here what you use to do the job! Thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 Just keep the router moving, and keep the shanks clean, or get a bearing guided template bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 Just keep the router moving, and keep the shanks clean, or get a bearing guided template bit. hey Setch.....believe me I keep the bit moving in the corners knowing what can happen...yet still as I said it's a 50/50 chance the bit will dig into the corners which in turn onto my work piece. I have a 3/8" bearing template bit I aquired through stewmac yet the radius is too rounded for my taste for a dimarizo route or recessed floyd. I'm sure they use a smaller bit and a cnc machine in the factory's to acheieve this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 Why not just drill the corners that have a tight radius and use a depth stop to ensure you don't drill too deep? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 I've used 1/4" cutters, running the shank against templates, but I generally use 12mm MDF for my templates. I also hoggout all the material with a 1/2" or 3/8" template bit before using the 1/4" to tighten the corners of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 I bought one of these StewMac bearing bits --the smaller one is great for exactly what you're trying to do. It's easily the sharpest and cleanest cutting of the bearing bits I've bought, and much cheaper than what I've had to pay over here. Definitely worth the price in the time and hassle I've saved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 I bought one of these StewMac bearing bits --the smaller one is great for exactly what you're trying to do. It's easily the sharpest and cleanest cutting of the bearing bits I've bought, and much cheaper than what I've had to pay over here. Definitely worth the price in the time and hassle I've saved. I have both 1/2 and 3/8 bits your talking about.The 3/8 is still too rounded for these routes. Looks funky in my book going on a very stealthy RG body. Far as the drilling the corners ....tried that...seems I always get wander off my centerlines...regardless a ton of tedius measuring. The way I look at is ..delvelop a system that works effectivly then your good to go for the next and the next etc etc. I thought of actually using some scrap walnut or maple(1/2 or 3/4) for the template...applying oil,epoxy etc to harden it up even more. The templates I made before was out of 1/4 plexi and 3/16 hard board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 I like to make my templates thicker than that. For one, it makes it easier to route shallow cavities without specialised cutters, and it also makes the template tougher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 www.routerbits.com they ship fast and they have a large selection of template bits..as a side note,those stewmac templates are worthless...they are too thin,so the bearing doesn't make full contact and the second a bearing sticks,the acrylic melts...i friggin hate that...so now i use 3/4" mdf for templates... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 www.routerbits.com they ship fast and they have a large selection of template bits..as a side note,those stewmac templates are worthless...they are too thin,so the bearing doesn't make full contact and the second a bearing sticks,the acrylic melts...i friggin hate that...so now i use 3/4" mdf for templates... I'm going to agree with ya on that one.....I bought the set to save a few bucks...paid 50.00!Don't want to bash stewmac here however it's wise to shop around 1st cuz alot of their prices are sky high.I like the 1/2" but the 3/8 I used once only...it really did'nt offer a tighter corner than the half...to my eye. I already bought a few bits from routerbits.com.they are awesome! BTW...their whiteside brand which has always served me well in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Only feasible way, as I see it, if ýou can't get the 1/4" bit to work (also, I'd use 1/2" ply for the template if riding the shank against it, and if you want to keep it good; MDF compresses slightly, which is fine with bearings, not so great without): drill out the corners first, route from there. If it's still not clean, get good with a chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 On this one, and all the EMG's the corners are 1/4" I just make a template and then mark the corners and drill with a 1/4" forstener bit, then I rout with the template using a 1/2 or 3/16 bit. And sometimes like in that case I fine tuned the edges with sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 (edited) I use 1/2" to 5/8" mdf for most of my templates. With a 3/4" long cutting bit and shaft bearing it makes for the perfect initial cutting depth. Any thinner template means that you have to make a deep first cut (over 1/2") with that bit = too much work/heat, too many shavings at once, too much to go wrong and hard on the bit. I like to cut about 1/4" to 3/8" depth at a time. By the time I get past the 3/4" depth mark I remove the template and use the first pass as my bearing guide. But those tight corners require a smaller diameter bit, just need to hit the area in one quick pass while barely touching the template material. Edited January 27, 2007 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 What type of router are you using?. fixed speed or multi? For about $30 you can get a speed controller for a fixed speed router at woodcraft or rockler. Just because the bit is a smaller diameter does not mean you can't slow it down some. I run many 1/2" and smaller bits at around 12000 rpm ( even down to 6000 rpm) when in tight corners so I don't burn the wood. Try it, you might find it will help with your circumstances. Just remember to take less deep passes when you slow it down, so get your cuts closer to your template when possible. Just my 2 cents MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 Thanks for all the feedback. Guess there many ways to skin a cat. I'm always willing to learn or try something new. I have a porter cable 691 series....believe it's their bottom of the barrel. No soft start,fixed speed with a fixed base. I'm really starting to hate it however it's getting the job done and I've adapted to it. Turning it off and on can be a real disaster in tight route situations. I ended up plugging it into a switched outlet on the floor and use my foot to turn it off and on....much safer!I use a forstner bit to take out most of the mass the go from there...this is where a plunge would help!...then again I'm saving my bits! I made a template out some 3/4" oak yesterday ...if I had some hickory I would of used that... . I'm already eyeing up some different routers but that's down the road. I did discover a nifty bit ....a flush trim 1/4" spiral bit. Bearing is on the bottom obviously. You could duplicate any cavity on a guitar with that...then flip her upside down on a router table to make multiple templates. Bit runs 32.00. Hey Maiden... nice work! See you use the aluminum pipe for your hanger/handle. I made a stand out of some scrap 3/4" galvanized pipe . I put my 1"aluminum pipe over that with the twanger attached and I can spin her every which way when finishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 690's hardly a bottom of the barrel router, although I would've sprung (and did, in fact) for the variable speed version. A router speed controller from Harbor Freight (f'r instance) will sort out that problem though. Since I got my fixed base router, I don't think I've wanted/been tempted to use my plunge; I pre-forstner pickup routes, so turning it on, then angling it in to clean up the last 1/16" depth in the middle, and then cleaning out the edges, works just great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I do the same Mattia. Thought about the varible speed control.woodworker supply has em for 45.00.I'm skeptical with harbor freight tools. Recieved some real junk from them in the past. Probably get the variable speed gadget and a D-handle base and I'll be happy. Right now it's back and forth between the table and hand use since I only have the one base. This way I can keep the fixed base on the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 Turning it off and on can be a real disaster in tight route situations. tell me about it.i bought a new routerfrom harbor freight recently because i wanted a little extra horsepower and speed for the bubinga i was routing,and the damn thing kicks so hard when turning off and on it is dangerous...it kicked right into my template and ruined the template and severely gouged the top of my guitar body....luckily the gouge was only about 1/8" deep,so i just thickness sanded past it...but i put that router away and i won't use it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 You can look for a router "pattern bit set" from rockler. It is a bit and collet set to cut matching patterns. It has a 1/8" cutter and can get very tight corners. You will need to use the collet set to create patterns for this system which isnt too much work though. EMG routes look very clean and tight with setup. It's very usefull for electronics cavity covers too. Otherwise, I would say to chisel the corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Thought about one of those postal...curious what the OD is on that set.Seems I'd still have to oversize the template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I'm skeptical with harbor freight tools. Recieved some real junk from them in the past. +1. Bought $150 simple compressor from them recently, it broke down faster then it took to take it out of the box. Was not happy about that. Then again.,.....buying cheap tools that's risk you run. Is StewMac only source for this 3/8" bit, cause I use it a lot for tight radius corners.......but no one else seems to carry it. Strangely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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