wwwdotcomdotnet Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I've been slowly working on this. Its my second build. wood CAD drawing, but the padauk will be on top, and the ph on bottom neck laminate rosewood cocobolo fingerboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inisheer Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I can't say I really like the shape...but if you do then that's all that matters. Good luck with the build. And that's some nice looking wood, mind telling where you got it from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carousel182 Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 thats some amazing wood and i love the shape cant wait to watch this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted April 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I can't say I really like the shape...but if you do then that's all that matters. Good luck with the build. And that's some nice looking wood, mind telling where you got it from? from curtis lumber in new york Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) got the truss rod cavity routed, the neck taper cut, and the fingerboard tapered heres the side view of where the veneers i made in the headstock joint are. i cant wait to see them after i take a spokeshave to it. also in the picture is one of my socks. Edited May 3, 2007 by wwwdotcomdotnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hey i go to curtis to get my wood. Great place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hey i go to curtis to get my wood. Great place. that place is like heaven! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyunsu Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 i am some worry purpleheart is dance wood. so woking is not easy.. and purpleheart's stablish is no good.. when i made guitar body.. purplehear top and spuruce back.. but body is curved.... i am suprised.. this guitar is when making is end.. body is not curved.. but when after work is end.. body is too many curved... Purpleheart is very beautifull color.. good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 i am some worry purpleheart is dance wood. so woking is not easy.. and purpleheart's stablish is no good.. when i made guitar body.. purplehear top and spuruce back.. but body is curved.... i am suprised.. this guitar is when making is end.. body is not curved.. but when after work is end.. body is too many curved... Purpleheart is very beautifull color.. good luck... hopefully i will have better luck, i am crossing my fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Maybe the wood wasn't dry when you starting building with it H? That'll warp a body. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted May 5, 2007 Report Share Posted May 5, 2007 Probably more a case of the purpleheart being much denser than the spruce, so it will expand and contract more. If the two woods were not the same moisture content, then when they equalise, the body will act like a bimetal strip, like they use in thermostats. I have had this happen, it is indeed a bummer. I've been to Curtis, too! A long time back when I used to live up there. I had to get some teak to replace some trim on a boat. Only place that had any. I'm so glad I didn't have a credit card then. That neck is going to be gorgeous!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2007 Probably more a case of the purpleheart being much denser than the spruce, so it will expand and contract more. If the two woods were not the same moisture content, then when they equalise, the body will act like a bimetal strip, like they use in thermostats. I have had this happen, it is indeed a bummer. I've been to Curtis, too! A long time back when I used to live up there. I had to get some teak to replace some trim on a boat. Only place that had any. I'm so glad I didn't have a credit card then. That neck is going to be gorgeous!! tell me about it, teak is soooo pricy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 i got the control cavity templates cut on the laser cutter today, and also cut the neck height down a bit for the TOM bridge, jointed the body sides each about 1/8", routed a cavity in the side of the neck for the pickup wires, drilled into the lower wing an inch or so to connect the control cavity to the pickups/neck route, and glued the body wings. busy day! pics will follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 has anyone tried teak for guitar building? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msherman Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 has anyone tried teak for guitar building? You betcha! I made two 6 string basses out of flamed teak one fretted, and one fretless, and they were amazing sounding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorterthanrich Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Jason, post a damn picture of your progress. I want to show people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 what kind of neck/headstock joint is that? that's not scarf is it? it seems like a block of wood just angled and glued? if so, is that stable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 I'd say it's a scarf joint where the angled veneer lines are, so the join will be hidden under the fretboard, and make some amazing shapes on the back of the neck when it's shaped. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Yeah, looks like a scarf with a couple veneers glued in for a cool look. I am trying to find some pressure dyed veneers round my area and haven't had any luck yet, got a few more places to check though. On my scarf and in between my top and body I would like to add, just a single black laminate. I've seen a few of those and think they look wicked. Anyhow, I bet that neck is going to look very cool when it's done. I hope everything works out well for you and get us some progress pics when you can!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 yeah, it is a scarf joint with some semi-thick lams between that i cut out of some spare wood. i'll get some pictures up within a few days. i've made loads of progress since my last update but have been too lazy to post pictures. id say by friday or so i'll have some pics of this guitar and the other one ive been working on, along with the workbench i built Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) i've neglected updating for a while, mostly because im busy, but i've gotten plenty done in the past few weeks. pickup cavities body close up fingerboard inlayed and radiused back neck shaped 1 neck shaped 2 Lastly, I need some help with this one: I ordered a fingerboard from LMI, slotted but unradiused. I put in my own dot inlays, however when sanding the radius with my 12" Stew Mac block I noticed that the fret slots were a bit shallow on my fingerboard. You can see that there is nearly nothing left for depth on the sides, however in the middle of the board there is enough depth to put the fret in. What would the best way be to deepen the fret slots without having to worry about it being too shallow that I'd have to put the frets out if that were the case as I were fretting? HELP! Pic below: fingerboard side view, fret slots too shallow Edited May 31, 2007 by wwwdotcomdotnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 This is why I slot and radius my own boards, best of luck to you finding how to deepen the slots without harming anything. The build looks deadly though, you're doing complete justice to these choice woods! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 This is why I slot and radius my own boards, best of luck to you finding how to deepen the slots without harming anything. The build looks deadly though, you're doing complete justice to these choice woods! Jon, my next guitar after these two will have boards that I slot. It doesnt seem difficult at all. Thanks for the compliments, I really like the design, but the wood is really heavy! Its also a huge pain to work with the woods. Sanding and using a spokeshave is very tedious because of the woods' density. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Thanks for the compliments, I really like the design, but the wood is really heavy! Its also a huge pain to work with the woods. Sanding and using a spokeshave is very tedious because of the woods' density. I can imagine that it is heavy and tough to work with and that makes it even more impressive, I think. Like Hyunsu I had some problems with the p-heart when trying a one piece body semi hollow. It started warping and it just wouldn't go back no matter what I tried. That stuff is so wicked on your tools too. Your work looks great though, can't wait to see it all finished, good luck. I'm sure someone will have a good idea on the fret slots. I have some thoughts, but am tentative on suggesting anything as there is much better advice out there, good luck though, keep the pics comin. PS: I was just curious on how you sanded that thing, did you use that treadmill right there. I honestly think thats about the power needed to sand a smooth edge in p-heart and padauk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shorterthanrich Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 I ordered a fingerboard from LMI, slotted but unradiused. I put in my own dot inlays, however when sanding the radius with my 12" Stew Mac block I noticed that the fret slots were a bit shallow on my fingerboard. You can see that there is nearly nothing left for depth on the sides, however in the middle of the board there is enough depth to put the fret in. What would the best way be to deepen the fret slots without having to worry about it being too shallow that I'd have to put the frets out if that were the case as I were fretting? HELP! Pic below: fingerboard side view, fret slots too shallow This is a problem I will be running into shortly too. In order to thin down the fingerboard, I'm going to sand it with a flat block on the back a little before radiusing. But when I radius it I'll have the same issue with the slotting. Dude, I need to get a spokeshave asap. Actually I really just need to get the truss rod in and get on the inlay work.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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