Threaded Inserts

[guitar101]

Has anyone used these or something similar for joining a bolt on nect to a body? I want to use them in a Strat I am putting together for my son.

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html

[Jon]

I think Alan of ACG uses those, not positive. I do plan on switching to something similar because all the screws I come across are complete crap.

[guitar101]

I think Alan of ACG uses those, not positive. I do plan on switching to something similar because all the screws I come across are complete crap.

I like the fact that I can take the neck off and not worry about the threads loosening up. I a little concerned about the length of the inserts wondering if they will pull out.

[CrazyManAndy]

How do these things work? For some reason I just can't wrap my head around it. Of course, having little woodworking experience probably has something to do with it.

CMA

[IbanezFreak666]

you screw in the metal ring, it has a large self tap screw on the outside, so it screws into the wood, and on the inside it has a ready tapped thread, made for metal screw, and it saves wearing wood where screws are taken in and out alot.

[CrazyManAndy]

So is the screw hole countersunk to make a place for the insert?

CMA

[fookgub]

I've used those a couple times, both for bass and guitar. My RG has 'em. The 10-24 size seems to work well, since the screws are small enough to work with most neck plates and ferrules. They can be a pain to install though. I've had trouble finding the right size drill bit, so I drill them slightly oversize, then epoxy the inserts in. I doubt I'll be using them again though... I don't like the fact that they can't be dowelled and redrilled if you want to swap the neck onto another guitar.

[Batfink]

I use Ezlok's 4-40's to surface mount pickups but i've never considered them to actually attach a neck to a body. Is there any reason why traditional screw's won't work for your application ?

Jem

[Setch]

Um,, they certainly can be dowelled and re-drilled, you just need a larger dowel.

[erikbojerik]

I've used 'em.

With those, the difficult part is inserting them straight after you drill. But you can sacrifice a partially-threaded screw and use a drill press (turning by hand) to get them to go in straight.

[SwedishLuthier]

I have always used threaded insert. I have had several guitars in my shop with stripped out wood (standard wood screws) from someone over tightening the screws. The standard solution is to drill out and put a dowel in there. From time to time I have managed to persuade the customer to let me install steel inserts. No one has been disappointed and no one has come back with stripped steel inserts.

I install them the same way as Eric. I have a cutoff bolt installed in the drill press with two nuts and the insert screwed on. The two nuts are good to have there. If not the screwing motion will tighten the insert against the end of the threaded portion of the bolt and it will be a PITA to get the bolt out of there with a guitar neck still attached to the bolt. You can picture it. Beats the everyday sitcom for sure. Anyway, I just lay the neck flat, stabilizing it with a wooden clamp or two, lower the chuck and turn it by hand. Be careful to test it on scrap because you can easily split the wood.

[ihocky2]

I am planning on using those on my builds from now on. While the standard wood screw does a nice job holding the neck tight, these allow you to add more torque and get the neck tighter against the body for sound wave transfer. I will definitely use the threaded inserts for the neck, but I am thinking about using the press in inserts for plastic to surface mount pickups. That way you don't have to drill as large of a hole for the insert, and it's not like the pickup is getting yanked on to pull out the insert.

[guitar101]

I use Ezlok's 4-40's to surface mount pickups but i've never considered them to actually attach a neck to a body. Is there any reason why traditional screw's won't work for your application ?

Jem

No they will work and I may use them, but I want to try something different. I like the fact that you can remove the neck and not worry about the screws loosening up eventually.

[fookgub]

Um,, they certainly can be dowelled and re-drilled, you just need a larger dowel.

Out of curiosity, what size inserts and drill bits are you using? I couldn't get the size right with 1/16" bits for the 10-24 inserts. One size was so small that the insert was impossible to drive, whereas the next size up was obviously too loose. I've ended up epoxying all the inserts I've installed, which is why I said they can't be dowelled and re-drilled. I suppose one could still remove the insert with heat, but it would take some dedication.

Anyway, everyone has their own methods, and I'm not trying to challenge that. Myself, I haven't noticed any difference with the inserts, and I don't take necks off often enough to make them worthwhile... I'm going back to wood screws.

[ihocky2]

The place you would really notice the difference with the inserts vs wood screws is on guitars that have body end truss rod adjustments. Depending where you live, you may have to adjust the relief a few times a year and have to take the neck off 2 or 3 times to get it set right.

[Lotza_Noize]

Sounds a little like my Post. Hmmm I think I'm going to use inserts on my project JEM.

[guitar101]

Um,, they certainly can be dowelled and re-drilled, you just need a larger dowel.

Out of curiosity, what size inserts and drill bits are you using? I couldn't get the size right with 1/16" bits for the 10-24 inserts. One size was so small that the insert was impossible to drive, whereas the next size up was obviously too loose. I've ended up epoxying all the inserts I've installed, which is why I said they can't be dowelled and re-drilled. I suppose one could still remove the insert with heat, but it would take some dedication.

Anyway, everyone has their own methods, and I'm not trying to challenge that. Myself, I haven't noticed any difference with the inserts, and I don't take necks off often enough to make them worthwhile... I'm going back to wood screws.

I am curious about the size also and what brand you are using.

[fookgub]

Um,, they certainly can be dowelled and re-drilled, you just need a larger dowel.

Out of curiosity, what size inserts and drill bits are you using? I couldn't get the size right with 1/16" bits for the 10-24 inserts. One size was so small that the insert was impossible to drive, whereas the next size up was obviously too loose. I've ended up epoxying all the inserts I've installed, which is why I said they can't be dowelled and re-drilled. I suppose one could still remove the insert with heat, but it would take some dedication.

Anyway, everyone has their own methods, and I'm not trying to challenge that. Myself, I haven't noticed any difference with the inserts, and I don't take necks off often enough to make them worthwhile... I'm going back to wood screws.

I am curious about the size also and what brand you are using.

Not sure if this is directed at me, but I've used the EZ-LOK brass inserts in 10-24, same as pictured in your link. I tried 3/8", 13/32", and 7/16" drill bits. It's been a while, but if memory serves, the insert was basically impossible to drive into the 13/32" hole, but felt a little too loose in the 7/16" hole. I used the drill press for driving the inserts, same as others have mentioned. Also, I can attest to the fact that the bolt can be very difficult to remove from the insert when you're done driving it if you don't use a spacer nut.

That's just me, though... other people seem to have better luck with the inserts.

Edited June 15, 2007 by fookgub

[guitar101]

Not sure if this is directed at me, but I've used the EZ-LOK brass inserts in 10-24, same as pictured in your link. I tried 3/8", 13/32", and 7/16" drill bits. It's been a while, but if memory serves, the insert was basically impossible to drive into the 13/32" hole, but felt a little too loose in the 7/16" hole. I used the drill press for driving the inserts, same as others have mentioned. Also, I can attest to the fact that the bolt can be very difficult to remove from the insert when you're done driving it if you don't use a spacer nut.

That's just me, though... other people seem to have better luck with the inserts.

Thanks for the info. Maybe there is a metric size drill that will be closer.