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Build #3, Baritone Singlecut


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From what I've read/researched when trying to figure where to put the strap buttons on my Explorer and Rhoads, the general consensus is that you want the rear strap button to be much lower than the button on the horn. So for a V this means putting the button as near the crux of the V as is comfortable. Since the lower seems to be better, I'm not sure what a higher strap button will do. I feel that two buttons would definitely help "glue" the guitar to your body, but definitely not just a higher button.

Looks really snazzy, Pukko :D

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>>TemjinStrife

Yeah, that's another good thing! What guitar have you used that has such buttons?

>>Xanthus

I think the main reason for putting the strap button near the crux of the V (and somewhere around the centre line on an Explorer) is that those bodies have pretty long bodies. If you put the lower button out on the tip of the V or the Explorer the strap wouldn't really hug your body, it would just balance on your shoulder. That's not such a big problem on a "traditionally" shaped guitar though. I think that by putting two buttons on and using the highest one, the guitar will hang with the head pointing a little more upwards (or really the lower bout of the body a little more downwards) making it hang less horizontally. I'll have to think about it when I'm test playing it...

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I have a Spirit "broom handle" with a strap button on the heel and two on the back, one on each of the protrusions on each side of the R-Trem. The dual buttons balancing when leaned against stuff is more important on that guitar since it doesn't fit on standard wall hangers (due to the total lack of headstock)... but it's nice to have the option to re-angle it.

The guitar does tend to lean "outwards" a bit more when using the lower button... but again this is probably due to the general lack of a lower bout to hold it in place.

My friend also has a Godin singlecut that he stuck dual strap buttons on... on that guitar changing the strap location changes the perceived weight distribution. The higher button pulls the guitar up and towards you, but allows it to swing more freely. The lower one locks it in a bit more (especially if the strap cuts across the upper bout) but it 'feels' more neck heavy.

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So now it has strings on it... I just test fitted them, the nut is way too high and I didn't set the guitar up at all. I just wanted to try the neck profile and hear the acoustic sound. The neck needs a little shaving, it feels a little to big for me right now. Sounds pretty loud acoustically, long sustain and more dynamics than my PRS Custom (not that strange maybe considering the hollowness). I'm not sure I'll need the double strap button arrangement, it seems pretty well balanced.

Amazing how it looks a lot more like a guitar just by putting the strings on...

DSC04709-1.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04705-1.jpg

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I made a pickguard out of tortoise pickguard material and white binding. I'm definitely not going to screw it onto the guitar, but some doublesided tape might work if I want to put it on.

With or without? Which looks best?

DSC04729-1.jpgDSC04727-1.jpg

>>Daniel Sorbera, eddiewarlock, piedpiperX2000

Thanks a lot!!!

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i'm not sure about the pickup rings either... i was really excited to see this done but i reckon it looked better before the pickups appeared... i reckon they might need toning tone slightly, either making smaller/shallower or darker - although i like that you kept the shape from when you made the metal ones

i like the scratchplate

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I second Wez and Andy; I feel that the rings would look better stained.

I like the COLOR of the pickguard, but not the pickguard itself. The top is too pretty to be covered up. If the pickup rings were stained the color of the pickguard, we'd definitely be in business :D

Or, what color are the knobs going to be, dark brown right? Why not a dark brown for the pickup covers?

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Pickguard gets my vote. There's plenty of exposed wood that you don't have to worry about hiding it. The pickguard lends it a very special character, IMO.

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I'm with WAK here, definitely on the pickguard! Which is funny because I also despise them. And I also like the pup rings as is. Either way, just an extraordinary instrument! Well done. J

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>>Bygde

Man tackar, man tackar!

>>CrazyManAndy

Thanks! What is it about the rings that you're not sure about? Size, height, shape?

>>WezV

The size of the rings is necessary to cover up the broken-router-eating-into-the-top damage. I just enlarged the shape of the metal rings I made before, and I didn't want to change the proportions of them so that they would look too square. I could thin them down a bit I guess, but not too much since the beveling of the rings start a couple of millimetres up. I can't sand them down all the way into the beveling, that would make the rings smaller and maybe make the damage visible... Can't really make them darker either without sanding them down since they are clearcoated. I have no spraying equipment, just rattle cans. I don't really want them darker either, I was going for a Les Paul "cream rings on a sunburst top" look.

>>Xanthus

See above for the pickup rings answer. I don't know what knobs I'm going to use yet. The ones I made seem to make the top look a little busy, with maple rings and switch knob. I got some chrome Telecaster type barrel knobs that I might use, and i also have two ebony barrel knobs (the Stewmac type). Not really feeling like ordering just one extra knob from Stewmac though... The big problem is that I'm using a concentric pot for one of the controls and there aren't too many variations to choose from.

>>GregP, WAK Guitars, jmrentis

Thanks!

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got around to finishing the neck... Sanded up to 1200 grit paper and finished off with a 4000 grit sanding sponge called Abralon. After that some ordinary mineral oil, and this is the result:

DSC04864.jpg

A pic to show the color difference before/after oil:

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04860.jpg

Some more pics:

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04863.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSC04865-1.jpg

It feels really good, extremely smooth surface but still kind of "alive" when you can feel the pores.

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>>Bygde

Thanks/tackar!

>>eddiewarlock

Thanks! Nah, the weather is ok, though around midsommar we had some rain as you say. Everything that's left to do on the guitar can be done indoors, so that's no excuse for me either... There's only the boring stuff left, shielding and soldering the electronics. After that it's time to plug in...

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All done! Had a little photo session with my new camera (suddenly it's kind of fun taking pictures...) at my grandparents summer house where I did most of the work on the guitar. Thought it might be a good ending to the build process...

DSCF0369c.jpg

Another full front: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0428.jpg

Full front without pickguard: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0133.jpg

Back full view: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0130.jpg

Back full view (different view): http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0175.jpg

Back of body: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0442.jpg

Headstock front: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0178.jpg

Headstock back: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0177.jpg

Inlay at 12th fret: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0166.jpg

Wenge jackplate: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0455.jpg

Maple switch knob: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0164.jpg

Maple pickup ring: http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z35/pukko3/DSCF0451.jpg

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