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Neck Through Strat Build


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Recently i started another build. it is a neck through strat with book matched curly maple top. the hardware is all black some of it is from guitarfetish from another project and some is stuff from stewmac, all of it is black. the top will be finished translucent blue. it is going to be a carved top. it has a 5 peace maple mahogany maple mahogany maple neck, and the wings of the body are mahogany. this is how far i am now

s079.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/st...17/IMG_2465.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/st...17/IMG_2460.jpg

tomorrow i plan on doing the carve making the fretboard (if my wood comes), and finishing the headstock. after that the only thing left to do is shape the neck, cant wait to finish this one

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looks nice so far!

tomorrow i plan on doing the carve making the fretboard (if my wood comes

if the wood does turn up do your self a favour and give it at least a few weeks to aclimatise before using it

+1!!

Even if you found the wood at a woodshop in your city a couple weeks to acclimate would be best. Since its being shipped to you, this is even more important. I know around the time Jon was sending the beautiful flatsawn bubinga fretboards to me he was having lots of rain and humidity and where I am it had been much dryer no rain in many months. I only just cut the basic taper yesterday and I probably got the boards around the 1st of this month or something. I was going to wait longer because they are flatwsawn, but I had a little bit of time to get some work in and I couldn't pass it up and over 3 weeks for a fretboard should be fine and so far everything looks great. Just amazing looking fretboards btw.

Anyhow, do yourself a favor and wait a couple weeks, save yourself numerous headaches that can occur with not letting wood acclimate to your local weather. J

PS: I like the figure on that maple. I'm a big fan of flamed/curly maple, but sometimes I find the figure too perfect and slightly different pieces look cool to me, like yours. Keep the progress pics coming and keep up the great work.

Edited by jmrentis
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IMG_2502.jpg'

got the knob cavities(i have no idea what to call them)done also i did the body carve and rounded the edges on the back

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/st...17/IMG_2509.jpg

thats really not a good picture of the knob cavities at all they really are carved and look much better than that i just have poor lighting to take pics

Edited by carousel182
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that a hell of a lot of sanding!!

plane or saw the fretboard to around 1/4" and if that makes your bridge far to high you can make a template the same size as the bridge and lower the bridge into the body.

If you go with a 5/8" thick fretboard wont your neck be far too thick - or am i missing some way you have allowed for this?

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that a hell of a lot of sanding!!

plane or saw the fretboard to around 1/4" and if that makes your bridge far to high you can make a template the same size as the bridge and lower the bridge into the body.

If you go with a 5/8" thick fretboard wont your neck be far too thick - or am i missing some way you have allowed for this?

+1

When I started thinking of 5/8 for a fretboard, something funny occurred to me, you could actually embed the entire truss rod into the fretboard and have a thin back, lol. Obviously, thats not advice or an idea, but just something funny that occurred to me.

I think Wez's idea is a good one, a recessed bridge is much better than a really thick fretboard and neck. I believe if you have the truss rod routed normally, you probably won't be able to have a normal sized neck and by recessing the bridge you could drop down to a normal fretboard and normal sized neck. It shouldn't be tough at all to do, worth a shot if, I think.

Edited by jmrentis
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