Jump to content

Finishing A Guitar With Automotive Paint


Recommended Posts

im currently building a king V shaped guitar and was wondering if it were at all possible to paint the guitar using primer, automotive paint, then laquer?

this may seem like a stupid question but i've searched on this forum and could not find much advise so i just thought i would ask becuase i was thinking of using the left over paint my father was using on his mustang. . Its a black with metal flakes in it to make it look all shiny and pretty :D

any advise would be greatly appreciated. feel free to critizes my idea as well becuase i am a total noob to doing finishes and realy wish to learn different ideas and techniques.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day Fridge ... both of my builds so far have used auto paint ... take a look at my recently completed Heartocaster build in this section (link below). It's auto-primer, paint and then clear coat. My first build, the Batocaster, was the same but with a very fine metal flake.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=37690

I've found that painting / finishing is probably one of the hardest areas to get definitive answers on. There's a wealth of great information on this forum if you search ... but you'll also find some confusing and contradictory information, some of which probably stems from personal preferences and some of it from the part of the world that you're in and the quality of products that are available.

I decided to use auto paint in spray cans 'cos it's easy to get and to 'understand'. I was happy with the finish on my first build, I'm rapt in the finish on my second build, and I know I can do better still :D .

My eventual intention though is to buy a spray set-up (it's Fathers Day soon in Australia so I'm dropping big hints) and try some other painting media ... I really want to give nitro cellulose lacquer a go.

My advice ... go for it with the auto paint ... but take your time with the preparation. An excellent finish requires an excellent preparation ... I learnt that from experience!! :D

You'll also get valuable advice from forum members about ideal spraying conditions ... temperature, humidity, etc ... but I'll leave that for people who know more than me B) .

Good luck ... and post some pictures!!!!

B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanx for the advise DaDovfor i will definity give it a try. heres a picture of the guitar so far: keep in mind this is ust an experiment with a realy old cuttingboard(yes cuttingboard!!) that i got for free lol.:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm28/Fr...um/DSCN1520.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm28/Fr...um/100_1986.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only encourage you to test the whole thing on scrap first. I recently had a body all painted up and smoothed out perfect. Then I put some lacquer on it. The lacquer ate the paint like it was stripper. The whole thing had to be stripped down and started from scratch with poly on it. Granted, I was using Krylon, not car paint, but the point is that you won't realy know how the clear will react to the paint until it's too late.

DO IT ON SCRAP FIRST!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just be aware that automotive paints take years to completely cure. They bleed off chemicals for a long time. (info from guy at the bodyshop)

Not true for all paints, my dads shop which is using water based technology one of the VERY few shops in north america (other than the big name car manufacturers) Theirs takes 90 days to completely cure if I'm not mistaken. Both of my builds that were painted were painted with automotive paints, and the finish is immaculate, no problems what so ever. You will need far less coats of clear coat as well as opposed to lacquer, etc. You will have orange peel, but if you wet sand with 1500 after the first clear, then lay down your second coat, it will be far less if not completely gone. If it is still there wait 2 weeks and wet sand again if you want it completely gone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hhmmmm very interesting. well this morning i finaly got around to finishing the routing of the tremolo bridge placement and pickup placement and aside from lots of sanding left to do its basicly ready for finishing.mind you i have to spend the next million years sanding for a good finish lol my dad came up with a cool idea though for a finish. he said he onse seen a car with black paint that had small dark red metalic flakes in it and he though it would make a kewl finish and so do i. and being a V made for metal and more agressive music it seems to suit it nicly. picks will be up when first coat or 2 are completed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine is sitting in a friends body shop right now waiting for him to get a little time to shoot it he does a few guitars a year along with a host of other odd things.

just be sure that if you plan on using a laquer top coat that u use a laquer base or somthing that will be compatible with the top thats the most important thing just read the lables and you will be fine.

btw i was told 6 months average cure time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...