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Hmmm. Now, black Corian nut or white Corian nut? Since i'm using black hardware I might stick with black.

I'm looking at corian for nuts at he moment, if you go on ebay and look at "pen blanks" there are some sellers that sell 12mm x 120mm corian blanks, should make good nuts me thinks

I bought a bunch of black Corian scrap which is enough to do more nuts than i'll build guitars for, plus I have some white sample pieces which equally I could chop up. :-D

Most Corian outlets can put you up some samples for free if you ask nicely (indirectly...pretend to have a kitchen).

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DGW - whether you genuinely mean well or you are deliberately being derisory, arrogant and snobbish, you're just not coming across as very constructive. I would recommend posting references to this "newsletter" rather than quoting it offhand.

DGW(Dino Guitar Works) is a long time poster with a history of abusing the good nature of this forum...under other names...so

I wouldn't consider it an abuse of moderation removing any of your subsequent posts.

I second this motion...Feel free...it is no abuse at all.

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http://www.amazon.com/EcoCulinary-Reclaime...5126&sr=8-1

Prostheta...I bought a rectangular cutting board similar to this...it is thick enough for nuts...think how many you could make.I bought mine for thatpurpose but I like it so much I kept it.

Oh..here you go..pick a color.

http://www.corianboards.com/items_list.cfm

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That reminds me, I gotta boil some more bones! :D I been making nuts 'n acoustic saddles like they been goin out of style and running out of bone stock! So what kind of animal does corian come from anyway? the same one that supplied the covers to all those nauga-hide couches? :D I'll look for some locally.

And fwiw all my paint jobs, with the exception of my current build have been done with rattlecan paints. Namely, Minwax high gloss poly, Plasti-kote "superlacquer" (primer, black and clear) and that other one I buy at Cdn. Tire...oh yeah, Duplicolor (gunmetal grey, black, clear) . I've also tried some low cost acrylic lacquers I bought at Zellers, I sure learned about compatibility issues between brands. But there were successes. One that stood out was a blue metalflake that I used on my custom SG. Smaller can, sorry forgot the name.

I took my current build to work for clearcoating. A small bottle of Grand Marnier got me a real professional HI-GLOSS poly coating, 2-part Imron, the hardest, most durable stuff you can find. I'm not even gonna bother wetsanding, I don't think I could ever bring that kind of natural shine back. "Farming it out" this time was not a matter of choice as I moved from a house to an apartment a few months ago.

Edited by Southpa
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There is no question that the 2 parters like Imron are superior for guitar finishes...but a rattlecan job does not degrade a project either in my book...at least not a project like this which is admittedly just an effort to upgrade Prostheta's Karmic Balance by bringing to life an otherwise junk piece of wood.

I say kudos...I still love it...and I still hope I get two previous projects to come out as nice...though I will be using the same 2 part conversion varnish I will be using on everything...cause I buy it by the gallon...about $100 makes a hard as nails awesome finish on about 10 to 15 guitars...depending on how thick I go...

Gotta say I do love that stuff...15 minutes and it is ready to level sand...24 hours and it is rock hard...actually it acts just like Nitro(the good nitro..multi part),except without the checking supposedly..feels and breathes like it too

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The previous white coat went on two days ago, so another couple of days should be good before a scuff and recoat. Smells neutral so I presume it's not gassing much anymore - Plasticote sends out some really big smells during coating which is a good indicator I guess!

I've checked the finish over and it's looking good. Even the area on the headstock and the neck transition is fine. Very very pleased. I'll probably mock up the wiring harness this weekend by embedding pot shafts etc. in polystyrene to hold them together. I'm sure something will conspire to occupy my time otherwise however.

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  • 6 months later...

I haven't updated this one in a while. I left the Plasticote to cure for weeks as it's still not the perfect stuff. I had to apply a couple more coats due to a couple of sandthroughs on the edges, but no big problems. I've ebonised the fingerboard with Fiebings Leather Dye, and i've popped on the hardware to see what the end product will look like :-D

Just need to do one very thin coat of white and feather the fingerboard edge before I clear it with 2K acrylic lacquer. Debating how to do the logo for the headstock. Really really looking forward to having her complete.....

exp9.jpg

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Wasn't the EET FUK Explorer an original Japanese ESP EXP-250, ie. more in line with the Gibson shape as opposed to the slightly modified ESP/EXP shape?

Oh yes, and the Fiebing's Leather Dye is what Stewmac are selling for ebonising fingerboards....if you pop onto evilBay and search for "Fiebings" then you should find it nice and affordable, plus you don't have to pay import and VAT :-D

Edited by Prostheta
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I think he means this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TANDY-LEATHERCRAFT-F...8QQcmdZViewItem

Stewmac sells Fiebings Oil Dye, not leather dye, no idea what the difference is though

Black_Fingerboard_Stain_Detail.jpg

This is what I bought although in black, not Ox Blood :-D

I'm not sure of the difference either, but it still works very nicely. I tested it on scrap from the 7-string's ebony board, and it looks awesomely flat and black. Very very very satin-ey. It does however, remove the board's natural "depth". I prefer ebony polished up to 12000 Micromesh grit for it's mirror look.

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If you can, I can't seem to get a decent balance between blackness and natural lustre. It seems similar to dyeing figured maple - you lose "movement" in the figure by adding dyes.

This is a cheap rosewood board, which is why i'm ebonising it. Plus it complements the inlays more, and I think the contrast of black, silver and white is better without the browns.

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