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Project Wenge V


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Tired and probably should stay in today... but fell the need to get this thing done. Still have no idea what it is going to look like when it is done. I cleaned up the shoulders and came up with something that looked good from the side and the front.

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Time to shape the neck. The soft grain in the wenge tears out very easily (like ash) and leaves a bumpy surface. I ended up only using Rasps and Files as any type of blade (scraper, spoke shave) tended to make a mess. I have been experimenting with the trapzoid shaped necks. Not Ola style but more rounded with a flat spot on the back. I make a trapezoid then soften it... not sure it helps yet.

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If anyone cares smoothing the neck out with a bastard file then a mill file worked really well on the wenge.

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Then a little DA action.

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Bridge posts drilled. Stuck the bridge on to make sure hte strings line up. I don't drive the anchors in until much later.

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Lets have a look and see how far to recess the bridge... looks like it will only be a little bit.

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So I was going to copy my Gibson V in measurements because I thought it was a 24.75" scale V. Turns out it is not it is a 24.625". Good thing I double checked before drilling the bridge. That would have made a mess.

All good now but once again this is why you plan everything out first.

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Man, I am not a fan of Vs, but I'm a huge fan of the job you've done on this one. The craftsmanship, the wood selection and creativity of this project is really, really nice.

SR

Thanks... everyone has to own one V.

I am not sure I would do a solid Wenge guitar again. I think it has its places but not as a solid guitar. I think it should stick to fretboards, accent lines, neck material or drop tops. This one is going to be heavy and it will probably be bright like a solid Zebrano guitar. I should have chambered it. It should have been made out of something cheaper and lighter since it is really an experiment. Oh well live and learn the Vs I make in the future will be set neck and closer to the Gibson plans, except the neck angle. I am keeping the shallower neck angle. Never been a fan of TOMs that are way off the top.

And of course as I say that I am not going to build a solid wenge guitar again I have to build a solid maple one this year for a customer... ha ha ha.

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Again ... enough for one day. I am never building another neck through unless someone pays me. (I said that the last time I built one.)

whats been your problem?

i find neck throughs really easy. as long as you dont forget to route a wiring channel in the side before gluing on the wings, fully consider bridge height and how you are going to deal with it and also consider how the neck pickup route will sit before carving all the heel away.

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Again ... enough for one day. I am never building another neck through unless someone pays me. (I said that the last time I built one.)

whats been your problem?

i find neck throughs really easy. as long as you dont forget to route a wiring channel in the side before gluing on the wings, fully consider bridge height and how you are going to deal with it and also consider how the neck pickup route will sit before carving all the heel away.

The usual... didn't plan for the wiring channels, keep banging it into stuff in the shop because I am not used to having a full size guitar so early in the build stages. I swore I would finish the neck before gluing the sides on... then I realized I needed the sides glued in to figure out a bunch of stuff. Come to think of it this is only my second full neck-through guitar (have done plenty of deep tenons). I didn't learn enough from the first one (again my fault) and ended up making a few of the same mistakes.

Things I got right.

Neck Angle

Heal carve

Things I got wrong

Not planning (It should have been chambered)

Wiring channels

Rushing the wings on (of course they had to go on when they did... but I should have routed for wiring channels)

I know better but since it was just a build and not for a customer I was just winging it. I can wing a Super Strat I have built plenty of them over the years.

On the next one I will have a proper plan... drawn in CAD before I start. I will plan all the wiring channels and depths of everything ahead of time.

Really it has nothing to do with the neck-through. Wez it is poor planning... sometimes you can't just wing it. :D

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Couple other things I learned on this one.

Using the spindle sander to avoid tear out when shaping the body..

Shaping the neck with rasps and files is a good idea on Wenge.

Wenge can be worked with hand tools easily.

Scrapers on riftsawn Wenge cause tear out of the soft grain (yes I already knew this from working ash but I am just listing it because it is important to remember)

Plan first.

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Then test fit. Ummmm... duh forgot about the radius of the template bit. Fits fine without a cover.

Used the dremel to sharpen the radius in the corners and it drops right in.

It's times like these that designing templates with offsets for guide bushes come in really handy! They free up the radius of the router bit being constrained by the bearing, plus allow you to use the full plunge capacity of the router taking a little wood at a time ;-)

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Then test fit. Ummmm... duh forgot about the radius of the template bit. Fits fine without a cover.

Used the dremel to sharpen the radius in the corners and it drops right in.

It's times like these that designing templates with offsets for guide bushes come in really handy! They free up the radius of the router bit being constrained by the bearing, plus allow you to use the full plunge capacity of the router taking a little wood at a time ;-)

Thank you for reminding me. So I have been thinking about offset guide bushings... I think that is the answer moving forward. Man now I gotta buy more tools... thanks Prostheta. :D

BTW

<rant>

It is your fault I am having a go at building this poisonous thing anyway... B) If I had never seen your wenge 8 string I wouldn't have started this mess. Your fault I spent 2 days in the garage sweating my arse off breathing through a particle mask.

</rant>

Ok I feel better now...(hope you got a chuckle out of that)

:D

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  • 1 month later...
I have been experimenting with the trapzoid shaped necks. Not Ola style but more rounded with a flat spot on the back. I make a trapezoid then soften it... not sure it helps yet.

It does. You just described my standard AEolian platform style neck profile :D .

Been shaping them like that for a few years. totaly flat on the back with beveled sides rounded off to a large radius. Not as dramatic a change from the norm as a full Trapazoid so most players arent thrown by it visually. Its very stable & fast as fook !! The extra bit of meat that gets left in the neck doesent hurt the tone either.

Guitar is looking realy good, :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
I do NOT envy you working with that much wenge lol.

Chris

Not the brightest idea I had this year. However I have solved the final sanding dust issue. I am going to wet sand the guitar starting with 320 running to 2000. I will start with mineral spirits then progress to a BLO recipe. No dust just poison slurry.

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That's looking incredible!

WHERE did you get a 16" radius bit? That looks awesome for putting a rough radius on fretboards!

Thanks!

A member of the forum (SJE-Guitars.. thanks again man!) had them made up at a local machine shop. When he moved I bought one of the last ones. Since I rarely do anything but 16" radii it made sense. It took forever to get here... Can't imagine life without it now. I am not a fan of gluing radiused fretboards to my neck blanks but I was able to sand out the radius in 10 minutes (instead of 30) starting with 120grit instead of 80. I also did 6 tele necks in 35 minutes right after the V. My arm was a little tired but nothing compared to how it used to be. I use a Stew Mac beam and some blocks.

Enjoy! I think this is the last crazy guitar I am building for a while. (However I do have a piece of buckeye that would make Drak drool).

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