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im makin a body, or i plan to. i know that 1 1/2 is the standard thickness, is it possible to make it thinner?

im going to use a TOM and a set neck (les-paul like, no deep set tennons or anything)

and how much wood of what size will i need to make the neck?

(assuming i do a scarf joint on the headstock to be able to use thinner wood)

please help, remember you were all newbies once too....

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westhemann Posted on Jan 6 2004, 09:46 PM

  1 7/8" is standard thickness......1 1/2" is too thin,

Hmmmm, Wes, my Southern Pearl is 1-1/2" and she sounds fatter than a standard P with all the sustain you could want.

pearl5.jpg

I'm also making a 1-1/2" Strat (remember the trem prob's thread B) )

Am I doing something wrong? I'm actually being serious and not sarcastic (which is hard for me to do most of the time :D )

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1 7/8" is what the manufacturers do and it works well with th whole floyd routing thing...you have to have enough wood to rout the front and back and still have wood in the middle.

you can thin it up if you have a fixed bridge because then the back is not routed in the same space as the bridge pickup,but you still have to be careful to leave enough wood in the bottom of the neck pocket to support the neck rigidly.

you can get around that if you do a neck through but really all you are doing is taking away the wood that gives the guitar it's full tone imo

1 3/4" is plenty thin especially if you have the belly cut and an armrest,or a v or an explorer where your arm rests on the top of the body comfortably.

it just requires extra engineering and higher possibility of routing too deep and breaking through

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That makes sense and I was actually worried about losing tone on the pearl. Prob is that mahogany is so dang heavy at 1-3/4 it darn near pulled you to the floor. Now it's down to probably 7 lbs (just the body!) and still quite heavy. The grovers help balance it out but that's because they weigh a good 2 pounds themselves!

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1 7/8" is standard thickness......1 1/2" is too thin,but with a t.o.m. you can make it work.....but 1 3/4" is the thinnest iwould personally go

really... oops lol now i feel stupid... i swear i heard that repeadedly....

thanks wes and bluespressence.

what about the neck? my guitar (i didn't build it) here looks like the neck is like 1 3/8'' with a 1 3/4" body.... plus fretboard- is that right for me?

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im makin mine like 1 3/8 roughly inch of mahogany and 3/8 of maple top i dont see why it has to be so thick sg's are pretty thin i would think it would be thicker then the neck and joint but other then that the thickness shouldnt really matter if ur using a t.o.m.

just my thoughts

MzI

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My mahogony is 26mm thick and my maple top is about 10mm. It's a Les Paul and I didn't want it too heavy (hollowed out the body a bit too).

I think thats a bit less than 1 1/2 of whatever those old drakonian units are :D .

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he's refering to a TOM bridge and 1 1/2" thickness the first thing that comes to mind is an SG cause they are (or at least i've seen quite a few that are) 1 1/2" with your standard gibson TOM and 2-4 degree neck angle.... but they're usualy neck heavy, other then that about a couple of basses i've seen that were also 1 1/2" the standard, like wes said, is 1 3/4" - 1 7/8"

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this is kind of a random thought, but wouldn't the longer the block on a floyd best best? gives the springs more leverage, and the longer the block is the more accuarately the same springs can go back to the same position, does that make sense to anyone else... kinda how you use a long stick like a crow bar to move something.... it's the hole concept of levarage..

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krazyderek Posted on Jan 7 2004, 03:26 PM

  this is kind of a random thought, but wouldn't the longer the block on a floyd best best? gives the springs more leverage, and the longer the block is the more accuarately the same springs can go back to the same position, does that make sense to anyone else... kinda how you use a long stick like a crow bar to move something.... it's the hole concept of levarage.. 

yea, makes sense to me!

i think the 1/4" you take of the sustain block wont make too much of a difference tho!

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also on the bass sounding fatter when thinner. its because the wood will vibrate more easily with less wood mass to oppose it, so it will be bassier, but bass definition can be lost, this is what happens on a guitar, the bass can get muddy. it depends on the density of the wood.

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lol true, this was probably already calculated when floyd's or the first fender Trem's where introduced and was probably on of the determining factors of fender's standard electric body thickness... just cool to kinda think about stuff like that sometime.....

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krazyderek Posted on Jan 7 2004, 03:36 PM

  lol true, this was probably already calculated when floyd's or the first fender Trem's where introduced and was probably on of the determining factors of fender's standard electric body thickness... just cool to kinda think about stuff like that sometime..... 

im sure they had it sussed out. remember tho that the orig trems werent floating, i think (correct if im wrong) so it was less critical.

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this is kind of a random thought, but wouldn't the longer the block on a floyd best best? gives the springs more leverage, and the longer the block is the more accuarately the same springs can go back to the same position, does that make sense to anyone else... kinda how you use a long stick like a crow bar to move something.... it's the hole concept of levarage..

According to the laws of physics, you would need more spring tension for a shorter block. To be more precise, if you decrease the distance between the trem's fulcrum (at the knife edge) and the end of the block by 10% then you will need 10% more spring tension, but there would also be around 10% less travel at the block's end so there would be less change in spring length as it is stretched. I can't see why that would negatively affect precision though. Shortening the block might have a slight effect on sustain though since it will have less mass.

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