sam_c Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 a ridiculous suggestion, but maybe it would look cool if you neaten up the gouge marks and replicate them on the lower horn slightly off-set? then possibly make 2 long thin sound holes in the same shape, instead of the traditional F hole designs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Sam, if I were to go the route of making the gouges a feature, then replicating them only larger in the single f-hole position would be the way I'd go. I don't think I'd go so far as to add them to the lower horn though. Here are a couple of simpler smaller options along with better sized traditional F. (I don't have a clue as to why photobucket chooses to occasionally rotate my pics though). The last was just this guy getting a look at what he wants to be when he's all grown up. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 SR This one works well. Something simple. Or else leave it with no holes at all. But then thats just my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Here is another suggestion I got this morning. http://guitarbage.tumblr.com/post/22351936570/forgingsteel SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Here is another suggestion I got this morning. http://guitarbage.tumblr.com/post/22351936570/forgingsteel SR No looks like something the Monkeys would play after there TV series got canceled... Trust your instinct. Modern but with a nod to the past please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I sure am finding lots of new ways to use my drill press. I put a cove bit in it for the control knob carves,and you gotta love brad point bits. Rough Carved. Rough sanded. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 It took a hell of a lot longer than I expected to get to this rough sanded stage. I actually went into the weekend thinking I'd get some carving done on the back. Now I'm not sure I'll get to that point next weekend. Part of that is because of this wicked tear-out in the coves. That is going to take some time to fix....if it can be. I'm not paying much attention to the edges on the back yet as it will get quite a bit of contouring first. I will have to be careful with the edges of the hole in the top while I finish sand it. Have to make sure the curves flow correctly. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Nice. Good choice with the f hole design! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks Matt. Good to see you back. I saw your bass, but what I want to see it that mini you were building. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks Matt. Good to see you back. I saw your bass, but what I want to see it that mini you were building. SR No progress since the last update, I'm afraid. We moved a few months ago. I now have a larger shop space, of course I also have a ton of crap filling it up right now, until we get completely settled in... Don't know how much work I'll get done on it this summer either, as I plan on building some built-in cabinets/shelves in my new library/ofice. I am determined to get it finished by the time the little one is old enough to start playing it. She's a little over 2 now, so I think I've got a few more years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Bad luck on the tear out for the volume carves... I wish I had advice for the fix. I would say next time slow your plunge rate. Since you used the drill press I would hazard a guess that you pulled the handle like you were drilling. Whenever I try to use the drill press to mill something my general rule of thumb is to slow my feed rates. Did that F hole go through to the back? What an Fing interesting idea... never thought of that one. Remember those dish cutouts for the controls will have knobs in them so don't try too hard to fix them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 It took a hell of a lot longer than I expected to get to this rough sanded stage. I actually went into the weekend thinking I get same carving done on the back. Now I'm not sure I'll get to that point next weekend. Part of that is because of this wicked tear-out in the coves. That is going to take some time to fix....if it can be. I will have to be careful with the edges of the hole in the top while I finish sand it. Have to make sure the curves flow correctly. SR That guitar just looks phenomenal, the F hole is awesome, and I love the claw rakes, I hope you keep them. I have mended little chips like that in furniture by cutting small pieces of wood and glueing them in with PVA, I put some pressure on for about 5 mins and they stay there. Then sand when dry. I check to see how much darker the pieces go first. If they go too dark I have used decoupage varnish instead to smooth everything out. No one is going to see it any way, it's under the knobs and that geetar is gonna be killer. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Bad luck on the tear out for the volume carves... I wish I had advice for the fix. I would say next time slow your plunge rate. Since you used the drill press I would hazard a guess that you pulled the handle like you were drilling. Whenever I try to use the drill press to mill something my general rule of thumb is to slow my feed rates. Did that F hole go through to the back? What an Fing interesting idea... never thought of that one. Remember those dish cutouts for the controls will have knobs in them so don't try too hard to fix them. I did use the drill press, and I went very slowly with a brand new bit, just fast enough to keep it from burning. RPMs were at 1500 which may have been too slow.....but mostly I think it is just that piece of wood. Even carving it I have to be very conscious of the direction of the cut to get a clean one. I think the demon moved out of the ebony and took up residence in the maple. I've been waiting for two months for someone to ask how the hell was I going to put an F-hole in a solid body guitar. I can't decide if everyone or no one saw that coming. Worse case on the chips is filling what is left of them and dying the dishes black and fade to red at the edges. They will have knobs in there anyway. SR SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 That guitar just looks phenomenal, the F hole is awesome, and I love the claw rakes, I hope you keep them. I have mended little chips like that in furniture by cutting small pieces of wood and glueing them in with PVA, I put some pressure on for about 5 mins and they stay there. Then sand when dry. I check to see how much darker the pieces go first. If they go too dark I have used decoupage varnish instead to smooth everything out. No one is going to see it any way, it's under the knobs and that geetar is gonna be killer. Thanks, Muzz. I'm not sure I love the claw rakes, but they surely are an indicator of this piece of wood's character. I have to keep them....what's up in the air is how visible I will let them stay. I don't want to do any repair work to the chips that would block the dye. I'll carve and sand the scoops a little larger and try to get past them. What ever is left will get dyed and then filled to smooth them out....then covered with knobs and forgotten. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I used to get tear out like that with the drill press. Its not a disaster. I usualy got it when the drill was only going about 1700 rpm, & Id try drive the bit into the timber too hard/fast. Just go slower on the lever when driving the bit & make sure the drill head is going at its max possible speed, Sorts it out no problem. But then the other fix is to stain the recesses black, use a mad polished finish that glows like a radioactive diamond, & big Vol/Tone knobs like a Gibson. Hides it very well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I use a 12mm dome-shaped bit in conjunction with the router pattern ring and a circular template (just a large hole bored in a piece of plexiglass). The shape of the hollow ends up more like a flattened dish rather than a hemisphere, but you don't have to worry so much about low RPM leading to tearout at the sides. Going to be a sweet looking instrument Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 The recesses are pretty much sorted now.....elbow grease and 60 grit cured it. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Where do you get this "Elbow grease" stuff. I have tried everywhere & nobody stocks it It does seem to work wonders in all sorts of places, I simply must find a drum of it somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Where do you get this "Elbow grease" stuff. I have tried everywhere & nobody stocks it It does seem to work wonders in all sorts of places, I simply must find a drum of it somewhere I never could find any for sale either. Sometimes you can find some for hire, but the quality is always suspect. Once in a while someone will offer you some for free, and oddly enough that stuff is often pretty good. But you have to make the really good stuff yourself. Nothing else for it. I always make up extra and store it in my shop fridge-right next to the beer. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Its in Isle 2.5 next to the skyhooks, board stretchers, glass hammers, rubber nails, and headlight fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 Wow, I had forgotten about headlight fluid. The last time I used that I discovered my headlights had a leak. The fluid leaked out and killed my grass....and my headlights started squeeking again...only louder this time. Woke my folks up when I was sneaking back home just before dawn. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 I keep mine with my tartan paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 I never had any tartan paint, but I did have paisley in a rattle can that was good for painting silk ties...... Made my control cavity cover; missed the grain direction a little bit. I have to countersink the screw holes deep so it will survive the carve. These screws are temporary till I get some proper black ones. Using the angle grinder to carve the back is scaring me to death with this Spanish Cedar. It is so soft it cuts really fast. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 On to carving the neck to body transition. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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