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Project S9 Continued...


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Gold hardware has its place. While i certainly don't like a Jackson Randy Rhoads with gold hardware, with black hardware it is one of my favourite guitars.

But a Les Paul Custom HAS to have gold hardware IMHO.

Some PRS look fantastic with gold hardware as well, but that's about it.

I like black hardware. Chrome can be a little blingy and look cheap in the wrong guitar.

I agree. A real RR (concord body shape) has to have gold (most of it was polished brass) hardware. A full on Zack WYlde LP has to have gold hardware. I don't build those types of guitars. No Replicas. (Except for personal builds... not for customers)

Chrome hardware on a solid wenge guitar is awesome. I like chrome on dark guitars. Chrome is durable. Chrome is usually bullet proof. Nickel on the other hand not so much. But I like nickel for its vintage feel...

All power to you. Don't understand the gold bit though. This shouldn't affect your fundamental build styles or choices.

It started as a joke between a friend and I. Now I have made it real... I am just not a fan.

Gold hardware belongs on 3 pickup Black Gibson LPs. Not super strats.

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You got lucky. My oldman is missing that finger on his fret hand from a bandsaw accident.

Its the one tool in the shop that im truly afraid of, & I rekon a healthy fear of the thing is good to help keep me in one big chubby piece.

I am deathly afraid of the Radial arm saw and Table Router. I try to be deathly afraid of all my tools so that I respect them for what they are.

The bandsaw will hurt you when you least expect it. It was early on Saturday and I hadn't even finished my first cup of coffee.

Autopilot and Power tools are not a good mix.

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Just proves that even guys that know better can't go on auto pilot without risk......+1 to the finger nail dust and epoxy.

SR

I think you need that vacation dude.

sr

I am basically on vacation now. I have 5 guitars in finishing. All the pickups are ready for winding so no more cutting. I dropped the bass humbucker while trying to put a coat of lacquer on it and cracked the top... had to make a new one. But basically that is it for the tools.

When these are done I get a month of no guitar work.

When I come back I will have a renewed focus.

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That burl does not suck even a little bit.

(It's killer!)

I love the carve on the Redstar II... and the finish too for that part. The cavity cover puts me in the mind of old leather maybe on cordovan. The whole look puts me in mind of an old men's club with dark wood, hunter green overstuffed leather chairs, cigars and whiskey.

That's a really classy look.

Fingernails cut.

The traditional way, I presume?

SR

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SR you will be happy to know that the Epoxy soaked top worked as planned. I was able to get it sanded to almost mirror like shine without any finish on it. Now on the corners it changed color a bit so I am going to put a finish on it after all. But if I had more time to experiment I would just coat it again with epoxy.

I am pretty sure that had I took it to the buffer it would not have needed a finish at all.

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As for Redstar II. It looks way better in person. It looks black until you turn it then you see the red. It took the better part of an hour and 1/4 of a bottle of Everclear to get the dye right. I had to keep adding and removing and at one point dry brush it to get the effect right. I wanted a vintage worn look without it being a relic.

The finish was behlens teak oil and 2 final coats of Semi-clear minwax poly after the Teak oil cured for a week. Since it is a prototype I need it sealed really well as plenty of grubby hands will touch it at shows and what not.

The minwax poly looks great and is easy to spray but it attracts dust and lint like a super magnet. You would have to have a clean room to do a customers guitar with it. This one came out great but I got lucky.

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SR you will be happy to know that the Epoxy soaked top worked as planned. I was able to get it sanded to almost mirror like shine without any finish on it. Now on the corners it changed color a bit so I am going to put a finish on it after all. But if I had more time to experiment I would just coat it again with epoxy.

I am pretty sure that had I took it to the buffer it would not have needed a finish at all.

Why did the corners change color? What corners? The other day I got a job request to put 1/8" round corners on a 16" diameter circle.... :blink: .... so I'm keeping my eye out for corners. Apparently corners exist in places I never realized.

I would expect that any old color of dye would look right after a quarter bottle of everclear in less than an hour.

SR

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